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Kickstarter Edition: Full rebuild help

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by SPyKER, Mar 27, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, which extruder are you running?
     
  2. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    E3D V6, pre sock. Has a little fan blowing on the extruder fins, but nothing on the printer parts area.

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Printed in out (rough but functional) and got a new parts fan wired up. I had the hot end and other wires coming out of the front, so I got those turned around as well. It printed another calibration cube out PERFECTLY!

    So I will print out a better copy of the fan bracket, then start on y-axis replacement parts. Was going to print out the parts for a TUSH spool holder, but Home Depot wants $6 a bearing, and I can buy the whole thing ready-made on Amazon for $17

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
     
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  5. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    The soon-to-be new home for the rebuilt Robo 3D R1 Beta. [​IMG]

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
     
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  6. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Latest update: Something went wrong.

    After moving it to it's new home, I tried printing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1941521, a dual cooling fan using a directed air ring. IT printed okay, but I had too much support, and it was too strong, so I broke the print while trying to remove the support. Tried to reprint it and it stopped extruding part way. I stopped, removed the filament, and wire-cleaned out the nozzle. Tried a calibration cube, and partway through, it also started to stop extruding. I tried to adjust the springed screws on the extruder, and one popped out and I am still looking for the washer. So, I kinda feel like I'm back to square one, where I'm not getting anything printing out correctly. I'll find the washer and get that setup reinstalled.

    Ordered the bigger 40mm x 20mm fans, knowing that they height would be restricted unless I printed cover risers or took the top off. I also got in 6 linear bearings, since I think I lost a bearing in one of the z-axis bearings, and want to replace the drawer slides. And got 8 608 ABEC 9 bearings for any future interesting prints.

    Can't afford S3D yet, and about I get better prints out of Matter Control than 3DPrinterOS, so might try Cura soon. I just want to print decent prints with this thing. If I had a few good months without big emergency purchases, I might be able to buy a Mono, but that's months out right now. Rent is about to go up $200 and my son gets his license, so there's another $125 a month gone. Does it ever end?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The reason I started using Simplify3D.
    I wish they had a cheaper license, but it is a lifetime license (two machines) so that helps a bit.


    You still using the stock J-head on that printer?
     
  8. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    I'm on a E3D V6 I bought and installed about two years ago when people said that my problems might be stemming from the original hot end.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, two things :

    1) make darn certain that the fan on the hotend itself (the one attached to the finned section) is always on when the extruder is hot. If it is not running or running full speed tou will be clog/jam city.
    2) Season that hotend or add an oiler when using PLA
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The old J-Head did not need a cooling fan for the hotend itself (but had lots of other limitations) however the small all-metal units like hexagon, E3D, Prometeus, etc. all need that cooling fan to work properly. Not talking about the parts fan, but the one attached directly to the extruder itself.
     
  11. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    The fan is on 100% at power on.It's the one that came with it, with the clear blue mount.

    I have to get it running again to print an oiler.

    I wanted to print a spool holder for the top since the side one doesn't work, but that will have to wait, just like the parts fan upgrade, and bed replacement parts. I might go through 3D Hubs to see if our local 3D printing Meetup host can print some parts reasonably for me to pick un at the meeting Wednesday.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    But you can season it without an oiler.
    The oiler just prevents having to reseason periodically
     
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  13. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    How best can I clean it without Nylon?

    Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the

    That is a general guide and not specific to the Robo, but the Atomic Pull is the easiest way to declog one.
    Short of that you remove the brass nozzle :) (has to be unseated hot) and then remember to seat it back hot while reinstalling.
     
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  15. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    So, I finally found some time this week to remove and clean out the nozzle. I have concluded that it is not the problem. Now, for some reason, I can see that the drive part of the extruder is not pushing the filament. I've resat it multiple times, tried multiple different spring settings, and nothing but me pushing on it seems to make is pull consistently.

    Is there a replacement setup I can buy (since I can't print) that will work with the E3D V6? As long as I'm placing an order, I might as well buy the rods for the y-axis replacement (length recommendations?). Thinking about a better thermistor, so maybe the upgrade kit for the cartridge thermistor and block. Also interested in figuring out what I have to change for auto or mesh leveling.

    Talked with my wife, and until we return from vacation, the only one of may things extra that I can fund is the Maslow CNC I'm in line to buy after the Kickstarters get theirs. After vacation in June, Simplify3D is on the list, then likely a MP Select Mini V2 around October for the B-Day. I'll be glad when all these past medical bills and such are all paid off, then I can go back to regular toy,err, hobby purchases.
     
  16. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Did they ever get the Z-axis figured out on that? Last I looked it was still X/Y only and you had to put in pauses and adjust Z yourself.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Upgrade that heater core to a 40w -- cheap and will help the E3D maintain heat better with all your fans.
     
  18. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Yup. They have it shipping now to the beta testers, and available for add-on to the backer rewards.
     
  19. SPyKER

    SPyKER Active Member

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    Where do I get that from? And I only have the two fans so far, the one on the E3D and the little parts fan. I thought I bought a better hobbled bolt years ago but can't find it. But it didn't look clogged.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The E3D comes with a 25w core. Any extraneous air flow can dip the temperature of that hotend.
    If you boost it to a 40w heater you need a veritable storm :)

    Temperature fluctuations can give you extrusion variations.
     

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