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KTMDirtFace's Robo3d

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by KTMDirtFace, May 19, 2015.

  1. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Decided to get a second 3d printer I currently have a Replicator2 modified with bottleworks aluminum arms and heated build platform and full enclosure. Watched ROBO 3d videos for hours the other night and Amazon Prime got me again! Robo will be here tomorrow. I also got this LCD for it.
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYS5ELE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Right now I'm printing some spool holders from thingiverse for the Robo3d on my replicator while I wait.

    Will be printing a LCD case for the robo as well.

    Sorry my pictures are not from a Robo3d print yet!.. tomorrow.

    My Replicator2 is pretty much dialed for PLA and I get tired of changing back and fourth. Im probably going to print ABS with the robo 3d as it looks like its nozzle cooling system stock is subpar for PLA anyway? ( if one exists I didn't see one but saw ducts on thingiverse )


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  2. Droid

    Droid Member

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  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Cool thanks i'll print those too.

    Also there is a newer version of the one I posted a picture of that is longer..currently printing it.
     
  4. Droid

    Droid Member

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    the one I linked, the holes need to be opened up to fit a 5/16" threaded rod if you use the spool adapters I linked, what I don't like about the ones your printing is that it drags the filament across the end of the housing unless you have a guide or oiler on top, even then it puts a good bend in the filament as its feeding it. the one I linked is offset to give the filament a straight shot down.
     
  5. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Oh yea gotcha thanks.

    Whats the best nozzle fan duct for it for PLA? I don't think it has one stock?

    This one looks good? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:697200

    I watched his video on youtube on it.
     
  6. Droid

    Droid Member

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    that one is designed for use with a E3D hotend. the rodo comes with a hexagon hotend, it looks like it will work though. I can find the one file for the one I have now but its going to come off soon cause Ill be upgrading to a 50mm fan
     
  7. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Arrived during lunch, yanked it out of the box and put it in its new home it fits! thought I was going to have to re-mount my tv. Havn't had time to mess with it yet. Seems to have the ribbon cable on the back and the support holes in the plastic frame.

    [​IMG]

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  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Apparently my Robo came broken from the factory. If I can find an STL file for this little part i'll print one on my Replicator 2 to fix it. Edit: found one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:396823

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    #8 KTMDirtFace, May 20, 2015
    Last edited: May 20, 2015
  9. Droid

    Droid Member

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  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Fixed that but then the X axis stop switch is un hittable... same with the Y.

    I fixed the X.. see my troubleshooting thread http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/new-robo3d-r1.5524/

    haven't fixed the Y.. threw my first print down on it. happy with the sidewalls and whatnot looks good. I just made a 20x20x20 cube and threw it in the stock software to make sure i could print anything. X and Y are fine Z is 1.5-2mm short. I think the fix is to update my firmware so onto the next nonsense fix i should not have had to do...anyway if I was new to 3d printing i would have sent this thing back by now. Do they test anything before boxing it up?
     
  11. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I'm glad i'm not a 3d printing noob. Anyway after fixing the broken part with my other printer, and then fixing the x axis stop.. ( y axis stop still does not get hit ). I printed a cube 20x20x20.. but it came out 20x20x18.5. So I downloaded arduino and flashed the 8mm firmware reprinted my cube. All good now..other than Z first layer height and crappy top layer but I'm not worried about those as that was with the matter control default which I will never use again..just used it to print a first couple tests. I will be using Simplify3d and LCD/Card reader.

    First prints came out fine honestly I'm totally happy with the way the layers look and nothing whacky going on here.

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Lookin good. That rep2 looks a lot like what I've got going on.

    Have you ever tried printing ABS on it? Everytime I try it prints exceptionally bad and I'm kinda stumped on why.
     
  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Yea it prints ABS great. I just use the default settings in Simplify3d for ABS and Replicator2 with Heated build plate. print at 100 bed heat and I forget what nozzle heat..whatever is default. I use gluestick on the glass. Though I think for the pi case I had kapkon tape on it..but it fell off after that or I tore it so i just print onto glue stick.

    I printed this raspberry pi case in ABS on it. sorry for blurry pics.. my camera really blows at taking macro shots.
    [​IMG]

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    Gonna try printing a LCD case for the Robo3d tonight on the robo3d. with ABS
     
    #13 KTMDirtFace, May 21, 2015
    Last edited: May 21, 2015
  14. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Well its been a little bit of a challenge with the broken or incorrectly installed parts on this but I think i have it working now. There was a wire not correctly installed on the power supply I noticed when I was installing my LCD.

    Anyway LCD installed and operational.. going to print a case for it tonight.
    [​IMG]

    I switched to a diffrent spool holder..wasn't sure how they intended this to work so i bought a threaded rod and some nuts at the hardware store. Seems to work fine.
    [​IMG]

    Back in its home next to old reliable Rep2. Hopefully ready to print now.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    First real successful print. This is ABS 0.2mm layers. came out spot on in x y and z. 20mm each. was not very stuck to the bed so i'm afraid a larger print may struggle. But i have BuildTak to put on and try next as soon as I figure out how to get simplify3d to run my bedleveling script, THEN wait to heat the nozzle, then print. I can probably modify the G-Code manually but that will be annoying every time.

    Top
    [​IMG]

    Bottom ( one corner slightly curled up Im not sure if that happend during print or because i used the paint scraper when it was still warm )

    [​IMG]
     
  16. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    BuildTak installed.

    I had to write some startup code to prevent it from auto leveling with a hot nozzle.

    I did re-do the paper test to find my z-offset and i made it .1mm higher than i would without the BuildTak. so its at -0.9 mm now.

    Came out awesome hopefully it comes off the bed this is printed in ABS and it stuck perfectly with 80deg bed heat.

    I ended up with a couple bubbles in my buildTak ..i tried to peel it from one side and scrape it down but the last bit i just let it go and got a bubble oops..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Going to try printing a case for my LCD screen next now that its all working!


    EDIT: just went to take the cube off.. HOLY CRAP is it stuck.. that was really hard to get it off. gonna raise my z offset because that was really hard to remove. Awesome!
     
    #16 KTMDirtFace, May 22, 2015
    Last edited: May 23, 2015
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  17. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Well my previous script didn't quite work. If you run G28 After running build level script it blows out the build level adjustments and makes no z tweaks to account for build leveling I changed to this and its working.

    Code:
    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    M565 Z-0.8 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
    G29 ; run auto-level
    
    ; This set of code is so that it autolevels before heating so that the BuildTek surface is not damaged
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm so it doesnt rest on the BuildTek while heating.
    M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; Set Bed Temperature
    M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; Wait for Bed Temperature
    M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature .
    M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait for temp
    M117 Printing... ;Put printing message on LCD screen
    
    EDIT: Updated my script code so that it uses the heat settings from simplify3d and wasn't hard coded.. also put a printing message onto the LCD once it starts printing.
     
    #17 KTMDirtFace, May 22, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2015
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  18. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    First real print its still going but its coming out great..its the front side of an LCD cover I found on thingiverse. Im a BuildTak fan now.

    [​IMG]

    There is a small peel/ curl up on the front left..even buildTak cannot handle ABS although its doing WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAY better than anything else.
     
    #18 KTMDirtFace, May 23, 2015
    Last edited: May 23, 2015
  19. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good work.
    Yes, ABS is really difficult on this printer (lack of a heated chamber to help control the model temp is the key).
    On the bright side there are a lot of alternative materials these days :)
     
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