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Less than one month and Robo 3D R1+ stopped printing

Discussion in 'United States of America' started by Richard Shank, Sep 13, 2016.

  1. Richard Shank

    Richard Shank New Member

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    I changed spools and the extruder won't print at all. Things were getting messy (cobwebs from the print head) before I changed spools but it was still printing fine. Still using PLA. I think the head is clogged but I haven't got a clue how to unclog it. I looked on-line and found a lot of instructions but I think I need to take this head apart and clean it. Pushing wire into the nozzle while at 245C didn't help.

    Does anyone have instructions for taking this nozzle apart?

    Also, I have a bone to pick. Following someone else's instructions for how to disassemble this unit to clean the nozzle, I found one of the screws stripped. I played hell getting it out without damaging the case. I got clever and managed to get the screw out with no damage but I can't see any reason to put it back in. I'm assuming I can purchase some nuts to go into the unit rather than just using the plastic to hold the screws. Does Robo or anyone out there have a part number for a nut (or the specifications) so I can get the correct nut that fits both the screw and opening in the plastic without guessing and multiple attempts?

    Thanks,

    Rick
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi Rick,
    This is a user forum. None of us work for Robo. I'd suggest contacting robo3d directly with part inquiries. Which screw are you referring to and I may be able to tell you a size.

    To remove the nozzle you must be careful. The stock hotend is easily damaged and must be hot when done but you use a 7mm wrench and I think a 16mm wrench while hot hold the heater block with the large wrench use the 7mm to loosen and remove the nozzle. Clear the jam and reassemble. Final tighten of the nozzle must be done hot.

    Be careful of the wiring, it is very delicate and easily broken.

    After your done season the hotend. Pla needs an oiler

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...hotend-jam-clogs-seasoning-and-an-oiler.3564/
     
  3. Richard Shank

    Richard Shank New Member

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    Thanks Geof. The screws I'm referring to look like 10-32 flat head phillips and they hold the 'ten gallon hat" cover on to the base. They screwed these machine screws into the plastic rather than inserting nuts into the plastic slots. I'm new here or I'd be posting links and pics and stuff. Maybe next week. LOL
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I believe mine has the nuts in the slot. I'll try to remember to remove a screw tomorrow and check it out for you
     
  5. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Mine has nuts as well.. Not sure how they would screw it into just plastic. My screws are 6mm. I changed mine to thumb screws so I don't need a screwdriver to take off the top all the time
     
  6. Richard Shank

    Richard Shank New Member

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    I just measured the screws. They are 5mm in diameter and 16mm long. The could be 8-32s. I'm an electrical engineer. I'm not very familiar with hardware.

    Also, does anyone know if I need to loosen the set screw in the heater to take out the nozzle? I think I need to take my nozzle out to clean it (or replace it).

    Thanks in advance.
     
  7. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    The square part is the heater block, it screws into the extruder "Cold End" above it and a set screw is supposed to hold it in place. Mine got stripped on my first jam. The nozzle screws onto the Heater Block and doesn't have a set screw.
    You MUST remove the nozzle while hot or it will not come off and you will almost surely break something... I did.

    Once off, the nozzle can cool down and you can examine and clean it with ease. No need to take the case off for this.

    The newer Robo's have a quick release feature that allows us to remove the whole print assembly very easily. The hard part is finding the easy part. I fought with it for some time before I realized the online videos on YouTube were too old. They talk about 2 screws when ours only has one. Raise the head high enough to get a phillips screwdriver under it. the screw goes straight up and only needs to be loosened. Grab the plastic loop on the right and swing the plate out and towards the back. Might take some effort but it does come out.
    HOLD THE print head so it doesn't fall and break your glass bed.

    I suggest a towel over the build bed in case you are like me and drop tools often.

    I have yet to need to remove my case but if I did and needed a nut I'd just take the screw in question along for the ride to the hardware store and try on some assorted nuts. But I'm simple minded, who need numbers when there are drawers full of nuts to try.
     
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  8. Richard Shank

    Richard Shank New Member

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    It looks like I'm going to break mine on my first attempt too. I saw someone mention that you heat it up to "full temperature". How hot is that?

    I can't seem to find that one screw.

    If I had designed this device, I would have included a disassembly manual to show users how to disassemble it for the normal required maintenance.
     
  9. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Full temp is the same as the temp you would print at. I just heat it to 220 (a little hotter than what I print at) and I'm good.

    I had to put the printer over on it's side to discover the screw my first time. You will probably need to do the same thing your first time. It's easy to say "one the bottom of the print head assembly" but until you actually see it it's still a mystery.

    If you have access to a hand mirror or mechanic's mirror hold in flat on the print bed and look at the bottom of the print head assembly.
     
  10. Richard Shank

    Richard Shank New Member

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    Thanks Rigmarol.

    Just so people don't think I freaked out and ran off. I'm gone for a week. I'll start trying to fix this when I get back next week.

    Thanks for all the help people.
     
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