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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Kilrah, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    You just reminded me that I have rolls of LED strips just sitting in a box. So now I have something to do that is easy and won't wreck my hands or my brain. For now I will just power it off a wall wart (12V adapter).

    Nice build, thanks for sharing!
     
  2. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    If anyone finds a good adhesive that stands up to the heat in the R2 when doing ABS, please let me know. The LED strips fell off the PLA I had 3M’d them on


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Couple dabs of super glue should do it.
     
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  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    If you ever want to remove them at any time 3M Outdoor Extreme tape will work. It works on UAV and racing drones so it will work on the led strips. Almost every home improvement store will carry it.
     
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  5. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    If I were going to buy that plug for the board, what would I look for on Amazon?
     
  6. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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  7. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Same but in 2-pole... someone posted a link on the first page.
     
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  8. Beard_cula

    Beard_cula New Member

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    I just picked up a 24V Daylight White variant of LED strip, and some of the 2 pole plugs. I'll wire them up in parallel and see how it goes, probably sometime this weekend.
     
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  9. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Did you hook it up? How did it go?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  10. Seamus

    Seamus Member

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    I finally got around to doing this one.
    Thanks for the model of the curved angles, Kilrah!
    The difference is... <*ahem*> night and day.

    Instead of wiring my strips in series, I'm running mine through a switching regulator adjusted to 12 volts (11.5, actually, and I may even turn it down a bit more, to avoid swamping the camera).

    r2_lighting.jpg

    r2_lights_webcam.jpg
     
  11. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    The swamping isn't due to the amount of light but to the large amounts of black in the view. You'll have exactly the same with less light (until you go so low as to have a crappy picture again).
    Instead you want to edit ~/scripts/webcamDaemon, and dial in some negative exposure compensation to "camera_raspi_options" by adding e.g.
    " -ev -1"
    You can tune the value to your taste.

    Nice idea with the clock on the window :)
     
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  12. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Seamus - Nice job. I have some 12V LED strips and will give it a try.

    Do you have a link to the voltage regulator? Are you supplying it with 24 VDC?
     
  13. Seamus

    Seamus Member

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    This is the regulator I used:
    [link]

    I'm feeding it from the unused green "PWR IN" jack in the far back corner of the Robo board, using one of these connectors:
    [link]

    That seems to be tied directly to the power switch, so yeah, 24 volts DC in.
    I stuck a random heat sink on top of the regulator IC just to make sure it stayed cool (most likely not necessary), and stuck it to the wall of the base, in the airflow from the cooling fan down there.
    One word of warning: those adjustable regulators always seem to ship with their outputs cranked all the way up, so check and adjust your output voltage before connecting anything to it.
    I'm also going to be putting a switch inline between the power feed and the regulator, just so I'm not burning the lights all the time. I'll probably just stick that to the frame inside the door or something, to avoid drilling unnecessary holes.
     
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  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Seamus, if you use a small relay you could hook it to one of the controller board outputs and maybe control the lights via some g-code. There are a few spare digital and analog pins available on the left edge of the board in the AUX connector.
     
  15. Seamus

    Seamus Member

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    Hmmm... Maybe just have the lights running while it's actively printing - turn them on in the startup g-code, and off in the post-print. That could work. I'll have to look into that.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    All the external pins are active on the Robo controller board, I tried them when I hooked up a LCD Smart Controller to it, so you have access to those with a mosfet or scr or relay you could power a strip of LEDs or even RGB or RGBW LEDS and control them all via g-codes.

    Another option is that all GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi are enabled so you could drive it off the rPi with some additional code. Here is an OctoPrint plugin that will let you control an RGB LED Strip
    http://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/ledstripcontrol/
     
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  17. Seamus

    Seamus Member

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    Thanks - I'll have a look at it!
     
  18. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    You could even use the 2nd extruder output which already has the MOSFET and the same connector, and even vary the brightness with M42 P9 S0-255. BUT for that you need to wire in series like me to have a "native" 24V strip, the regulator wouldn't work.

    I'm occasionally using it for a fan mounted on the print head for one type of pretty crappy filament I have that gets so soft as to break on the extruder gear when it gets warm on long prints.

    20170905_153345.jpg
     
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  19. Beard_cula

    Beard_cula New Member

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    I haven't yet, I had been waiting on a replacement power supply (just came in the mail the other day) Everything's ready for it, I just have to get around to doing it still.
     
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  20. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I finally got my printer sort of working again, so I got around to doing this mod. Thanks to Kilrah for the design of the supports! I used Anderson power poles just to make connect/disconnects easy, and wired them in series like he did.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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