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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Kilrah, Jul 15, 2017.
Looks good. I'll have to try this after I complete about a dozen other un-finished projects
I love Anderson Power Poles.
I have the mounting bracket printed and installed but I only have RGB and RGBW 12 V spools here. They were purchased for other projects. I don't want to go to the trouble of configuring RGB and I don't want to waste the RGB part by using the RGBW strip. So, I guess I need to order some White only strips.
Thanks @Kilrah for this setup.
I bought a full 5 Meter roll of 24V White only LED Strip off amazon. Totally overkill. Still haven't done the mod.
@Beard_cula I have 5 m rolls of both RGB and RGBW. I planned on getting a 5 m roll of White but it is not high on my priority list.
I'm currently modifying my R2 with these light bars. Thanks a bunch to Kilrah for the curved bars and thanks to Seamus for his idea using a step down. If you haven't guessed already, I will be using a step down. I'm waiting on some JST connectors to finish it, but everything else is ready to go. I will post pics after I'm done; I just wanted to give my thanks.
p.s. just try, I know it will be hard, but try not laugh too loudly when you see my soldering job..............I suck at it, but whatever works, right?
So, I tore apart my printer today and made a few upgrades. I installed the lights, and I replaced the 6mm x- and y-axis rods, as well as the bearings. I bought some precision ground rods that work beautifully; I'm glad I bought them. I also had to change out my hotend because the original was just beat to death.
Anyways, for the lights........I followed Kilrah's and Seamus' ideas. I bought a 5m strip of lights and some step downs from amazon, and some of these JST connectors with 6" leads:
I soldered one of these onto each light strip so that I could disconnect them easily if I wanted to take the gantry off. I did NOT want to have to tear off the light strip every time I needed to do some maintenance. I dialed the step down to a little less than 12 V and it lights perfectly in my opinion. I also had some small stand-offs that fit the holes on the step down board perfectly, so I used those to mount it.
I just used some regular indoor double-sided tape to mount the strips to the printer. Here are the pics if anyone is interested:
Here's a few more pics; just some from my first print on an aluminum bed, with the LED light strip. I'm very pleased with the strip. I've always had to get a small flashlight and point it into the build volume on my parts to see how well they were doing. That's not necessary anymore. Thanks again Kilrah and Seamus!
Also, in case you are wondering, that horizontal line on the stylus holder (third image) is because the print overlapped two pieces of tape (see image below). And, yes, I did this on purpose!!
Dude's...........................I'm LOVIN' these new lights!!!
Robo.........................hint hint hint
I just got a roll of White LEDs today, will be doing this same upgrade shortly.
I took a shortcut, got a roll of white bias lights on sale from Amazon, plugged into the remaining open USB port on the raspPi. Huge difference - before that the built-in lights were pretty much worthless.
Just added the LED lighting to the R2. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Very straightforward job and it makes a big difference is usability of the R2. I did use 24 volt LEDs from Amazon. The terminal post Mark Tomlinson referenced in Post #18 are indeed the correct parts.
Just upgraded my Robo R2 as well. I can't believe it didn't come this way from the manufacturer. I opted to run the wiring/electronics separate from my printer's electronics to minimize any potential issues they may introduce. I ran the power out one of the little holes in the back of the printer next to the USB port & wired in an RF remote to control the light's on/off and brightness level. At 100% brightness I can see great when I'm standing in front of the printer, but the webcam gets over-exposed. I found that 50% brightness is the sweet spot for viewing through the webcam. Just thought I'd share my findings.
Or you can dial in some negative exposure compensation on the webcam like I did, it's mentioned somewhere in the thread.
The 24v power that you're tapping into on the main board. . . Isn't that intended to be used for the second extruder? (I guess I'm something of an eternal optimist looking forward to that). Are you guys just not planning on adding another extruder? Did robo just abandon that upgrade in hopes we'll all buy the mosaic palette?
Thanks, guys... the mods look great in all the pics!
No, that is the power INPUT which is in parallel to the DC IN jack when power switch is on. The 2nd heater output is on the outputs side and obviously controlled by a MOSFET.
And yes it can be used too if you care about switching ability.
After reading about the quirks of dual extruder setups I abandoned that idea, and yes did buy a Palette+ instead.
Ooohhh SNAP! I am made of questions right now. Maybe a new thread to talk about your experience with the palette+? Specifically about printing support material for the R2. I'm going to check if there's a thread already out there on this.
Anyone have experience with Palette+ ?
@Kilrah what was the radius you used for the LED mount, I would like to modify it and thought it would be easier to ask then to measure it.
I actually used measurements and didn't bother calculating...
Okay if your dimensions are correct the radius is 1002.5 mm, just so you know.