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Marlin Firmware Upgrade 1.1.0 RC8 & RCBugFix (For R1 & R1+PLUS)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Jun 11, 2015.

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  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I actually set mine to 1200 (20*60) and 3600 (60*60) for the X and Y. Homing and auto level are pretty fast now.
     
  2. James Harry

    James Harry Active Member

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    Good for everyone to check there's, depending on configuration. With my E3D, and particular installation of herringbone gears and cable hanger (which i think i need to change), my current settings are now:
    #define X_MAX_POS 217
    #define Y_MAX_POS 230
    #define Z_MAX_POS 210
     
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  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    FYI Warning
    If anyone is planning to attempt to use the current RCBugFix branch as of 06-MAR-2016, a commit made a few hours ago broke compilation for non Core XY/XZ printers. Until it is fixed do not try to upload the RCBugFix branch to your RoboR1.

    I am aware that the RCBugFix fixes some issues with the LCD controller only allowing Flow to be displayed regardless of the menu selection chosen during a print. There is nothing I can do about that and until they revert the changes or fix it, it will remain broken.

    It has been reported on the GITHUB repository.

    Update:
    Apparently this is now fixed, will be testing it tomorrow.
     
    #203 WheresWaldo, Mar 6, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2016
  4. stahlee

    stahlee New Member

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    Yeah, the bed size is annoying, but I haven't really tried to push the limits on print size. MBL has been great. I haven't had to touch anything with bed leveling since the day after I set it up. I have tweaked it a bit, but to be expected you just starting to use it. I love being able to start printing right away.

    M851 isn't doing anything for me at the moment. Does it work for you?
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am still using Auto-bed-leveling so M851 just works, I have other things I am addressing like changing the bed thermistor table to match the new bed heater I installed. The default bed was displaying about 5% lower than the actual temperature. The new bed was closer to 30 - 40% off. Now I have it to just a degree or two off up to about 150°C bed temps.

    The latest commits are working on my Robo so I am looking forward to another release candidate or even a gold build, hopefully sooner rather than later.
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Here is a tip if you are using this firmware, or any other firmware upgrade for the Robo.

    If you have ever used EEPROM settings note that flashing new firmware does not clear the EEPROM memory. In order to start fresh you must issue the following two commands from a terminal windows connected to your printer.
    Code:
    M502
    M500
    The first command reloads all memory settings with those listed in
    Configuration.h, the second stores all those memory settings into EEPROM. This will essentially reset to "Factory Defaults." Alternatively, if you have an LCD controller you can perform the following steps:
    1. Press the encoder knob to enter the menu system
    2. Move to the Control menu and press the encoder knob
    3. Move to Restore failsafe and press the encoder knob
    4. Press the encoder knob to re-enter the menu system
    5. Move to the Control menu and press the encoder knob
    6. Move to Store memory and press the encoder knob
    If you have any custom settings you will need to re-enter those now, Z_Offset (M851 in this version of Marlin) is a typical parameter that may need resetting and resaving in EEPROM.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @stahlee Can you test something for me on RCBugFix? I tried using Auto-Bed-leveling on yesterday's files and It would never move from bed heating to nozzle heating. When I forced it G29 was broken it never actually leveled anything. I know you are using Mesh and I assume it is working properly. So can you swap to ABL for this test and tell me what you find. The same exact gcode file works in RC3 perfectly for me.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Based on all the positive feedback from forum members about mesh leveling. The next version of Marlin 1.1.0 for the Robo will have mesh leveling enabled by default (4 x 4 grid = 16 leveling points). If you want to continue with auto bed leveling and/or you do not have an LCD controller. I will include instructions on how to change Configuration.h to return the ABL functionality. If someone would be so kind as to write up complete step by step instructions on how to perform Mesh Bed Leveling, myself and the community at large would be very grateful.
     
  9. cdsl810

    cdsl810 Member

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    Looking forward to it! The novelty of ABL has worn off for me. Mesh leveling will only improve the quality of the great prints that have been coming off my ROBO lately. I have identified a slight sag near the right center of my build plate that the ABL doesn't handle well.
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Someone take me to school.... What is mesh leveling
     
  11. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Mesh leveling is what everyone thinks Auto Bed Leveling is supposed to do.

    In reality, all Auto Bed leveling does is figure out the best plane to run on for the irregularities in your bed.

    Meanwhile, Mesh Bed Leveling is something you run once. It's a manual procedure with an LCD controller on the firmware Waldo has been posting/updating for us.

    It's really intended for printers that have a bed that only moves in the Z-axis direction, but also works really well in tests on the Robo so far.

    Basically, it probes the Z-endstop, then moves to various points on the bed and waits for you to use the LCD to raise/lower it until it is the correct "paper thickness" distance from the bed and click the LCD knob to tell it to move to the next one.

    Once finished, you send an M500 either through Octoprint or by having a GCode file on the SD card that has nothing but M500 in it to save the mesh settings to the EEPROM.

    The end result is that you just run G28 at the beginning of a program and from there the printer compensates for the actual surface of your bed.

    See this video where it's in action on another printer.



    In the case of the printer in this video, the warp in the bed when shown in an Excel table looked like this:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

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    I'm still a little new, so can someone please explain the benefit of using this firmware over what shipped with my R1+?
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Don't worry about it. Until you get familiar enough with the printer and have time to spelunk around with all the possibilities it is not worth just upgrading the firmware (and certainly not to the latest Marlin branch). This is a bit more cutting-edge :)

    Not that there is any real hazard, but unless you have a specific reason NEVER update the firmware. Most problems are not firmware problems, this thread is really for those wanting to squeeze the extra juice out of the printer.
     
  14. cdsl810

    cdsl810 Member

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    I didn't need to upgrade the firmware until I began modifying the printer. If your ROBO is stock, don't touch the firmware.
     
  15. PeterkSharma

    PeterkSharma New Member

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    Great post, just getting back on the printer lately. How buggy is the update still? Anyone willing to post a copy of their firmware up for us to read through?
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @PeterkSharma The firmware is specifically Marlin 1.1.0 and is not modified from the actual Marlin firmware. Anytime you make specific changes to firmware you create one off copies that must be maintained separately and that is not my intent on posting this for the community. The only modifications made are to configuration files (as the Marlin developers intended). I have posted those changed files up through the current release candidate which is from December 2015 (v1.1.0 - RC3). There is a newer branch (RCBugFix) but it has not been mainlined yet. When it does as in another RC or a Gold release I will post another zip with all the source files and the Robo specific configuration files. If you want to play with the RCBugFix branch on your own, you are welcome to do so and post your results, but the intent of my posts is to encourage Robo users to try the latest version mainline Marlin code.

    In my particular machine I do keep up with the RCBugFix branch but do not use it if I have real printing to get done.

    The marlin source used here is directly from the following link: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin
     
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  17. stahlee

    stahlee New Member

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    I'm also using what Waldo posted back on page7 of this thread. I made a few tweaks in the Configuration.h for what I'm doing, but the firmware remains unchanged. I'll also install the latest version after Waldo posts that zip.
     
  18. stahlee

    stahlee New Member

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    Waldo, I didn't even see this reply. Do you still need me to run some tests?
     
  19. stahlee

    stahlee New Member

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    Waldo, I posted those instructions in post #195. Do you need me to go into more detail on the process? Also, is there somewhere I can post them other than in this thread?
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Maybe just start a new thread specifically talking about MESH leveling. I think it will be very useful moving forward. The more I have been using it the more I like it and I am definitely going to enable it by default in the next Robo version of 1.1.0 that I work on.
     
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