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MatterControl sets temperature 260 ºC

Discussion in 'Software' started by Caio Mallagoli, May 27, 2018.

  1. Caio Mallagoli

    Caio Mallagoli New Member

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    Hello!

    This is my first post, my printer is a R1 from the KickStarter, and the MatterControl suddenly sets the temperature 260 ºC as the attached, i just start the program and temperature is automatically set 260 ºC no matter what o do, i tried to chance the firmware from Arduino, and do not worked, i had a issue at Z axis with this last version of firmware, if any command to up or down Z axis grater than 1 nothing happen and a noise, so i changed the firmware to a older version and it's OK, but the issue of temperature still remaining and i do not know how to fix, with this issue the hot end do not warm up because "interpret" that the temperature is it OK.

    Capturar.PNG

    Please could you help me to fix that?

    How the best way to put a video here? I can do one to show the problem of the firmware issue.

    Thanks in advanced.

    Best regards.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If this is specific to mattercontrol then the firmware won't help however looking at your picture this is not mattercontrol setting the temperature to 260, that is what your thermistor is reading. So ... bad thermistor or bad connection to the thermistor is the most likely issue.

    The Robo you have does NOT have any recent firmware so trying to update it to something recent is not going to be straight forward. Let me know specifically what version you are trying to install and WHY and I can help you with that too.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Post the videos on another site (like youtube) and then post a link to them here
     
  4. Caio Mallagoli

    Caio Mallagoli New Member

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    How can i try to fix or substitute this sensor? If i can't fix where can i buy a new one to replace?

    Thanks for the fast answer
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Do you have the original J-Head for that printer or have you swapped hotends to something newer?

    This video shows how to do it on the hexagon, if you have the old style J-Head then it is slightly different. Might be worth just switching to a hexagon hotend :)

     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The newer hexagons use a canister style thermsitor too which is a bit more rugged than the older style.
     
  7. Caio Mallagoli

    Caio Mallagoli New Member

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    I have the original old one, do you thing thar is better change the hotend?

    where can i buy theses items to fix and/or upgrade?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is probably just as much work to change the hotend as it is to change just the thermistor.

    Robo has them cheapest:

    https://robo3d.com/collections/parts/products/hexagon-hotend-full

    You will need to splice in the two wires (the pair for the heater core and the pair for the thermistor) into your existing ones because your harness will not have the connectors.

    I am not sure I remember the exact style of the thermistor for the old J-Head. If you really want to go that route I can dig into it.
     
  9. Caio Mallagoli

    Caio Mallagoli New Member

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    There is another way to check/test the thermistor before buy a new one?

    What is the advantages to change for this new hotend? i am new at 3d printing and i do not know the differences or which one is better or what change.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well the old J-Head is limited to PLA and 'just' barely ABS since it can get to 235c.
    An All metal hotend will be able to print all filament types.
    Granted, that may not matter if you are fine with what you have.

    The only way to test the thermistor would be to swap the hotend thermistor and the heated bed thermistor connections on the RAMPS board. If the heated bed is now reading 260c and the hotend reads room temperature in the software you are using (MatterControl) then you know the thermistor is bad. If the hotend still reads 260c then it must be the RAMPS board or Arduino board that has failed.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Here is a picture of the connections on the standard RAMPS board.
    You would be swapping T0 and T1

    ramps1-4connectors.png
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Once you finish testing be sure the swap them back :)

    and (of course) do all of the swapping of connections with the power removed.
     
  13. Caio Mallagoli

    Caio Mallagoli New Member

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    thanks! i will spend some days dealing with this, then i give you a feedback! thanks again for your time!


    best regards
     
  14. Caio Mallagoli

    Caio Mallagoli New Member

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    Hi, i'm back, i checked all and than my thermistor is gone, do you have the technical information of the 100 Kohm thermistor ?
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I do not know what thermistor was on the old j-head hotend. You can use anything if you are willing to update the firmware.
    You can try an EPCOS (that may be what the J-Head used).
    Look for

    #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1

    In configuration.h
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    EPCOS (type 1) and SEMITEC (type 5) are the two most common thermsitor types.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you dig around Amazon and eBay there are other alternatives, the down-side to most I saw on Amazon was that they did not usually specify that they were in fact EPCOS thermistors :) You need to know what type they are so that the correct calibration curves are used
     
  19. Caio Mallagoli

    Caio Mallagoli New Member

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    i attached some pictures about my printer to confirm the thermistor.
    01.jpeg 02.jpeg 03.jpeg

    So the thermistor is a class J ?
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have no idea what class it is :) But that is the thermistor

    The hot-end you have is a J-Head style, but the thermistor is as far as I know just an NTC 100k thermsitor. Which manufacturer matters (EPCOS/SEMITEC/etc) so that Marlin uses the correct calibration curves provided by each manufacturer.

    As far as I know the betas all used 100k NTC EPCOS style thermistors.
     

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