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Maximum layer thickness

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Eric Viglotti, Feb 17, 2017.

  1. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

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    I am using Cura with settings I got from Konrad and it's set to 0.2 as the default layer thickness for normal prints which is a good tradeoff between quality and speed.

    I have some stuff I want to print quicker and with less accuracy as it's more about getting volume done than looking pretty.

    What is the maximum layer thickness you can pick? It seems like I can do 0.3mm, but past that the box is yellow and won't let me enter it.

    Thanks!
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Layer height (by rule of thumb) should be 30%-70% of the nozzle diameter.
    You can set it to whatever you like, but best results will be in that range.

    A volcano adapter with say 1.2mm nozzle allows for really awesome layer sizes :)
     
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  3. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

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    If I do want to move up to the 1.2mm nozzle:

    Do you know if there are instructions somewhere on how to replace a nozzle? Would I need a volcano hot end or can I use the robo hot end?

    Any downside to this big 1.2mm nozzle, I assume it does terrible for more fine, detailed work, meaning it's not like a 1.2mm nozzle gets the best of both worlds right?

    Thanks so much!
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    1.2 you lose detail but gain incredible print times, great for function over form. 15 nozzle tons of detail great for small items or high details but insane print time. You can get a .4 nozzle for a volcano and get good quality and a little quicker print time.

    You'll need an E3D, the robo hotend won't accept it but you can get a .8 e3d nozzle and put it on the hotend you have and gain some speed.
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Think of it as a trade off. More plastic faster less detail or less plastic slower but details
     
  6. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

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    Thanks much. Do I just look on Amazon or somewhere for a volcano hot end and how do I know its connectors will match the robo? Or do I email help@robo for this? I just don't know since E3D may not know about robo and vice versa.

    Thanks!
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    mark tomlinson likes this.
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The volcano is important because if you take a standard hotend (which has a melt zone of about 1/4") you can use large nozzles but you MUST print slower or you will exhaust the nozzle of plastic and get crappy prints. The Volcano has 3/4" of melt zone and you motors can not move fast enough to run that out of plastic.

    So if you want to print large nozzle fast get the volcano kit with an E3D. If you just want a larger nozzle you can get them anywhere (@Printed Solid has them too) but remember to slow down your print speed a bit.
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    .8 mm nozzle on my standard e3d 30-40mm/s... .4 nozzle 60-80

    That kind of slow or more.

    Volcano...60 mm/s 1mm nozzle
     
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is ironic because if you lower the nozzle size a lot you end up with the same effect --> you have to slow down the print speed, but for completely different reasons. Isn't 3D printing so straight-forward :) Clear as mud...
     
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  11. Eric Viglotti

    Eric Viglotti Member

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    All great suggestions, thank you so much. I have replaced the Robo R1+ stock hot end with a replacement from robo directly and that was easy. However, replacing with anything other than the stock Robo R1+ hot end seems to be pretty complicated so maybe I'll wait until I get my R2 and I have my R1+ as a backup where I can afford to be down while I mess around with this :)

    Thanks!
     

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