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Messy layers

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Michael DiFilippo, Jul 16, 2013.

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  1. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Not really sure what to call this, but I have tried altering temps, speeds, fan on / fan off. This should be 100% fill and it ends up getting stringy in areas and not smooth flat like it should be. Any ideas? This print is PLA.
    image.jpeg
     
    #1 Michael DiFilippo, Jul 16, 2013
  2. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    You need a better camera o_O
     
    #2 Seshan, Jul 16, 2013
  3. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    haha I did take it in mid print on my phone but that really is how it looks
     
    #3 Michael DiFilippo, Jul 16, 2013
  4. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Isn't that ironic : )

    Michael, I saw a lot of prints like that with my ultimaker. I bought it used, so who knows what it went through before I got it. There were a number of issues, but I *think* the one that was the root cause had to do with some foreign material or a bur that was stuck in the nozzle.

    Did it start looking like this after you ran the laybrick?

    The other possible cause for me was filament slipping. Is your hobbed bolt tight? Have you cleaned out the hob lately?
     
    #4 Printed Solid, Jul 16, 2013
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  5. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    This is after the laybrick but I don't know that it was 100% okay prior to that. Maybe I'll try running a bunch of filament through. Also I have noticed a lot of shavings around the hobbed bolt, I think I need to get a more pronounced hobbed bolt (like cambo had pointed out). I have a new one on order so I'll see what happens after I replace it. Thanks guys!
     
    #5 Michael DiFilippo, Jul 16, 2013
  6. JDM_

    JDM_ New Member

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    I had something like this happen. It was because there was a small gap between the object and the print bed in Repiter. The g code was not correct because of it. Take a look at the object in software to ensure there is no gap.
     
    #6 JDM_, Jul 16, 2013
  7. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    Seshan...hes a pro photographer...hahahaha
     
    #7 Harry, Jul 16, 2013
  8. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    Well he should use his good camera then :p
     
    #8 Seshan, Jul 16, 2013
  9. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Approximately what layer is this in the print and is the stringy areas actually fixed to the layer beneath or are they loose
     
    #9 tesseract, Jul 16, 2013
  10. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    Hey Mike, I feel that probably you have the nozzle to high.
     
    #10 Harry, Jul 16, 2013
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  11. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    I notice it tends to happen a few layers in, say 3 or 4th layer. The stringy areas usually protrude higher, they aren't loose but if they dry and I ran my finger over them they typically break off. When I'm around later tonight I'll drop an object on and double check everything and try out a print. Thanks guys
     
    #11 Michael DiFilippo, Jul 17, 2013
  12. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Well I can see three possibilities. as Harry thinks the nozzle could be too high( or bed to low) and you may be able to see that by looking at your first layer is generally should be slightly smashed or flattened by the travel of the nozzle if it is too high then eventually this will happen. Carefully look at the first layer it should not be an circle simply on its side it should appear more like an oval on is side almost like the shape of an eye if you could see it head on. If it is too flat then that could also lead to another possibility. Here is where Cambo's z height adjustment comes in real handy simply take a look at the first layer if it is too flat or too thin you can adjust it quickly and restart with having lost a lot of material.

    Another thing is I mentioned before is if it is to low it could cause a build up around and in the which could impeed the flow of enough material to make good contact. Raising the nozzle and extruding should identify if there is a clog if so see if it can be cleared and adjust the bed height.

    The last thing I think it could be is that normally when printing the last layer to be printed still has warmth to it and when printed on will slightly reshape to accept the newest layer if the last print level got too colld it may harden to the point where it does not allow good bonding of the two layers. Are you using a fan to cool the object if so you may want to turn it lower or off for the first few layers to let some residual heat be retained.
     
    #12 tesseract, Jul 17, 2013
  13. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    did you figure out this issue? micheal

    I know you had bed leveling issues before and looks like you still do judging from the uneven layers in your photo.

    First and foremost level your bed. Then everything else will be easier to dial in.
    If you don't level the bed, your just compiling onto your problems. Its not gonna fix itself.
     
    #13 CAMBO3D, Jul 20, 2013
  14. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    haven't had any time to do anything more. I did get the bed pretty level, way more level than it had been previously. I may be able to spend some time on it this upcoming week.
     
    #14 Michael DiFilippo, Jul 21, 2013
  15. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    how did you level your bed? and what are you using to check levelness?
     
    #15 CAMBO3D, Jul 21, 2013
  16. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    using a dial indicator with a jig that I printed up and corner/spring system. Much like yours but with springs instead of the "set screw" to raise.
     
    #16 Michael DiFilippo, Jul 21, 2013
  17. CAMBO3D

    CAMBO3D New Member

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    hmm if you used a dial indicator, your bed should be fairly level and you really shouldn't be seeing what I see above. Is your x axis level?

    I leveled my bed with just a piece of regular paper, which gives me about .1mm of spacing. Using a dial indicator should be a lot more accurate.
     
    #17 CAMBO3D, Jul 21, 2013
  18. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    I have both a dial indicator and feeler gauges, ill be using the feeler gauges first then print of a bracket for the dial indicator
     
    #18 Seshan, Jul 21, 2013
  19. fabrice

    fabrice New Member

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    Hello, after you have a digital comparator, it is indispenssable for a perfect bed?
     
    #19 fabrice, Aug 5, 2013
  20. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    #20 Printed Solid, Aug 6, 2013
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