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Mods and experiences with our Robo 3D R1+ (1st Printer)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Curtis Wolfe, Feb 27, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Try another program.
    CURA may be misconfigured.

    No sense chasing hardware if it is software and vice-versa
     
  2. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Start code

    G28; (I replaced the original code with this)
    M565 Z-1.0
    G29;


    End Code[​IMG]
    M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
    M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)
    G91 ;relative positioning
    G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
    G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{speed_travel} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
    G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
    M84 ;steppers off
    G90 ;absolute positioning
     
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  3. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I'm trying Slic3r now
     
  4. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Ok, were getting somewhere. It's printing in the center of the bed anyway
     
  5. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Ok, I'm in the ball park. Playing with the Z offset.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You had the machine center set as zero in the other slicer. That is wrong. Zero is the top corner of the bed ... not the center.
    That was undoubtedly making it go whack.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    X = 0, Y = 0 is not the center :)
    Just remember that if you need to go back to the other one for some reason.

    Some cartesian printers (like the Robo) do use the center of the bed as Zero (although mostly delta printers do that).
     
  8. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Do I make the change here? G28 X0 Y0 ;move
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Marlin is programmed to not auto-level unless it knows the home of all three axes.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The start GCode should be just a G28; which homes all axes. The ending GCode would not want to do that (since you will collide with the model) but the starting GCode needs to have everything homed first.

    You should just try it from a GCode terminal.

    Issue the commands in order and see what it does:

    G28;
    M565 Z-1.0
    G29;

    Let us know.
     
  11. Jaime

    Jaime New Member

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    Learn how to level your bed. Learn how to print with pla. Learn to be patient and to tinker. Make sure all your mechanical parts are in working order. Start by printing smaller and simpler things. Understand what needs supports. The only first thing is to get rid of the spool holder. Print and print often.
     
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  12. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I'm making progress Mark, but slow.

    Slic3R has some crazy infill. Grid isn't one of them. My first layers would go down perfectly, but then it would start messing up on the infill parts. The we're attempts at a Star Destroyer. The first layers went down fine. Then "Pizza!"

    I played with different infill settings. The cubes. It would print it ok.

    upload_2017-3-19_13-11-44.png

    upload_2017-3-19_13-13-23.png
     
  13. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Frustrated I went to bed.
    The next day. I'm looking around on Thingiverse. I find a holocron file that I like. I was on my wife's computer and I still had matter Control on there from when I was trying to diagnose issues earlier. I decided to run the file through MC and send it to the SD card.

    This print was good.
    Pretty good anyway.
    upload_2017-3-19_13-15-45.png

    upload_2017-3-19_13-16-8.png
     
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  14. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Today I decided to go back to Cura and mess around. I figured out why it was printing off of the center of the bed.

    I started printing a calibration cube. It started printing in the center of the bed and looked great.

    About 1/3 through it started printing layers 5mm or so from the object. That's funny considering it did the first 15 layers or so perfectly.

    What would cause that?

    That's where I stand.
     
  15. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    OK, so I'm trying the cube in Matter Control. Sent through the SD card.

    It's printing fine, but I do see the "endstops hit Z" error on my LCD
     
  16. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    Well. It printed well until about 5 layer from the top. Then it got pretty funky.

    I was printing something pretty tall last night. I had to kill it because it was going to take too long.

    Here's a clue. I installed a 80mm fan next to the ramps board blowing air out of the case.

    Could it be that it is restricting the wires?

    Can't be those wires are connected to the motors and have very little movement allowed anyway.

    I'm printing a different model and the only thing the LCD says is "Sleep..."

    Maybe it needs to take a nap.
     
    #116 Curtis Wolfe, Mar 19, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017
  17. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I'm going backward. I can't get the simplest things to print.

    I think this Endstop hits: Z is going to be a problem

    I've checked all my wires
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    "endstops hit Z"

    Should occur when the print head is on the bed. If it is happening with the extruder in the air then you have a problem with one of the Z endstop switches (or the wiring or the RAMPS).
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can use a meter (with the printer off) to measure resistance across the switches and while doing that open and close them to see that they are mechanically working.

    If it is completing the autoleveling 9-point 'dance' correctly then they are likely working (still check both since a single switch working can make the autoleveling appear to be correct).
     
  20. Curtis Wolfe

    Curtis Wolfe Active Member

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    I'll get a meter on the switches tonight.

    It does appear to do the auto leveling correctly.

    during the tall print (an Alien egg) that a canceled the other night there was some "clicking" on the left side as the wires over there were rubbing against the Z axis screw as they were stretching out. I bet there's something going on over there.

    I've given it a visual inspection and looked inside at the ramps board to make sure there was nothing visibly disconnected.

    I shouldn't have to update the firmware after installing the LCD right?

    Thanks again
     

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