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My first project is to fix the printer itself. I am a total newb and hope someone can help me

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Pandariot779, Dec 1, 2015.

  1. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I can post mine when I get home tonight. That thread pretty much tells you all you need. The only variable you will need to change in the start code is your z offset. That will be when you get your nozzle back in place. I started with Z-1.0. The more negative the number the higher the nozzle is off the plate. So when you print your first print with the E3D, just look at the first layer and make adjustments to get the right squish. Also look at http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/visual-troubleshooting-guide.3017/ to start getting an idea of what certain issues look like on a print. Helps to be familiar with these so when you print you can know if something is wrong or not. It takes time to learn everything, but until Amazon gets your nozzle to you, I guess you have time to read. :)
     
  2. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    oh, just thought of this. While you are inspecting the printer, check for cracks on the bottom z smooth rod supports or the plastic connectors for the Y axis belt to the bed rails. They sometimes crack and can cause you issues. No worries. As long as it prints, you can get the models for new ones off of thingiverse. Let me know if you need the links to some. My robo was refurbished off of eBay from Robo's ebay storefront (Robo3dprinter). I had to kinda go over things as well to make sure she was right. For the most part, worked like a charm straight out of the box. Found some issues later, but support from folks here made it easy to find solutions and get things right.

    Also make sure your belts are tight, but not too tight. Plucking them should sound like a guitar string. Too tight will be bad and might break things.
     
  3. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Here's what I have in my start.gcode for your reference. Again the M565 command will need to be tweaked by you to get the correct offset for your machine. I set the value you need to change in bold type. Let me know if this helps. Also, I am only running Cura 15.04. The newest version was giving folks problems. So this code is only for 15.04. Not sure what changes in the newest version.

    ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
    ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
    ;Print time: {print_time}
    ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
    ;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
    ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
    ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
    G21 ;metric values
    G90 ;absolute positioning
    M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
    M107 ;start with the fan off
    ;-- Start Original Code
    ;G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
    ;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
    ;-- End Original Code
    ;-- Start Custom AutoLevel Code
    G28 ;move X/Y to min endstops
    M565 Z-1.05 ;Define a 1.0mm offset, this may need adjusting (more - means farther from bed)
    G29 ;run autolevel routine
    ;-- End Custom AutoLevel Code
    G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
    G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
    G1 F{travel_speed}
    ;--Put printing message on LCD screen
    M117 Printing...
     
  4. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    i installed my e3d and did a test print earlier today but i have another issues. i believe my nozzle is clog cause pla is being leaked out on top of the heat block. i am not sure how to fix this problem as the heat block is attached to the heat sink as tight as possible.

    i disassembled the extruder and cleaned the cool end of the extruder but am not sure how to clean the hot end of the extruder. do over heat the extruder and try running wire through the nozzle?
     
  5. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    If it's leaking over the top of the heat block, it is likely a plug and not a blockage of the nozzle. Don't bother with the wire yet.

    My guess is that you have the nozzle tightened directly against the heat block rather than leaving a little gap. It's critical to leave this little gap to ensure that you have the nozzle tightened against the heat break (the tube) inside of the heat block. If you don't do this, then it is likely that there will be enough of a gap between the heat break and the nozzle for filament to leak out and flow up and over the top of the heater block as you've seen. Take a look at the assembly pictures in this post for examples of how you should have a gap. http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...ormation-installation-guides-and-review.3407/
     
  6. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    Thanks! loosening the nozzle tip by a mm help loads!

    but now i have another problem. the plastic in my printer burns and causes the printed material to brown. What should i do to eliminate browning?

    Thanks
     

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  7. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    What temp and speed are you using? Shouldn't be burning. Are you using PLA/ABS/exotic?
     
  8. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    Im using pla. Speed 60m/s. My thermister may be reading incorrectly. Lol the glas doesnt fit the hole in the heater block so i jist stuck the thermister into where the screw hole is
     
  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I must say creative, but that is just not going to work I think. I've never installed one, so can't tell you for sure how to get the stock thermistor to work as intended. I do know that others have purchased this little gem http://printedsolid.com/collections/accessories-and-upgrades/products/screw-on-m3-stud-thermistor to use in its place because of issues installing.

    Post some pics to give us a better idea of how you are installing the therm where it won't fit. I'm sure others will be able to see what might be wrong that have done this upgrade already.

    You are probably printing way hotter than you are telling it because the thermistor isn't reading from where it should. I asked about the speed because sometimes printing way slow can cause marks as well at normal printing temps. I see this in white filament at times. Just for future reference. Also, the faster you go might require a bit more heat to get things to melt fast enough to keep up.

    Sounds like you are close for sure. Lets get this thermistor installed correctly and you will be in business.
     
  10. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    the burning situation is fixed, just dont use the stock thermister lol its a little loose when i installed it in the screw hole so i just brought a new themister from e3d. it is now printing like a charm and I will start creating cosplay parts fro friends :) yay


    I also finished a job interview at Printrbot labs yesterday. hopefully i get the job, itll be awesome working for a lab creating printers.
     
  11. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    That's pretty cool. I hope you didn't lead with the fact your first printer was a ROBO and not a printrbot. LOL! My dad has a printrbot simple wood kit that he put together and has done a few upgrades with. He likes it, but really liked seeing my ROBO when he was in town for Thanksgiving. Good luck with the job search. Hopefully the return with a nice offer. I'd love to go to work each day and play with printers.
     
  12. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    i have a new problem now.... >.< my z axis wont home and my z axix stop switches are installed correctly.

    I am not sure why but my printer is printing in the air rather than on the bed. when i manually move my z axis it will go up and down but when i manually call the printer to home on the z axis it goes up then down a little without touching the heating bed.


    I am wondering what could be the problem.

    this happened after i installed the z axis lead screw kit.
     
  13. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    got a pic or video of it? Might be a loose wire or something, but also could be a number of other things. does it even touch the plate at all when homing and autolevel? I take it you did upgrade to the firmware needed for the new screws?
     
  14. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    yea i did, i upgraded the firmware. and no it does not hit the hot plate when it is homing. do notice however that the hexnut is very tight on one side of the printer and not as tight on the other
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Please report the results of M119
     
  16. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    < x_min: open
    < y_min: open
    < z_min: TRIGGERED

    after i press home:

    < Reporting endstop status
    < x_min: open
    < y_min: TRIGGERED
    < z_min: TRIGGERED
     
  17. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    so one of your endstops are not engaged or tight against the x axis ends. the robo is thinking that it is already triggered when homing, or autolevel so it just "climbs the stairs". Make sure they are both tight up against the x ends and the endstop brackets are properly secured. Finally, use your hands and test moving one side of the x axis up and see if it comes down on its own or if it sticks up. I have my suspicions about the new endstop brackets with the wing that wraps around the x ends. If they are twisted just right, they could interfere with the x axis freely moving up and down. Since you were underneath with the wiring on the RAMPS, make a quick check to make sure the z endstop wiring is secured to the board and that both endstops have their wiring secured. They can easily slide off off or not make proper contact. Report back if those bits are all good. We can go from there.
     
  18. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    ahhh learn something new each day!

    z should be triggered. i disconnected the left end stop and and fixed the problem
    thanks!
     
  19. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    ponderous solution. z should not be triggered until the nozzle pushes off the bed. the logic should be reversed in your firmware so that when the endstop is engaged or pressed in, it should read open. once the x axis end lifts off the endstop from the nozzle pushing into the bed, that is when it should read triggered. at least that is how i understand it. not sure you want one side unplugged as a solution if i read your last post correctly.
     
  20. Pandariot779

    Pandariot779 Member

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    i had to. lol also there is no wriggle room for the carriage to move off of the left end stop
     

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