* The blade switch in the run-out sensor never really worked. Haven't seen some of the replacements. I would suggest a part-in-bag upgrade as an option to replace/upgrade something like this. * The location of the C2's single filament spool holder is too high, leading to cross-over spooling problems. I would suggest lowering the spindle hole as low as possible on the back. Secondly, the way the holder fits in the hole is problematic, leading to drop-outs during a job with a full KG spool. I would suggest a re-design of the spindle itself to lower spool friction and to fit more snugly without spinning in the hole. * The default settings for Cura, as suppled, are far from what really works consistently for this printer. I would suggest that some time be put into bringing this closer to a functional point for beginners. Examples would be hole accuracy when z-oriented, first-layer thickness, first layers speed, etc. * In my mind, the cantilevered bed is too wobbly. It appears to be related to ringing in tall parts especially those toward the front. I'd suggest any improvements designed to tighten up the diving board effect from back-to-front. This might be as simple as a re-design on the aluminum cutouts or increasing the thickness of it. my mod on that * It sounds like if anyone attempts to use a print bed surface other than black tape or the black BuildTak, they risk drilling a hot extruder into their plastic bed due to the IR reflectivity behavior with blue tape as possibly combined with G29. I would suggest a new wizard on the LCD menu to "Show Z-offset" which would cool the hotend and progressively move down in steps while indicating "Z0 + 10mm", "Z0 + 9mm", etc. And then, finally, it would demonstrate what it believes is Z0 and you could accept this. Maybe it needs to repeat for the nine test points. (Anyone in the CNC world is familiar with this since you need to visually confirm Z0 before potentially ruining your project safety board.) What's frustrating is to go through all the motions to set z-offset and then drilling a hotend because of this "other" behavior that's somehow factored in like "including the bed-leveling offsets". * It is suggested and somewhat tested that the C2 works fine on a 24V power adapter and due to PID, the existing hotend works as expected without any modifications. It would be good to have a replacement 1500W 24V adapter available for sale by Robo as an upgrade. * It would be nice to add a second extruder, of course. I would suggest that Robo consider a parts-in-bag upgrade for things like this. * The webcam add-on is nice to have and low-hanging fruit for any would-be hacker. I would suggest that Robo consider a parts-in-bag upgrade for things like this. * Although I've not run into this myself, others have complained about hotend overheating on other filaments. I would suggest an airflow inside the hotend cowel which isn't so boxy. * Reviewing the image that's on the microSD, their appears to be code which isn't part of the build. Since a 4GB card is default in the printer and there doesn't appear to be much which cleans up old log files and statistics, this seems to be getting close to filling up that size. I would suggest that Robo could clean up the image to drop some of the unnecessary weight. If I'm guessing correctly, there's OctoPrint, OctoPi and Robo's version all on the same card.