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My New Printer

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by WheresWaldo, May 22, 2015.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    After numerous clogs and rough filament feeding with the Hexagon, I decided my next purchase/upgrade will be an E3Dv6. Why on earth did the Hexagon guys make the bore only 1.85 mm. Any expansion of the filament while heating could cause it to jam or at least be difficult to feed. At the very least it should have been 2 mm. Live and learn.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The Hex was a good (but not great) attempt to make a good small all metal hotend cheaply. They succeeded 100% on one of those goals, a bit less on others :)
     
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  3. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Plus the heat break not being easily removed sucks too. That was a huge reason why I went to the E3dv6. It easy to disassemble if you have a clog or whatever.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Got my cheap (under $10 w/coupon) Full Graphics LCD display yesterday. Banggood ships much faster than they used to in the past. Now printing a case for it. Finally will be able to untether it from a PC. Next up is E3Dv6, then Raspberry Pi2 + OctoPi to put it on my LAN.
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Roger on the LCD, decent and cheap upgrade (likewise the E3D).
    I was not really thrilled with the OctoPi and chose to just use a PC, but you may like it.
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    So, playing with the firmware now that I got the LCD installed, here is something interesting. If you use the dogm*.* files from Marlin 1.0.2 with Robo's current fork of 1.0.0 the display shows the correct number of extruders on the screen (1), and since there is only one, the actual number 1 above the extruder does not display. I am now printing direct from the SD and will let everyone know if there are any quirks to doing this firmware mod.

    @mark tomlinson - The end goal for me is not really OctoPi so much as to get it on my LAN so I don't have to run upstairs every time I want to control the printer. I will still need to visit the printer most times, but once in a while my old bones just don't want to climb any more stairs.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Remote. Desktop.

    I don't like to walk to the other end of the house to look either.
    (two web cams help as well)
     
  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    A trick I did so that I could watch my prints from my phone or anywhere was use this camera. Though it needs a PC.. I'm working on setting it up on my PI.

    Cheap playstation eye http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-E...id=1434027272&sr=8-1&keywords=playstation+eye

    Install PC drivers ( google it )

    Put the camera facing my printer next to my PC.

    Then the trick was to create a second dummy Skype account, set to auto answer only from my real account with video auto set. I can then Skype call myself from my phone and it auto answers and shows my video/print. This way i can see a print while I'm at work or whatever. Whats cool is this way its not constantly streaming video and blowing up my bandwidth ( Stupid bandwidth caps! )
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    First print with Marlin 1.0.2 installed. Still a bug or two to work out, but it works!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Sorry for the crappy Smartphone photos, but it was late and I didn't want to drag my DSLR upstairs.
     
  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    So disappointed I didn't get my E3Dv6 today, but I did another mod while I was waiting. The plan is to put a Raspberry Pi 2 inside the bottom of the case directly connected to the Arduino via USB. So in order for the heat not to build up too much inside the Robo, I hacked up the bottom corner for a 120 mm fan. Not wanting the additional noise that a 120 produces I had to find one that was fairly low rpm as well as relatively slim. Here is what I found on Amazon Silverstone Tek Professional Slim 120mm Fan with Fine-Tuned Performance and Low Noise Cooling. 32.6 CFM @ 23.5 dB, that is actually quieter than the 40 mm fans supplied by Robo. It is only 15 mm deep so it fit without issue.

    [​IMG]

    Now if I can find a quiet 30 x 30 x 10 mm fan for the hotend, I will be all set. I may have to print a new fan shroud for the E3D that will accept a 40 x 40 x 10 mm since those are available as a low noise fan.
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Got my E3Dv6 today, just finished installing it this evening, stupid me forgot to label the plugs, so it was a bunch of plug it in, 'nope not that one', then try again. Got it all sorted. Don't particularly like the thermistor set up so likely going to get one of the stud ones. Will have to wait until funds become available. My Robo is almost quiet now even with all fans running. Instead of the 5 blade 3 cm x 10 mm fan E3D provides I went with a seven blade 3 cm x 7 mm fan. That along with the two Noctua 4 cm parts fan and the Silverstone 120 I installed yesterday, I can now speak in a normal voice around the printer while it is running. Since I had a bunch of JST 2.54 SM 2 conductor connectors, I was able to plug everything in without cutting or soldering wires. Pays to have PA-09 Engineer crimp tool.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The stud thermistor is a win.
    I have that and a thermocouple (for really hotter stuff) that I can use.
    Plug them in, swap them out.
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Got my Raspberry Pi 2 B yesterday and now have Octopi set up and running, need to print out a case as well as put it on my network. Once I have a USB webcam I will set up port forwarding to view my prints remotely.
     
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  14. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Still no camera but I did have to do something else. 3 of my four pillow blocks holding the bed linear bearings were cracked. this was causing the bed to vibrate as a result of binding. I decided I would try to reprint the bearing pillow blocks. At the same time I wanted to try the IGUS style LM8UU linear bearings, but only self printed. To guarantee alignment between the linear bearings, the only thing that made sense was to make the bearing as long as the pillow block. Since I am trying to use up my PET-G in magenta, why not make them all one piece. So here is a 75 mm long pillow block with integrated LM8 IGUS style linear bearing. The pillow block is identical in height to the Robo original but it is wider to accommodate recessing the cap screw heads.
    [​IMG]
    It has completely eliminated the wobble and it is much quieter than the original ball bearing type. When I remember to bring my camera upstairs I will take a picture of the bed bearings installed. At some point I will likely replace these with a two piece design, so the bearing part is an insert and likely will be printed in Nylon.

    Here it is installed:
    [​IMG]
     
    #35 WheresWaldo, Jul 13, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2015
  16. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I would be very interested in making some of these myself if you'd be willing to share the model.
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    No problem. Printed mine @ 0.25 mm layer height, 50% honeycomb infill 4 perimeters and 4 top and bottom layers. You may need to drill the screw holes out a bit as it was tight on my printer. I printed them upright to avoid any issues with Z height, Round holes usually have zero issues when printed in the X/Y plane. I have round holes in the Z plane also but occasionally the filament will sag while closing the top and that would need cleaning out. Upright also requires no support.
     

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  18. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Camera is still being sourced, I wasn't going to go with the Raspberry Pi camera, just too expensive for my cheap tastes. Likely go with a USB webcam of some sort. I might actually have an old 320x240 genuine IBM webcam stuffed in a box somewhere. I love postage stamp sized video, doesn't everyone! :eek:
     
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