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My Robo is going to be busy tomorow. Has anyone here used the entire Z volume ?

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Jerry Normandin, Jan 12, 2018.

  1. Jerry Normandin

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    Here's my stl loaded up in Simplify3d. I already generated the gcode and have it loaded up on my Octopi sdcard ready to start in morning.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Should be fine, I have printed all the way up
    If you are concerned about it, adjust the print speeds down as the height gets tall.
    Good luck
     
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  3. Jerry Normandin

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    The large print is running. The only adjustment I had to make was to reduce the temperature of the print bed from 80C to 60C.
    The print started at 9:30am EST. I'm printing at fine resolution because this is going to be my ROSbot platform. I've got 4 large pieces to print, the remaining parts are small. I am printing the largest piece first.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Jerry Normandin

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    [​IMG]
    10.5 hours into the print. 6.5hrs to go. Only issues I see with my first large print is the default location for the filament spool isn't ideal.
    Especially when the spool is at 50% use. The center hole for the Laser Lidar assembly is a bit messy. I'll have to clean that up. I am printing the PLA at 215C.. I think the next print will be at 220C. All in all I am impressed. This is my second print from the Robo R1 +
    At 1:30am the print would be done. The cutouts for the Sharp Infrared Distance sensors (on build plate) are very clean. I have two more on the top side that will be created.

    This is the top plate. I still have the sides, center support assemblies, and the bottom to print out.
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Supports would have helped the center hole, but as small as that is you might want to just tweak the bridging settings. It may be a touch hot, rather than too cold. Or, it needs more fan
     
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  6. Jerry Normandin

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    The print failed at 90%. The last part when the front end (the top in the build area) failed on the last angle. The bridging failed.
    The printer was extruding everywhere. I'm uploading the stl file. I don't know if you want to try this on an R1+, let it print while at work. I used Simpplify3d. I thought I had it dialed in. I guess not. The first angle with the camera mount hole printed out. The last angle that has cutouts for the ranging sensors failed.


    The panel that failed was the UpperPanel_bent.stl







     

    Attached Files:

    #6 Jerry Normandin, Jan 13, 2018
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 14, 2018
  7. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    It is not surprising, you jsut can't print a horizontal part like that in thin air without support. It's not even bridging since that would imply linking 2 parts, here there's really nothing at all to link to.

    Why did you choose this orientation? Anything is better really, first choice would probably be flat, 2nd choice on the edge maybe with some adhesion help like a brim.

    Both of those could print without support although you might want to add some too for precision of the cutouts, but they wouldn't amount to a ton of material unlike what you'd need in the orientation you chose.

    Clipboard02.jpg

    Clipboard01.jpg
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Even with @Kilrah's suggested orientation I would use supports.
     
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  9. Jerry Normandin

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    Simplify 3D defaulted to the orientation. I wouldn't print the this laying flat on the bed. It would be difficult to remove.
    My next attempt will be with the play laying on the bed sideways with supports.

    Do you need to adjust the flexible plastic cable protector for printing around max Z volume ? The filament rubbed against the plastic cable protector, when I first heard it, I thought the model was getting hit by the extruder. It was the filament rubbing against the ribbed
    cable plastic flexible conduit.

    I moved my Robo to another room so I won't bother anyone while printing late at night. I'm printing out camera mounts now and
    it's great to have a printer is easy to change the filament.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I don't have a top on any of mine and the cable bundle is held well out of the way.

    The top is more form over function and I am totally a function over form sort of guy.
     
  11. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    The default orientation is defined by the STL file, and most people don't bother making sure the file orientation is appropriate for printing, they just post whatever their CAD program spits out as is.
    Never rely on it, you want to figure out the correct orientation yourself.
     
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  12. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I would print in Kilrah's first orientation shouldn't be impossible to remove with the robo spatula thing in PLA once its cooled. Assuming it fits on the bed that way. Might get warping/curling because its so much surface area down. If PETG it will probably rip chunks out of the glass.

    Or the second one with a raft and supports.. at least manual supports for the biggest overhang at the bottom.

    I would use supports for all the overhangs/bridges myself, they come off easy with simplify 3d. usually.
     
    #12 KTMDirtFace, Jan 15, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2018
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  13. David Pedro

    David Pedro New Member

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    Nice post... Thanks
     

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