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My solution for the IR sensor / Buildtak probe failures

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Jeff Lastofka, Jul 8, 2019.

  1. Jeff Lastofka

    Jeff Lastofka Member

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    My R2's IR sensor wouldn't probe my new flex plate Buildtak. I could hold the plate under the sensor and move it around and not get the monitor LED to come on. Putting other things under there worked fine. Paper, my hand, metal, whatever.
    So I got a small, flat aluminum plate about 4x6" and I lay it on the bed while it pre-heats so it equalizes temperature throughout and stays flat. As the 9 point probe routine runs I slide the plate around to keep it under the sensor, then pull it out before the printing starts. It's working great. The thickness of the plate doesn't matter because the probing is just comparing relative heights to check level. The actual printing offset is still taken from the Z-offset you put in, either from the Wizard or manually in the LCD Eprom setting dialog.
    I'm thinking of getting an 8.5 x 8.5" flat plate so I don't have to slide it around:) The 4x6 was the first one I had available nice and flat. I guess if I did ABS at 100C I'd want some light cotton gloves to protect my finger tips.... Or maybe make a plastic or wood handle for the plate.
    I was also getting some communication errors but I reseated all the connectors I could reach by removing the electronics cover near the bottom of the machine. Now it's like a new printer again:)
    Even after running the bed leveling wizards and adjusting the thumb screws and doing the auto-level, when I print a large, thin rectangle almost to the limits of the machine bed I see a tiny difference in smoosh of the first layer over near one corner, but it doesn't seem to be bothering my PETG prints. Measuring the resulting thin part I see about .1 mm thickness variation.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Moved thread to R2 forum.
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Jeff, that would be typical of the leveling method enabled by the Robo firmware. I would say that 0.1 mm is about as accurate as you will ever get unless you had a milled perfectly flat bed. But the Robo doesn't come with anything like that.

    Unified Bed Leveling, which is in newer version of Marlin, but not in Robo's version of Marlin. Would better match any warp in the bed in any direction. But that requires that you reflash the firmware and then a couple of wizards would stop working. So stay with what you got, at least that is my suggestion.
     
  4. albert3d

    albert3d Member

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    Concerning to hear that the IR probe doesn't pick up the Buildtak surface reliably. I was about to get the flex system for my R2 from Buildtak since they have their 20% off everything sale going on this week.
     
  5. Yopz3d

    Yopz3d New Member

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    Hello, can anyone vouch for this jnformation? I just ordered a flex plate with buildtack from Jonah at partsbuilt and would hate to find out I have to make a return already but have no interest i would it make more sense to pursue the ultimate level bed thread on here and skit the learning curve of regular heated beds?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. wuidling

    wuidling Member

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    Buildtalk dont work witht the Robo R2 IR sensor..
    Anyway you will get much better results with manual leveling.

    The Buildtalk Flexplate and Surface is awesome, but be careful if the distance is too low you will damaged your surface.

    I killed two pieces with auto bed leveling, distance problems and settings.

    If you use it dont forget to delete the G29 Gcode in your settings (Cura/Octoprint) !

    Regards


    excuse my school english

    .
     
    #6 wuidling, Jul 6, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
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  7. Yopz3d

    Yopz3d New Member

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    Understood I do my levelling manually anyway generally so I guess it won’t slow me down really but I am quite suprised, is the buildtack for the flex plate system not near if not the same material robos stock proprietary build sheet is? They seem similar and I have a hard time understanding what would impede the ir sensor from properly receipting. I’m am aware of the 2+2 is 4 rule though so don’t take this dismissively more as an inquisition


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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The issue generally with the Robo IR sensors is the colors of materials they will react correctly with.
    Black seems to be the expected color...
     
  9. wuidling

    wuidling Member

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    #9 wuidling, Jul 6, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020
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  10. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    The problem isn't so much with the Buildtak / IR sensor combination. Rather, it is the 9 point auto-level routine used with stock Marlin firmware. I've installed a glass plate mod on top of a Flexplate mod. I've disabled the auto-level G-code in Octoprint and substituted the Home G-code G28. The extruder always starts a print job from a known position. In this scenario, proper leveling of the print bed is important.

    Why this combination? The glass plate gives me the best flat surface available and the Flexplate gives me the ability to remove the print bed surface without disturbing the print bed level.

    As a side note: a lot of guys have installed a custom version of Marlin which uses a better auto-leveling routine.
     

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