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Need help..Rhino 3d to solid

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by Racegrafix, Nov 26, 2013.

  1. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    I bought a printer and just waiting and working on files. I have a few objects I want to print, done in rhino 3d simply because that's what I know how to use. I need them to print a true solid...is there any way to convert? Should I use something different?
     
  2. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    I haven't worked in Rhino yet. I haven't tried DXF files yet, however Rhino should offer the option to save a file as a .STL file, or generate a .STL file (which has been the common file format for most of a decade). Make sure your geometry is all cleaned up before saving.

    Hopefully here is a link that will help:

    http://wiki.mcneel.com/rhino/stlinfo
     
  3. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    I saved it as a stl with no problem, and ran it in the software with no problem. The problem is the part is hollow where I need it solid. Its considered a "solid" in rhino, but as far as 3d printing its just a shell.
     
  4. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    I was playing with rhino before and didn't have a problem when exporting as a .stl, it would print as a solid fine.
     
  5. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    Are you using generic repetier, or the robo3D?
     
  6. Mattchu

    Mattchu Member

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    The reason I ask is the robot one seems to have a default infill of .2. When I tested it today there was barely any material inside, and the sliced code looked hollow.
     
  7. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    using robo 3d version. So maybe change the infill? I will give it a shot.

    Just looked, and there is option for solid infill every __ layers. Would it make it solid if I just make it ever 1 layers?
     
  8. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    Change the fill Density, set it to something like .60 Most of the time you will never need to set it to completely solid infill.
     
  9. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I rarely use 100% infil only if the strength is needed and it needs some heft to it

    but you are correct setting that option to a 1 will gen a solid layer on every layer but again I agree with Seshan I am not sure if you need it.
     
  10. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    it will absolutely need to be 100%, theres no question in that.
     
  11. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    Why so? What are you printing?
     
  12. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    Its a suspension part for RC car, its going to take some abuse, not sure solid its even going to hold up well enough. So if that's the case, I will do it hollow and cast it from the mold.
     
  13. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    one thing you need to know about is the orientation of thepart when you print it the layers going in one axis if there is twist or bending in that axis it is more likely to fail that if you rotate the print and maybe make the layer run along the z axis it simply depends on the direction of the expected forces which dictates teh best orientation to print

    A shock absorber casing may work better printed lying down as it will be subject to anglar forces as well as contraction ones printed lying down translates the layers so it can flex more side to side


    Just something to keep in mind
     
  14. Racegrafix

    Racegrafix Active Member

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    That's very true. One real reason I want to do it is there are a few parts that simply cannot be machined, and if they could be it would require a 6 figure + 5 axis cnc. I have a cnc already and make a lot of stuff, but this one is pretty complex. I question it even printing, lol.
     
  15. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    well if you want you could send me some files and I could take a look I have had some pretty good success. its up to you
     

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