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New Robo3D user

Discussion in 'Introduction' started by deeph, Oct 12, 2014.

  1. deeph

    deeph Member

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    Hello,

    I'm Tyo, recently bought Robo3D R1. And have printed some model, really like the result. Until I got some issue with filament not extruding, and then I fixed it by measuring the filament thickness and adjusted the extrude/retract speed, now runs great!

    Thanks..
    Tyo
     
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  2. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Awesome! If you're running PLA, some people have also found that putting a little canola oil on your filament from time to time improves reliability.
     
  3. deeph

    deeph Member

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    I almost don't believe with adding canola oil or similar to the filament but after much reading there are many done that. I will do that if the problem persist. I will print a filament mount on top of printer, it takes 3 hours with medium setting. Hopefully it runs smooth until finish.
     
  4. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Just a warning - be careful with top mounted filament holders I you have any children using it or if you have any temporary moments of incoordination;). The bed will break very easily if the spool falls on it. I suggest a side mount like this:
     

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  5. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Use Canola or Grapeseed oil. They are both high temp oils. Something like olive oil may burn.
     
  6. deeph

    deeph Member

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    Actually no children will use the printer but I also note that for myself. Have started print the mount though. After finish I will look if there is possibility to make the mount more rigid. Thanks for the precautions.
     
  7. deeph

    deeph Member

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    Oh, my temperature for PLA is 225, is there a problem in the future if running that high? Looks like if I'm running that high the filament just flow good. I haven't oil the filament yet though.

    Before print I have to wait the extruder hot enough even the temp that has been reached.
     
  8. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    PLA is around 190
    I tried 212 on some, but 225 I am not sure of but if it looks good in the end then run with it.

    Try experimenting on a small print different temps (185, 190, 212, 220, 225)

    Then compare and see which one looks the best. If you do it, post the results. Different filaments will vary in what temp to run at. Only experimentation will tell.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk in Canada
     
  9. Austin

    Austin Team ROBO 3D
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    If you just bought your printer you have the "Hexagon" all metal hotend. People report loss of extrusion when printing PLA at normal temps like 190 with the new hotend. Try printing PLA at 210 instead. Everyone I know with a hexagon hot end does this and has better results. Cheers
     
  10. deeph

    deeph Member

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    Haven't tried below 200 but 200 runs fine.
    Yes, I got the one with Hexagon and no cover at bottom of the printer. Actually run well about an hour at 210 or 225 and then clog (again). I push the filament by hand it can extrude for a while then clog again. The teeth of stock hobbed bolt also bend, have tried bend backward after the filament jammed it bends.

    some pics...need comments
    2014-10-13_11-55-29_16.jpg 2014-10-13_11-56-24_249.jpg IMG-20141013-WA0002.jpeg
     
  11. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    Show us the bent hob bolt.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk in Canada
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The fact that it prints for a while and then jams makes it sounds like seasoning or an oiler might help (I see this was already suggested)
     
  13. deeph

    deeph Member

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    @Peter Krska, After pulling the tiny particle inside the hotend, the hobbed bolt seems run just fine now even the hobbed bolt's teeth are bend.

    @mark tomlinson, Well, actually I sorted out the problem. There is tiny particle inside the hotend. What I do is gave the filament a thin film of cooking oil, inserted in to the extruder and push it by hand while it's hot about 5 times (forgot to count how many time). Then change non oiled filament, again, push it by hand. Then leave it until the temp down to about 140 degrees and pull the filament. Yess:D

    Made a tweaking with slicing setting which is the Z-offset and First Layer Height, others is stock setting. Also change speed into 50 mm/s. Much better than before I printed some parts.

    Box 1 (Left): Using Z-offset .6 and First Layer Height .3. Bottom layer squished wider.
    Box 2 (Right): Using Z-offset .7 and First Layer Height .2. Bottom layer squished narrower.

    Pics:
    _1012843.JPG
    _1012844.JPG

    EDIT: The 4 edges on those boxes are a bit blob.
     

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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, that would do it.
     
  15. deeph

    deeph Member

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    About to make filament oiler.
     
  16. deeph

    deeph Member

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    Just printed some parts with ABS. First two parts were curling. But after made a ABS juice it works awesome. I would say ABS juice is a must. Using stock hex hotend and 82° C bed.
     
  17. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    ABS juice is the way to go for adhesion.
     
  18. deeph

    deeph Member

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    What did you do the best method to clean up that thing? I'm using Aceton and towel to clean it.
     
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    My favorite method is a flat blade razor. Comes off in nice ribbons that way.
     

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