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New Taulman nylon 'Bridge'

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Printed Solid, Mar 7, 2014.

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  1. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Yes I'm running on bowden @245C. This print is looking better at 30mm/s. We'll see how structural it is

    The nylon seems to have more elasticity than abs or pla so it will compress and expand when force is applied making it harder to extruder at high speeds.
     
    #21 Mike Kelly, May 26, 2014
  2. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    I have found the strength/elasticity to be exceptional. I printed one very large part that I was attempting to use for a primary suspension piece and, when I sat on the vehicle it was attached to, it twisted a full 45 degrees... but didn't break. It was about 1.5x3 inches and 9+ inches long. I weigh 200 lbs. Though it proved useless for its intended purpose, I was so impressed I did it a few more times just to watch how much it twisted and sagged. I also gave up trying to remove rafts (Cura) as they were more work than it was worth. Switched to brim for better results. On PLA, you can just peel the brim away. With nylon, I cut it tight to the edge of the piece with scissors though it does peel sometimes.And I am able to print faster as the pieces I have been using it for are large; .6 nozzle, 50mm. For detail, slower is essential. For wicked fine detail, I like carbon fiber. I just printed some earrings at .1 layer with a .4 nozzle. Virtually no clean up with CF and very fine detail.
     
    #22 1d1, May 26, 2014
    3 people like this.
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I'm wondering if it would extrude easier at higher temperatures. Right now it seems to be having a difficult time.
     
    #23 Mike Kelly, May 26, 2014
  4. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Forgot you're bowden. Bowden's don't typically handle 1.75mm flexible materials particularly well. Running it slow is probably your best bet.
     
    #24 Printed Solid, May 26, 2014
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I was able to do test extrusion a lot hotter than 245 without any real noticeable negative effects. Try hotter (say 255).
     
    #25 mark tomlinson, May 27, 2014
  6. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Taulman Bridge filament just arrived in the shop. Will be experimenting this weekend.
     
    #26 Technidyne, Aug 15, 2014
  7. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    245. Glue stick. Bed 50. Or whatever comes out working for you... Have fun!
     
    #27 1d1, Aug 15, 2014
  8. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Cool! ......thanks!:)
     
    #28 Technidyne, Aug 15, 2014
  9. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Tried to print some Taulman Bridge with a setting of 245*C ....hotend got to 239 and I got a MAX TEMP ERR message on the XXL LCD screen.
    Trying to find where to alter the Max Temp Setting. Running WIN XPpro and MatterControl Printer has the Hexagon printhead.
     
    #29 Technidyne, Aug 18, 2014
  10. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    You need to use arduino software and modify an existing code. Like the 6-10 firmware if you're on an R1
     
    #30 Mike Kelly, Aug 18, 2014
  11. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Is there a detailed procedure somewhere on the forum for this? ....I DO NOT want to screw it up.
    ........Taulman Bridge filament going back into storage till i can figure it out.
     
    #31 Technidyne, Aug 18, 2014
  12. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's easy. Just open the firmware, navigate to the configuration.h tab. Do a ctrl+f for 275, at least that's how I find it.
    Where it says extruder temp max 240, change that to like 295 for the hexagon. Then save and upload.

    Bam!
     
    #32 Mike Kelly, Aug 18, 2014
  13. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    ....easy cause u done it so may times;)
    ......at the risk of sounding like a dumb A$$, would like to be talked through this when convenient, as I have no idea how to go about the above!o_O No experience with Arduino!
     
    #33 Technidyne, Aug 18, 2014
  14. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Message me on skype, it's in my profile. I can also team viewer with you.
     
    #34 Mike Kelly, Aug 18, 2014
  15. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Cool! .....Will try when power comes back on .....transformer blow-out in the area.:(
     
    #35 Technidyne, Aug 18, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 18, 2014
  16. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Ok, I been messing around with the Arduino software and the 6-10 configuration.h firmware. I take it this is the 240 I need to change to 295? Also, Do I just save and upload? or do I have to specify to the Arduino software a particular board type, under "TOOLS"?

    #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 240 //robo
    #define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
    #define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
     
    #36 Technidyne, Aug 20, 2014
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Change it (yes, that one). Save it. Compile it. Upload it.

    Boom! yer done.

    P.S. Yes it is an Arduino Mega 2560 under TOOLS/BOARD
     
    #37 mark tomlinson, Aug 20, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 20, 2014
  18. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Cool! .....done and it works.
    THANKS
     
    #38 Technidyne, Aug 20, 2014
  19. Technidyne

    Technidyne Active Member

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    Just tried a print at 245*C / 70*C machine does not seem to like it. Seems like it has a hard time extruding and the filament kinks at the hobbed bolt. Will try again tonight
    [​IMG]
     
    #39 Technidyne, Aug 20, 2014
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Bring the temps up. Not all thermistors are created equal.
    I had that happen when it was a shade too cold. IIRC @Printed Solid says it prints well at an actual 235c, but on mine 245c is the base number and 250c is better. I could get the I/R thermometer out, but I just go with 250c.

    The bed is less important, I think I run mine at 50c.
     
    #40 mark tomlinson, Aug 20, 2014
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