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No BuildTak Print Surface compatible

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by tiagomaricate, Jul 26, 2020.

  1. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    So... I did several tests with a lot of different print surfaces and no one works.
    Only the original one.
    If I put any other print surface, the IR sensor doesn't work right, and the bed crash against the nozzle (during autoleveling).
    Does anybody have any idea on how this IR sensor works?
    The print surface from partsbuilt has very low quality. I bought a new one and used it just two times and it already delaminated.
    A transparent film detached from the black surface with the glue.
    I can't believe only the original can work.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

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  3. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    I will test it!
    I separate some different tapes to try and discover what the UV sensor sees.
     
  4. Yopz3d

    Yopz3d New Member

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    I will be installing the flex plate system this week, does anyone have similar poor experience with the parts built buildtack material and if so how did you overcome it? Just looking to do some preemptive planning as I expected this to be a relatively fun little challenging cottage project to keep me from bothering my family too much but it will not be if it causes more issues


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. tiagomaricate

    tiagomaricate Member

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    I just lost 2 buildtaks "original" from partsbuilt.
    One I used 4 times. The other one, just 1.
    It was destroyed while removing the print.
    So I wrote to them and sent some pics from the destroyed buildtak... they are checking what they can do.
    Now I'm using magnetic tape and a still plate with other buildtak (generic) over it.
    The vantage is that you can swap by a buildtak and a glass surface.
     
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  6. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Yes, Buildtak can be destroyed.
    One way is to use a plastic with great adhesion properties and print at too high of a temperature. Then the model clings to the Buildtak too well. Removal of the model pulls up some Buildtak.
    Another way is to level the print bed incorrectly thereby causing "gouging" when the distance from the hotend nozzle tip to the Buildtak drops to zero ( or below ) and the hotend leaves a trail.
    When applying Buildtak, if you leave air bubbles under the Buildtak..... You get the idea.
     
  7. Yopz3d

    Yopz3d New Member

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    Hey thanks for the feedback, unfortunately I was more looking for feedback on how people had overcome the if sensor issue, such as if tape what kind and colour, I was just hoping someone could confirm their solution to the problem but I will be trying the masking tape this week so I'll report back as well I'm intrigued to find out where I can aquire blue buildtack sheets as I read of a use on here with them working once I believe


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  8. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I do not use the IR sensor. But I do use 1/32 thick G10 as a print surface which is extremely rugged and cheap. It should work very well with the IR sensor being about the same surface roughness as the Robo surface. Put the G10 on glass and glue both with glue sheets.
     

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