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Non-Standard Robo R2 Hot End Replacement

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Connor1534654, Mar 26, 2021.

  1. Connor1534654

    Connor1534654 New Member

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    Hi All,

    We seem to be having some issues with our thermistor on the standard Robo R2 hotend. Over the years we have had some issues with these components and have struggled for parts as so far as we can see partsbuilt.com are the only supplier and have an expensive shipping cost to the UK. ($50 for an $8 component)

    Therefore to keep our printer going we are looking into replacing the whole hotend assembly and have found 3rd party alternatives such as the E3D V6 All Metal Hotend but have seen that this could be difficult to install.

    I am hoping that someone would be able to suggest an alternative that would be readily available and somewhat simple to install into the Robo R2.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is a thread about converting the R2 to use the E3Dv6, but the entire carriage is targeted for the Hexagon so that is not a good idea unless you really want to print/assemble a replacement carriage and if you do -- that thread has all the details.

    What you can do instead is what I did for the 2nd extruder I added to my C2 -- use a generic Hexagon hotend rather than one from Robo.

    The difference between the generic and theirs is the length of the cables attached to the thermistor and heater core and the use of JST connectors for mating them up with the downtown board. We have that information (the exact JST connectors) in one thread here in the R2 section and I have a thread in the C2 section that shows the connectors in situ with the extruder/downtown board exposed. Let me know if you can't find those threads or have any questions.
     
  3. Connor1534654

    Connor1534654 New Member

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    I have found your C2 dual hotend upgrade thread but not the R2 thread. I have found a hotend available that says it is applicable for the R1 - I saw that you mentioned some issues between Robo changing from 12v to 24v in their new printers. Therefore I am assuming it needs to be 24V hotend.

    With 24V there is a Full Metal Hotend for 1.75mm filament 24V that is available and thought that this seemed to fit the bill. I am not sure if you can see from the attached picture whether the JST connectors are still needed. If they are would the ones from the attached picture work as they are more readily available from a different supplier in the UK. Thanks for your help.
    View attachment 18488 Screenshot 2021-03-29 092739.png
     
    #3 Connor1534654, Mar 29, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2021
  4. Connor1534654

    Connor1534654 New Member

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    Issue with the attachment that would not solve see below :-
    Screenshot 2021-03-29 085950.png
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I am not sure those are the same exact connectors, but the JST one looks close.
    You would need to compare it to your existing ones as I do not have an R2 to check against.
    Worst case you can replace the connectors entirely if you want. The ones that mount on the downtown board you could not easily replace, but the ones where they connect to the hotend heater and thermsitor could be replaced.
     
  6. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    It is easy to use the E3D V6.. I have posted on the forum a shroud that will work with it and it is the only change needed. I have also posted all of the connectors used on the Robo and recommended the tool for crimping them on. I only use E3D's and have no problem with them. I crimp on the correct connectors. I also posted a firmware upgrade that will has a table for the cheapie thermistors and moves the bed down to take into account the longer E3D.
     
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  7. Connor1534654

    Connor1534654 New Member

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    Thanks. Was solved using a standard hexagon hotend! thanks for all your help.
     
  8. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    is there a thread you could point me to on the E3D V6 install ?
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  10. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    This shroud uses two m3x28 socket heat screws. You can then use one of the many low cost E3D J6 wade hotends on eBay. the last ones I bought were under $6. The punch is a forming tool for the optional shield. I prefer to use the tin from old 1 gallon containers of alcohol, paint thinner etc. I use a punch to make a 7mm hole in an appropriately sized piece then place over the forming tool and put in a vice. I scribe around the forming tool and cut with tin snips; file to fit into the shroud.

    A shield between the hotend and the fans lets you really run the fans full out.
     

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