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Unanswered Part cooling fan configuration.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Oisin, Oct 25, 2016.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Take the shrouds off so that air is not directed to the hotend. Also ramp up the fan speeds, don't start at 100%. You probably don't need as much cooling as you think unless you are doing a lot of long bridging.
     
  2. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    The shrouds are what are securing the fans to the printer. No shrouds would mean no cooling and I've already tried that. The PETG curls as much as the PLA did. The hotend seems to be able to hold temperature (kind of) with 80% cooling so I'll try holding it there and see how the print comes out. Thanks for everyones patience! I'm trying to record everything here. Maybe someone else will have this issue in the future.

    I took your advice and ramped up the fans 40, 60 and 80 percent on layers 2, 3 and 4 respectively. Seems to have worked a lot better than going to 100% on layer 2.
     
  3. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Getting continual jams so I'm assuming 235 is too cold despite it working yesterday. I'll go up to 260 and see. Then I'll have been from 215 to 260 in 5 degree increments and not seen success. I've heard some people say 260 was necessary for them.
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    @Oisin I'd imagine that if your seeing the same curl with PETG as you are with PLA then we have another issue. My assumption would be a slicer settings (such as the minimum cooling time per layer). With a .25 nozzle and 30mm/s print speed any layers under 60 secs I have to slow down to 30% speed. Yes its drastic but I dont have the overheating/curling issues.

    The .25 nozzle was a massive headache for me to contend with. Hang in there. I'd honestly suggest switching nozzle size and doing a stock FFF to see what shakes out that way (if you have a stock nozzle size available ?)
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Just did that again on one of our Robos ... I agree. It is a hassle to get sorted out and printing at quality again.
     
  6. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    I don't think I understand how minimum times per layer work with this sort of print. None of the layers take less than 4 minutes to print anyway so you can assume the nozzle doesn't pass over the same point more than 3 times (3 perimeters) every 4 minutes.

    I have only got a 0.4mm nozzle in the old hex hotend. Not sure it would fit an E3D v6. I'm all about quality over time anyway. I'd rather it take 80 hours to print a high quality piece than 5 hours to print a messy one.
     
  7. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Hex and V6 have the same thread pattern. So you should be able to switch if needed.
     
  8. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Okay I guess I'll try that but I do intend to use the 0.25 since I usually print at 50 microns. Might yield interesting results. Not 100% sure who I keep getting jams though. 235 should be fine.
     
  9. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Alright after considerable amounts of time spent testing I think I'll stick with 240C on the hotend and 90C on the bed with hairspray. I can't stop it curling like PLA on the shallowest overhang (70 degrees) but it'll do 65 acceptably I think. I'll try a full overhang test tomorrow at 100 microns and see how it comes out.

    Edit
    Just tried printing at 100 microns tonight because curiosity got the better of me. Mad failure right from the off. The overhang immediately curled as it did with PLA. Back to square 1 I guess!
     
    #149 Oisin, Nov 16, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2016
  10. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Images of the first print at 100 microns. It's the corners. When my printer turns a corner, it's as if it drags the filament with it or something.
     

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  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Turns as in x or y ?
     
  12. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Hard to know since the curl is in the corner. Both the x and y axis are involved. It was okay at 0.2mm and totally different at 0.1mm. That's pretty weird right?
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Maybe try tightening the belts a bit to see how it looks. Could be a possible slop.
     
  14. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    The y axis won't go any tighter since the screw is all the way in. The x-axis makes a nice twang when I strum it. It's pretty tight. I'll tighten it a little more though.
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If you loosen that screw in the bedroom the way you can actually adjust the belt a tooth or two in the holder then reassemble to get a little tighter
     
  16. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Ah okay. I'll try that. I whacked the temperature back up to 260 and it's printing a little bit better. Still curling but less so than at 240C.

    0.2mm 240C
    0.1mm 260C+

    Weird.
     
  17. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Nevermind. I only just saw this. It's nowhere neat 260. The hotend can't hold that temperature with the fans on.
     

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  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That is strange. With a 40 watt heater i dont have that issue but temperature, speed, layer height etc all play a factor as does enviroment. I
     
  19. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    what speed are you printing at
     
  20. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    25mm/s and then I tried 55mm/s but there was no appreciable difference at 0.1mm. At 0.2mm the slower speed was much better.
     

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