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PETG best filament without a heated bed?

Discussion in 'Filament' started by colton81, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    IMG_2670.JPG IMG_2671.JPG so i went out and bought 2 rolls of hatchbox white PETG filament heard alot of good things about it. So is this better then PLA and almost as durable as ABS? Well ill find out soon. With my first i made a lattice cover for some mason jars for my wedding coming up. Its printed easy with the temp at 240C and speed at 75 using cura. Having a little bit of stringing but the issue is the curving parts are not printing properly as well as the bridging is almost like the layers are sticking together. Is this a temp issue being to low or the speed to fast? Printed at 0.2mm
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Printing too fast and/or not hot enough. PETG behaves differently with regard to stringing than say, PLA, when PLA strings you need to turn the temp down a bit, when PETG strings you usually need to turn the temp up a bit, also looks like you are over-extruding a bit.

    Bridging PETG is walking a fine line between success and failure kind of like navigating a small boat between Scylla and Charybdis.
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Start will small test models and print/test/tweak/repeat
    You can do a lot of filaments without a heated bed, but the settings will take some fine tuning.
     
  4. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Ok i will try increasing the temp slowly and i went to 90% for flow also my model is thin about 1.2mm thick so when it first printed it printed the center hollow and i noticed after slicing it showed the center part was hollow so i lowered the wall thickness to .4mm after slicing it shows it filled in now so hopefully that will help as well
     
  5. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Yea im doing just the bottom part at a time untillni can see it looks good then will have it print it entirely
     
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  6. SteveSaamer

    SteveSaamer New Member

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    I just started printing with PETG today. No knowledge other than some online research, and trial and error. For my 1st attempt, I started with the extruder temp at 245C and the bed at 65. I used blue painters tape, first time ever, and it works amazing! I was hesitant for some reason, but wow, very nice. I also decided to slow the speed down to 55mm/s and 60mm/s for infill. I really don't know if the speed change was necessary but I tried it. First piece turn out great. It was a small but had some details. Seems very strong and layers look good. Attempt 2; I am currently trying to print a much taller and narrow piece, about 4" tall, rough width or 1.5", but a small footprint. I am printing supports. So far it all looks good.

    UPDATE - Ok, Sunday morning, woke up to the finished piece and it turned out great. Raft made it super easy to pop off the bed. This is the first time using supports with PETG and the attachment spots on the piece are much more solid than with PLA. A file should clean this up. Overall, I am happy with the print, but I can tell that a few more tweaks to the settings may be needed. Don't have much to compare it with, seems similar quality visually to a PLA print, but it noticeably stronger. I'm adding a few photos; mid print, final print, and the 3d file pic for reference. If anyone has suggestions, feel free to comment. Thanks!

    photo mid print PETG.jpg H] photo PETG print.jpg photo of 3d file.jpg
     
    #6 SteveSaamer, Apr 29, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2017
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Many of the filaments that list lower bed heat numbers can be printed without bed heat if you have something (like the C2 does) on the bed to assist adhesion. Only a few really NEED bed or external heat to deter warp (like ABS, polycarbonate)
     
  8. robodobo

    robodobo New Member

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    I use much lower temperatures for PETG on the R1, say 220C. The filament needs to cool down as fast as possible. That greatly improves corners with overhangs. My guess is that a fan duct on the R1 would help (and then the temperature would have to be raised.) On the C2, I use around 240C, the cooling is superior and filament is laid down much better, especially in small areas. With PETG, go slow in any case.
     

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