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PETG suggestions?

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by TylerJ, Feb 21, 2016.

  1. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    My problem was every one keep telling me to go slow and hot after using lafaspot settings that are faster and ruining cooler my print came out grate.
    I use glue sticks and everyone was telling me that the bed need to be at 80 to 90 the glue dyed out to fast and made it worse.
    The only thing i think i need to change on the settings is the fan speed.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Always take any temperature suggestions as 'guidelines'.
    Everyone has a different environment and will likely have different 'best' settings.

    Every new spool needs a test model run (or two) to find your best settings.

    I have a few that have altered due to age, but that is less common.
     
  3. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    Now i need to get the top layer to fill in better probably need to play with the fan and for the first time i have burn marks on a print. :(
     
  4. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    Is it just me or is it harder to work with than people say. I got after people said it was PLA easy and ABS strong.
     
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  5. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    Prints even easier then PLA for me. Prints crisper/smoother then PLA and what makes it even easier is its hydrophoebic properties which means i can leave it on my printer without needing to worry about moisture and it getting brittle like PLA . I honesty never have a failed print with PETG from the material. Never even the slightest warpage.Sticks to the bed Great. Not a single complaint here.

    Its my number 1 choice of filament .I rarely use PLA anymore unless i need a specific color that i only have in PLA
     
  6. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    Are you using simplify3d?

    Edit: sorry I see your post now. I will cheek my setting agents yours and see if thy work better for me.

    P.S. Have you upgraded you printer?
     
  7. TstarkEngineering

    TstarkEngineering Active Member

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    Well yes and no in my opinion.
    Yes it can be easier, as it doesn't warp like abs, but no in the fact support can be difficult to remove, or if running dual extrusion doesn't bond real well to support material. It likes to bond itself really well to glass(can actually chip glass) though doesnt necessarily need fans and can run with or without a heated bed(though better suited at like an 80 degree bed). It is forgiving to a certain extent and can be quite strong. There are positives and negatives about it in my opinion and it all depends on the application.
     
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  8. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    My printer was a R1 but i did the factory leadscrew Plus mod and E3D V6 .Also the top mount spool holder i made helps a lot. Everything else is basically stock R1 even glass. Make sure to use hairspray like Aquanet..Yup im using S3D .

    Btw supports remove just as easy as PLA for me. My first print they were slightly harder to remove but never been a issue after i raised the seperation from part option in S3D to 0,30 .Now supports pop right off and cleanly. All it usually takes is a light pick with my fingernail.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So there you go :)

    All materials have + and - about them. You application is what makes it right or wrong.
     
  10. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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  11. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    Looks like globs fell in it maybe from dirty nozzle ? What brand PETG are you using.? Also what layer height are you printing at? E3D or Hex?

    My PETG prints look like this.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    eSUN PETG 0.2000 mm layer height R1+ so Hex i think.
     
  13. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    Maybe it has to do with the hex? Iv never printed PETG when i had the hex . I know the E3D does like hotter temps. When i was using the hex with PLA though that burning and globs falling on the print was actually the main reason i went with the E3D , I even had the rubber boot start melting and dripping in my print when i had the hex.That would really mess up the print as it would jump everytime it hits one of those burn /glob spots

    The part in my pic above was printed at .25mm layer height.By eye i cant even see the individual layers.

    I am actually almost done with a new printer im building which has the Hex on it . As soon as its finished i will try to print with PETG on it and see what it does.

    Btw Are your leadscrews straight ? Iv read a few people have had issues with warped/bent leadscrews on the R1plus. Mine came perfectly straight luckily . That can contribute to the ribbing in the pics.
     
  14. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    This was my first print with these settings.
     

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  15. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    lead screws look straight.

    This is the most / best detailed print i did with PLA.
     

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  16. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    That looks a little better. Have you changed your retraction settings .Mine are still default settings. Do you have it set to inside out or outside in? When using the outside in setting it doesnt work well with overhangs which is stated in the S3D manual. Theres some things that may improve that print. Are you using a print fan? If so turn it off. That horizontal stringing on the large spike leads me to think its cooling too fast. To reduce stringing you can lower the temp to 235 . Also may want to adjust the extrusion multiplier so its not over extruding any filament. The retraction settings can help too but imo i wouldnt touch them until its dialed in the best it can be. Every printer and spool is different so dialing it in is key.

    Also calibrating the Esteps should help. You should be getting better resolution then that
     
  17. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    Thank you try those settings do you have a test print you use?
     
  18. TstarkEngineering

    TstarkEngineering Active Member

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    hahah thanks mark...sometimes my thoughts can be scattered....
     
  19. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @RD Ghost It also looks like you could up the retraction just bit and lessen the extrusion multiplier a very small amount. What happens with PETG even over-extruding a very minor amount, is that it like to stick to the nozzle. Eventually there will be a build up on the nozzle under constant heat that will char and then fall off into the print at some other point. That is what causes all those brown spots. Even though I also believe that PETG is very easy to print with, it can take some time to "dial it in." It does not take very well to any over extrusion, in fact, under extruding ever so slightly will almost always come out better.

    BTW, your PLA print exhibits some of the same issues, mainly over extrusion.

    On your first attempt with the newer settings, PETG is a bit different than other filaments when it comes to stringing, like that exhibited on the tall cone. PETG when it strings usually indicates that your extrusion temperature is just a bit too cold. It actually like to extrude hot. I don't have a single profile for PETG where I extrude at less than 236°C and for solid black I extrude at 240°C. PLA on the other hand extrudes at the lowest temperature that I can get to stick.
     
    #59 WheresWaldo, May 20, 2016
    Last edited: May 23, 2016
  20. RD Ghost

    RD Ghost Member

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    New setings just printed.Has some problems any more advanced is appreciated.
     

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