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Unresolved PETG warping issue

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Jake Ciasca, Feb 8, 2021.

  1. Jake Ciasca

    Jake Ciasca Member

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    So I recently got a batch of hatchbox petg and I adjusted some of my print settings like temperature both bed and nozzle and basic stuff that shouldn’t affect the print, but this is what the final result looks like 224AC98B-51A2-4BA5-8588-447EE6897932.jpeg 7BC82E76-6F3D-4F32-89AD-4D749B160649.jpeg
    One side came out decently well but the other side came out really bad and I have no idea what to do to fix this, I’m new to printing petg so there could be something I’m missing. I set my minimum fan speed set to 20% and max set to 50% but I’m not sure if it should be set to 100% I also printed with a raft, which helped stick the entire build to the bed but that one side still warped even though the raft was completely stuck to the bed. Any help would be great, thanks!
     

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  2. Rod Smith

    Rod Smith Member

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    That looks like a part cooling issue to me. The stock Robo3D R1-series part-cooling setup is pretty bad. There are several R1-series part-cooling fan duct designs on Thingiverse. The one I'm using is one-sided, which isn't optimal, but at least it directs the air flow more precisely. A second duct on the other side can be added, or a two-sided or multi-direction duct design would do the job better.
     
  3. Jake Ciasca

    Jake Ciasca Member

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    That's the thing, I have printed another cooling fan duct for the original robo r1 fan, and on top of that, I printed another one for a second fan I had which is smaller but still provides cooling for the other side, so I have printed different part cooling fan ducts and even added a second fan, so I doubt that this is a cooling problem but I'm not sure.
     
  4. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    Try to experiment with the orientation of the print. If it's facing left to right along the X axis then rotate it to print along the Y axis. Which slicer are you using? Sometimes a different slicing engine improves or ruins the print. In Matter Control version 1.7.5, you have an option for Matter Slice, Cura or Slic3r.
     
  5. Jake Ciasca

    Jake Ciasca Member

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    I’m using an older version of cura because I download the newest version of cura and there was a lot of new settings that I didn’t want to mess with so I just stayed with this older version but I changed the orientation and the print turned out better, why would that be, here’s a picture of the print when I changed the orientation: 7F94F9B9-C454-46A8-B9AC-4C56E6CDB36A.jpeg image.jpg
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Because the slicer generates the toolpaths and when you reoriented it -- it picked better ones.
    A different slicer will not use the same toolpaths.
     
  7. Jake Ciasca

    Jake Ciasca Member

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    Well, how would a better toolpath basically eliminate the warpage from the petg like what happened in the first picture from this post?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Different stresses on the filament and the model as it is laid down (the movement of the extruder as well as the acceleration and jerk all affect that).
    Different airflow if you have fans blowing across it (excessive cooling can cause warpage, too little cooling can cause warpage if you are printing too hot)
    Different heated bed heat if you are using that (the Robo heated bed is NOT consistent across the surface) so different adhesion (which directly affects warpage)
     
  9. Jake Ciasca

    Jake Ciasca Member

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    But that's the thing, the warpage only happened on one side of the print and it didn't happen to the raft, so is it still the same cause? And is there a way for me to find a good orientation for prints or do you just have to use trial and error and pray that you pick the correct orientation for each print so you don't have to continually reprint a part in different orientations?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The raft is put down completely differently than the actual model. How the raft is assembled is again -- the slicers choice. It is intentionally different so that it will hold the model in place securely and still let you release it when done.

    If I were having issues that orientation sorted -- I would try another slicer after I sanity checked the model is not in error. There are tools to do that for you for free (netfabb has an online model validator that is excellent) and some slicers have tools to do this as well.

    After doing the modeling long enough for printing you learn what to avoid in the model :)
    And how to split it into separate sections that print well.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    While you have to create an autodesk account the netfabb service is free.
     
  13. Jake Ciasca

    Jake Ciasca Member

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    Awesome, I will check netfabb out right now, I wish I had simplify 3d but since it costs so much money I really don't want to spend money when there are free options although it is the best.
     
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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Heh, perspective helps. CNC has cost me so much in tooling and software (and materials) that I am getting numb to the prices :)
    Simplify3D seems rather cheap in that respect.

    BUT... never spend money when free works for you. It is not a status symbol ;)
     
  15. BrooklynBay

    BrooklynBay Active Member

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    The older version of Slic3r which is part of Matter Control version 1.7.5 has an error correction feature, but it never worked for me. Windows 10 has a program called 3D Builder with a built in error correction feature which seems to work most of the time but not all of the time.
     

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