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Phenom3030's R1 adventure

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Phenom3030, Apr 6, 2015.

  1. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Aloha all!

    Just unboxed my R1 this afternoon! Set it up as per the getting started video and cranked out my first print right after!
    Just to preface, I have no prior experience with CAD, AutoCAD, 3d printing, etc. I'm just really interested in the 3d printing movement and decided to dive right in.

    I also ordered a Matter Control Touch which should be arriving tomorrow.

    My goal is to create things I can use for my hobbies and around the home. I also plan on using it to create personalized gifts and such.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    For my first "test" print with my R1 I downloaded a file from Thingiverse for a camera mount for mini quadcopter QAV250 Race Quad Kamera Mount for small 600 TVL Cameras, one of my hobbies.
    Basically used the default settings and cranked this print out in about 21 minutes. Quality was set to medium.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I think I will up the fill density the next time I print this to make it more sturdier. That would be the setting I would change right? For this print it was set to .25.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Don't get discouraged if things go south. Sorting problems can be a bit tricky and hopefully you don't encounter many.
    Looking good so far
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Fill density and shell thickness are the two to tweak for strength.
     
  5. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Thanks for the prompt reply and advice Mark! Where do I find shell thickness on the Matter Control program?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I can't help you with MatterControl.
    In Repetier/Slic3r it would be under the layer and perimeters tab for the slicer configuration.
    Top/Bottom layers and vertical layers (shells) are defined there.
     
  7. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Nice start. For a part like this, I'd probably pop it up to 100% infill.
    It looks like you don't have the first layer quite right. Check this out for a guide: printedsolid.com/firstlayer
     
  8. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Thanks for the advice gents!

    So printed a few more things. Second thing I printed was a hippo for my wife.

    It was suppose to look like this:
    [​IMG]

    Then this is what I came up with. I put the setting for "high" on this one.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    What's the best way to remove the support material?

    I also reprinted the FPV cam mount on high with a .75 infill. I'm happy with the way this turned out, a lot more sturdier.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then I tried to print another cam mount and for whatever reason it stopped mid print... I'm going to blame it on my computer going to sleep. So I've since changed that setting so that the drives don't sleep but the display will (Mac).

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Mike Kelly likes this.
  9. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I got a set of miniature files for removing support material and finishing the surface
     
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you can't afford software like Simplify3D that generates easy to remove supports (and even if you can, really) get something like this:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130918906321

    Use them with 25w soldering iron to easily cut and post process your prints.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Those make it easier to post-process the printed plastic.
     
  12. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    Generally speaking a thicker layer, poorer visual quality, yields a stronger print. It looks like you have the default layer thickness for top and bottom which leads to what is referred to as pillowing. If you increase the number of layers on the top surface so it is more like 1.2mm that will look a lot better.

    Lastly the USB connection on the Arduino board is awful and that may be why your print stopped. A lot of people have switched to printing from the SD card reader and/or installing an LCD screen to get away from it. I've had tremendous luck by bolting a bracket onto the side of the printer that holds the usb perfectly still.
     
  13. Droid

    Droid Member

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    mine stopped 2.5 hours into a 3 hour print, changes the setting on my computer so only the monitor will sleep and not the computer and haven't had a issue since.
     
  14. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    How does one change the number of layers on top/bottom surface? I'm still using MatterControl...

    And interesting about the USB connection...if it keeps happening I'll look into what you advise.

    Did the same, and haven't experienced a similar issue so fingers crossed. lol.

    Purchased a few things for the R1:

    [​IMG]
    Some files as suggested by Mike Kelly. :) Felt kinda odd walking around Michael's and Joann's crafts stores without my wife. lol.

    And mr R1 already seemed to be getting louder even with only 23 hours of print time in my less than first week of ownership. So I picked up some Singer All Purpose Machine oil. I've already noticed it is quieter. :thumbs up:

    And my first failed print!

    [​IMG]

    Found a buckle on Thingiverse to replace a broken buckle on a sleeping bag I own. Started the print before I left to run errands this morning and came home to this. Oh well... Not sure what happened either.
     
  15. Droid

    Droid Member

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    you should be able to find the top and bottom as well as perimeter setting in mattercontrol under advanced settings
     
  16. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Had a few issues lately with my R1. First one was the heated bed "pitted" seemingly when a print cooled and separeted itseflf rom the bed. Parts of the glass stuck to the bottom of the print. Called Robo3D customer service because I was concerned with how it would be handled. Customer service was courteous and refered me to the website Part replacement form. Filled that out and had a replacement bed in about a week.

    Pits in the bed:
    [​IMG]

    Pieces of the bed attached to the bottom of the print:
    [​IMG]

    New bed:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Only issue was that it seemed to be used and did not include the magnets that attach it to the bed mount. Had to knock the magnets off my original bed and put them on the new one. Its working though!

    Also, i bought this R1 in April. I saw on Novice Expert's Youtube channel that he bought an R1 recently and the bed connected via molex connector. I found mine did not have that molex connecter but it does have stabilizers in the inner shell for the z axis smooth rods. So it seems various improvements where made at different times in R1 production.
    while working out another issue with customer service about my hex extruder (ended up being nothing i guess because the problem did not occur again) I let them know the rubber boot on the extruder had cracked and separatedall the way through. And they sent me a new one!

    Still very satisfied with my R1!
     
    #16 Phenom3030, May 16, 2015
    Last edited: May 16, 2015
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Glad to hear it.
    You really do not want to use a molex connector. There is a discussion on this elsewhere about what connectors to use.
     
  18. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Thanks for the heads up Mark. Yea, I don't plan on adding a connector in line now. I don't plan on removing the bed frequently, so I'll leave it be.

    But the issue that I had that I thought ended up being nothing has returned. I started to have filament coming out of the rubber boot in many places. I sent Robo3D photos of it and they suggested some things to me and linked a video for reference. Basically I had to heat up the extruder then tighten the nozzle. I did so but didn't feel that it needed tightening. Problem was gone though. I just noticed that it is now back. Here's some photos:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Phenom3030 likes this.
  20. Phenom3030

    Phenom3030 Member

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    Thanks again for your help Mark. The second time I tried tightening the nozzle and block down I managed to sever a leg of the thermistor. :/
    Contacted Robo 3D and they are sending a new one. While waiting for them to respond to my mistake I ordered a E3D v6 and asked a Robo if installing it would void warranty and part replacement support. They said everything else would be covered but if something happens to the v6 id have to contact that vendor. So Hats reassuring. Not sure if I'll install the v6 yet though. Debating whether to take the hex apart, clean it up and give it another chance.

    Question for the pro's, should I just go with the v6 or give the hex a 3rd try?
     

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