1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Solved PLA delamination/layers not binding(infill and bottom layers)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Electonic, May 17, 2016.

Page 7 of 10
  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Any of them look like your current issue?
     
    #121 Geof, May 31, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    The edges look like Z banding. Is that what you are concerned with?
     
    #122 mark tomlinson, May 31, 2016
  3. Electonic

    Electonic Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2016
    Messages:
    110
    Likes Received:
    17
    The third one under extrusion looks like my problem. Upon further inspection of my print, the layers that mess up don't always make it to the outer shell. I'll post pics in a bit of my print that I just did as well as the infill of one, and I will print another one except with infill overlap at a higher %.

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
    #123 Electonic, May 31, 2016
  4. Electonic

    Electonic Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2016
    Messages:
    110
    Likes Received:
    17
    I'm concerned with whatever the sides have happening to them...Is it Z banding?
     
    #124 Electonic, May 31, 2016
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    The ribbing certainly is.
    That is discussed in depth here in a few threads.
    The only real solution for it is the leadscrew upgrade.
    I have one printer with that upgrade and another not. The banding on the 'not' one is not hideous so I am leaving it.
    Some have it quite bad.
     
    #125 mark tomlinson, May 31, 2016
  6. Electonic

    Electonic Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2016
    Messages:
    110
    Likes Received:
    17
    Yeah, I had Z ribbing when I had the printer working a little better, but basically, I just got my original problem again. I'm going to try speeding it way up. Like 70-80, maybe more, and see if that helps like last time.
    Thanks,
    Eric
     
    #126 Electonic, May 31, 2016
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Ok I'm following what's happening now. The infill still has me confused. If your doing minimum 1 mm top bottom and shell and 15% at least overlap I'd think you'd be good. The banding is something I'm not familiar with being an r1+ user but it does look just awful.
     
    #127 Geof, May 31, 2016
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Did you end up doing the leadscrew upgrade? I just re read the whole thread to catch back up lol. I couldn't recall everything lol.
     
    #128 Geof, May 31, 2016
  9. Electonic

    Electonic Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2016
    Messages:
    110
    Likes Received:
    17
    I have not done the upgrade. I have thought about it, but I wanted to get this problem fixed first. If it is the problem, then I'll think about getting it. I don't know, $100 just for somethings that should be working anyway? My printer was a special refurbished R1(for First Tech Challenge teams), and I was under the impression that it came with the lead screw upgrade already in place. Is there any way I can tell if I have it or not?
    anyways... My camera is having problems.(I forgot to charge it) so no pictures just yet.
    Thanks again,
    Eric
     
    #129 Electonic, May 31, 2016
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Hi Eric, no problem on the photos.

    To know if you have leadscrew said you'll look at your threaded rods. If there is a coupler (at the bottom of the threaded rod) that attaches them to the motor you do not have the leadscrew. If there are no couplers it will be a threaded shaft that runs all the way into the motor(into the case)
     
    #130 Geof, May 31, 2016
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    #131 Geof, May 31, 2016
    Electonic likes this.
  12. Electonic

    Electonic Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2016
    Messages:
    110
    Likes Received:
    17
    And I quote,
    Plug & Print
    Assembled and Calibrated ROBO R1 3D printer includes all new linear motion and lead screws for better quality, performance, and consistency. Also includes a better filament feeding system for ease of use. Additional components for leveling, guidance, and performance of the R1 Refurbished Printer make it the best option for desktop 3D Printing today. You will love it.
     
    #132 Electonic, May 31, 2016
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    That is interesting. I was not aware of any r1 models coming out with integrated lead screws. That is the major difference between the r1 and r1+
     
    #133 Geof, May 31, 2016
  14. Electonic

    Electonic Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2016
    Messages:
    110
    Likes Received:
    17
    #134 Electonic, May 31, 2016
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    I believe you are correct and have a refurbished r1. It gets very confusing with the models and differences. But what your saying and the photos does lead me to believe your having banding defects and a lead screwup grade would at least take care of that portion of your print quality.

    @mark tomlinson would know better As he has r1 (and done the leadscrew upgrade to one of them)

    As far as I'm aware no r1 model comes with the upgrade in place from the factory only the r1+
     
    #135 Geof, May 31, 2016
    mark tomlinson and Electonic like this.
  16. Electonic

    Electonic Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2016
    Messages:
    110
    Likes Received:
    17
    Im in EST, so I'll post pics tomorrow.
    Thanks for all your input.
    Eric
     
    #136 Electonic, May 31, 2016
    Geof likes this.
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    If they are advertising them as 'R1' I'd suspect no leadscrew upgrade since as @Geof mentions with the leadscrew it is functionally an 'R1+' They might as well advertise it that way.
     
    #137 mark tomlinson, Jun 1, 2016
    Geof likes this.
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    I'm reading through that link you posted and I'm seeing the confusion. It looks like the R1 and R1+ descriptions are the same or very close to it. The R1 does not have the integrated lead screws that did away with the z banding. The R1+ does have the integrated leadscrews. The solution is to buy the integrated lead screws or do that alternative to lead screws post link I gave you. I dont know of any other solutions :-(
     
    #138 Geof, Jun 1, 2016
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    There are no complete solutions.
    If you search for Z banding threads there are a number of them and a few with suggestions to mitigate it, but the only complete solution is the switch to leadscrews.
     
    #139 mark tomlinson, Jun 1, 2016
  20. Electonic

    Electonic Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2016
    Messages:
    110
    Likes Received:
    17
    Ok, so I printed this spool holder. I believe I'm having another heating/cooling problem.

    I noticed the part that holds the spool itself at the top right of the picture printed nicer than the rest of the model. This print had no cooling fan, so when it was printing the nicer looking part it printed slower.
    I'm going to try to print something else in case this is a model error.
    Also, my internet gets slow at the end of the month until it starts again on the 5th. So I'll have to give a link for the picture.
    Thanks,
    Eric

    http://s33.postimg.org/frlyjf4vj/IMG_6696_1.jpg
     
    #140 Electonic, Jun 1, 2016
Page 7 of 10

Share This Page