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Solved PLA delamination/layers not binding(infill and bottom layers)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Electonic, May 17, 2016.

  1. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Give it a shot and keep us posted
     
  2. Electonic

    Electonic Member

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    Alright, so this print is slower, with the infill at 55mm/s, shells at 50mm/s, first layer at 30mm/s and top/bottom shells at 45mm/s.
    can the bed be too hot for PLA and make it stick/not stick to the filament being extruded?
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    PLA does not require bed heat to adhere, although a nominal amount of heat can help it stick.
    Too hot might make it prone to pulling off, but that is a S.W.A.G. since I have done no research into that :)
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I can tell you i had one spool that acted wierd above 50 c. All my other spools are fine unless i break 70 on the bed. Tbey just look crappy :) 50-0 seems to work all the time. Your temos will vary but thats a good ball park
     
  5. Electonic

    Electonic Member

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    Ok, so I printed 2 20mm cubes. One of them has the extrusion multiplier set to 85%, and the other 105%. The 105% measures 17.5mm while the 85% measures 20.7mms, but the 85% one had gaps in the top layer, suggesting that the extrusion multiplier needed to be higher. Other than that they printed ok. Heres some pictures

    Why do these print ok but the other ones don't?
    20.7mm(or 85%) http://s33.postimg.org/8ms4gokq7/IMG_6709_1.jpg
    17.5mm(or 105%) http://s33.postimg.org/gxlqtvg8f/IMG_6710_1.jpg
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Im pretty sure this has veen asked already but if you extrude 100mm of filament you actually use 100mm right ?
     
  7. Electonic

    Electonic Member

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    As of right now(still with the 105%) If I extrude 100mm, I get around 90mm, with this new filament it could be a little bigger than 1.75 right?
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes you have to measure your filament over a few feet an input the average of those measurements into your slicer. This only affects print quality. When you extrude 100mm you should get 100mm. If you dont you need to calibrate (correct way) or as a test fogure up what your under or over extruding tweak the multiplier enter in your filament diameter and try that cube again. If it looks good you need to calibrate the extruder steps.
     
  9. Electonic

    Electonic Member

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    I'm working on printing another cube right now. I'll post pics when done.
     
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  10. Electonic

    Electonic Member

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  11. Electonic

    Electonic Member

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    I was watching a print, and it appears that every now and then, the Z axis somehow gets higher than it should be, and then it prints regularly, then it jumps again. Could this be improper firmware?

    Edit: Just realized that the squares printed without this issue, as well as one or two models before that. In a minute I'm gonna switch the printer cables I'm using.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yea if its hesitating def try a different cable or a powered hub, may not ba a issue but worth a shot
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not really, if the firmware had an incorrect parameter (say for example the Z steps/mm was incorrect for your machine) then the Z would be consistently off and not work under any circumstances.
     
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  14. Electonic

    Electonic Member

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    Ok, so It's in the settings somewhere. I'll make another profile and try to print with the default settings. Can either of you upload a S3D profile so I can weed through it? I know Cura's profiles can be sent in txt form.
    Thanks,
    Eric
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I can upload a fff but if you dont have simplify it wont be worth it. If i can figure out how i can do screen shots from my laptop lol. Im not very good with it...it has 2 jobs... run s3d and fusion 360. Give me a minute
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    here are my screen shots
     

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  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Here you go, but I use a volcano with 0.8 nozzle so the nozzle and layer sizes (and likely print speeds) will be wrong for you.

    @Geof might have one closer to stock.
     

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  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    mine is an E3D standard .4 nozzle PLA profile that I uploaded. Print temp and speed vary by machine but it will give you ballparks.
     
  19. Electonic

    Electonic Member

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    Thanks guys. It's finally working! The Z ribbing is still there(and very noticable), but the print is the dimensions it should be and doesn't pull apart like the other prints did.
    This is an Iphone case with a scorpion design that I printed. The Z ribbing looks worse in the photo that it does just looking at it here. I guess lines like that makes a cool pattern? lol.
    http://s33.postimg.org/497tj3bz3/IMG_6717.jpg
    Another quesion I have is when the print starts, it drags the print head over from the last G29 point, and leaves a line of filament on the bed that ends up on the bottom of print. Is there some sort of Gcode I can give it to raise from the last point, then move to the skirt, then lower back to the bed?

    I'll post a couple of pics in the morning after this current prints done.

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Excellent.

    If you want to completely remove the Z ribbing from an R1 or Beta you need to upgrade the Z axis to the leadscrews (which are what the R1+ has).
     
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