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Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Jeffrey Wheeless, Apr 28, 2016.

  1. Jeffrey Wheeless

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    I have a e3d v6 setup in my robo 3d r1 printer and it works great to a point. I have everything setup as expected and properly but for some reason when my printers fan kicks on to cool down my print's most recent layer the thermistor registers that it has been chilled and begins to plummet in temperature. This causes the printer to launch an error and cancel the current print.

    When I attempt to bypass this and turn off the fan the print will work but the layers turn into a molten lava like substance that doesn't look nice and doesn't function very well, so the fan seems very necessary. After looking around the various forums on numerous sites no one else seems to have this issue and its beginning to make me wonder if its something that I have done; despite me following the instructions to the letter and even redoing everything with a new kit.

    I have yet to be able to tell if the heat block is cooling that quickly or if the thermistor is getting a cool breeze on it (mainly because I cant think of a good way to test for that). My previous print head had a what could best be described as a molded and pliable rtv shield all the way around it to seemingly protect this sort of thing from happening, but I cannot find what material it is made of or where to get more of it.

    Am I crazy, is this something that has ever happened before? There is less than 1% chance of there being a short in my wires and Ive exhausted all my options to the point where I'm asking for help from people that work at NASA and other such high production places. Please help I've already spent way more than I should of and I'm starting to feel insane.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The E3D v6 comes with a 25w heater core.
    If the parts fan is blowing on the extruder or nozzle (rather than on the part) then the heater probably will not be able to keep up.

    I suggest (as before) replacing the 25w core with 40w cores. You can find them on eBay or Amazon really cheap.

    http://www.amazon.com/TOOTO-Reprap-Ceramic-Cartridge-Printer/dp/B019Q6AN96

    The hexagon has a 30w if my memory serves.
     
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  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Mine did the same thing eventually. What maaterial are you printing and what temps?

    I replaced the heater with a 40watt one and I think its all good now. more power
     
  4. Jeffrey Wheeless

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    next "daying" right now. Well I've been using pla because i had a lot on hand (the good stuff not the cheaper stuff). As for the temp I was printing at 215 - 220 but I discovered that some friends were using it at about 350 and melted the fan that came with the setup onto the heater block. So ill have to scrap that off in order to change out for this new part. You thing there would be some sort of insulation you could have for the side that faces the fan so this isn't an issue.

    With the new heater should I run the whole new cable or should I be fine to just the waterproof JES dudes I have setup now? Many thanks for the quick replies as well
     
  5. mark tomlinson

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    Running the new cable directly or using connectors is almost a religious issue. Almost.
    If you use connectors rated better than the AMPS the heater can pull you are fine with connectors.
     
  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Anything hotter than 215C for PLA is too hot. Most of us print closer to 195 with no problems (well, those of us with working printers to begin with).

    Also 350C is hotter than anything you'd ever want to print and if your printer actually attempted to reach that temperature instead of immediately objecting and shutting down there is a problem.
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Unless someone modified the firmware max temp to something silly I agree.



    (some materials are over 300c, but darn few and if you need to print that you will know what you are doing -- 350 is silly.)
     
  8. Jeffrey Wheeless

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    oh they did, they changed the max temp to 500 and set it way high and didnt see the problem and i came running when i smelled smoke only to realize that the fan's housing was melting onto the block. After that incident I've printed big block letters with the words "Dont go above 260" and stuck it to the printer.

    I think for the time being I'll run the wire so I can get it all working properly, and then if I regret not having a disconnect I'll attach one later.

    So you guys dont have to print it out at 215? Ive found myself using 215 as a min for most times but only ever going as high as 225; granted I'm fairly new and i guess more inexperienced that I thought.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The larger heater core might very well tweak your print settings as well.
     
  10. Jeffrey Wheeless

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    I got the parts you recommended and I followed the wiring guide according to Scott Kelly (pardon if misspelled, and sorry if so) and it seems to of fixed the problem, but opened the door to a new one. Now there is no input on if the element should heat up it just does the second the printer turns on and continues to until it hits the max temp or I turn the printer off. No clipping of the wires was done, but did I make a mistake connecting it to d10 or is there a firmware thing I skipped over in regards to the heater.
     
  11. Jeffrey Wheeless

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    Also if anyone out there is wondering the element got up to a registered 750 degrees before cut off. Not sure if it was accurate but when the element was outside of the block the metal did turn cherry. In case that helps anyone for some wierd reason.
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

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    The firmware should have killed it at MAX TEMP (configuration.h):

    // When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
    // This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
    // You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
    #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 290 //robo
    #define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
    #define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
    #define BED_MAXTEMP 110


    Not sure what yours is set to...
     
  13. mark tomlinson

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    It starts to sounds as though you have a bad RAMPS or something is wrong with the wiring such that the heater is always on.
    Do you have voltage on those pins from the RAMPS as soon as the printer is on?
     
  14. Jeffrey Wheeless

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    Multimeter reads like 12.10 volts when warming on the waterproof guys. Is a good debugging for this to wire another of the heater to the waterproof guy and see if it can be controlled that way.

    In case I didn't say it, I did disconnect the other wires from d10 prior to connecting these ones
     
  15. mark tomlinson

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    I rather assumed that, but good to know :)
    D10 should only have power when the extruder is heating

    Robo3D R1 +Plus Ramps Board (labeled).jpg
     
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  16. Jeffrey Wheeless

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    It is possible that I could of sparked the connector a little at some point. Might that of done some major damage? Also your board doesn't look anything like mine but general points ate the same
     
  17. mark tomlinson

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  18. mark tomlinson

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    It sounds like the MOSFET for that channel has fried open.
     
  19. Jeffrey Wheeless

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    So very stupid question but technically it is still heating just not stopping so could I still print with it? Do you have like a Amazon list of all the stuff because so far it has all proven inifinatly useful
     
  20. mark tomlinson

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