1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Power left to add LED to R3D

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by -PC, Oct 10, 2013.

  1. Das Wookie

    Das Wookie Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    38
    I believe the power supply is 30 amps... the R3D is only using about half of that. 11a for the heated bed, and ~5a for the print head and steppers. There should be LOTS of power left in the supply.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,962
    Likes Received:
    7,344
    I added a blue strip for 'ambient' lighting when power is on and a switch to turn on a set of three bright whites near the print head (that illuminate the print area). Works really sweet. PICT0705.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,962
    Likes Received:
    7,344
    BTW: powered both of these off of the 12v tap on the power supply. LEDS are not a huge draw--even the super-brights.
     
  4. Das Wookie

    Das Wookie Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    38
    Blue?! Wow... I dunno if that would be cook or drive me insane. I suspect the latter, but that's me. :)
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,962
    Likes Received:
    7,344
    Hey! The strip was cheap :)
    I didn't feel like assembling my own and white seemed, well, too plain.

    The three super-brights aimed at the head are way more useful in a practical sense. I am always hitting the button to turn them on when I walk by.
     
  6. jdumbaugh

    jdumbaugh Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2013
    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    6
    3 people like this.
  7. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    534
    looks very nice
     
  8. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2013
    Messages:
    766
    Likes Received:
    229
    Is it possible for the LED to turn on and off depending it it's extruding and turn off when it's migrating to a new position?

    It would look like you have a laser!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2013
    Messages:
    1,924
    Likes Received:
    534
    ohhh cool idea I may trry that on mine I have extra led packs I could hook it to the extruder signalling. have to check it out because there is a retract signal also
     
  10. -PC

    -PC Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2013
    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    11
    hi gang,

    Does anyone know how to remove the power block (AC/DC)???
    I was trying to attach my LED to it but I cant reach the terminal screws.

    Where have you guys attaching the power for the LEDs????

    cheers
     
  11. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Messages:
    6,967
    Likes Received:
    2,278
    I added terminal blocks in line with my power supply wires. I was never able to figure out how to remove the psu so I just snipped the wires in the middle and added the terminal block in line.

    The other alternative is to connect it to the input power for the ramps board. That's what I did at first and it worked fine as well.
     
    2 people like this.
  12. -PC

    -PC Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2013
    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    11
  13. Thundersticks

    Thundersticks New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2013
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    6
    I added four rows of cool white 5050 LEDs running off the spare power supply output. Also running them with a dimmer so I can turn them down or off. Installed a couple sockets so I can easily remove the cover by unplugging a short cable.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Sent from my iPad 2 using Tapatalk HD
     
    2 people like this.
  14. -PC

    -PC Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2013
    Messages:
    87
    Likes Received:
    11
    nice​
     
    2 people like this.
  15. Thundersticks

    Thundersticks New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2013
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    6
    I forgot to mention, the power block slides right out. I takes a good amount of pressure, but it does slide out, no screws or attachments. When you do this disconnect the power end from the driver board, the cable is pretty short and you could put unneeded stress on the connector if you drop the power supply.
     
  16. splk3

    splk3 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2013
    Messages:
    91
    Likes Received:
    33
    Power supply removes by sliding it - it is just a really tight pressure fit inside the unit. I recommend attaching any 12V wires to the leads to the control board instead - easy to remove, add wires, and re-attach.

    I used some old speaker wire and connected a strip of these from amazon to the underside of the top cover around the opening and it works great - so much easier to work with and turns on/off with the main RoBo switch.
     
  17. SoLongSidekick

    SoLongSidekick Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2014
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    68
    The new Y axis upgrade kit and the newer versions of the R1 (not released yet) have blue LEDs under the bed.

    I just ordered some supplies yesterday for a pretty extensive mod I am going to install. Once I brush up on my Arduino skills I should have some lighting that changes once a build is complete, plus some other minor goodies. I'll post my setup here once I finish it up.
     

Share This Page