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Solved Print head going too low during larger prints

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by darcangeloel, May 16, 2016.

  1. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Hi everyone,

    I'm not sure what is causing this so I'll try to be as detailed as possible. I'm printing this T-Rex shower head on Medium settings in Matter Control (I think this is my first mistake but bear with me.) The print turns out really nice and I mean super smooth and this is with no support (Although I did use a raft with 50% infill, no supports. Each time the printer gets to about 89 percent of the way done, something happens and the Z axis gets lowered so far the X axis bars get caught on the print and then the Z end limit switches get moved and then the carriage never sits back on top of them. Then I return and I have a really nice 3d print which is 90% of the way complete and the printer making weird grinding noises and a big ball of filament (Which kind of made me laugh the first time but now not so much). I've done this twice as I thought perhaps the Z axis rods needed some lubrication. I did this for the Z and X axis and still have the same problem. Both of these prints have been in excess of 16 hours. I'm not sure if that could be an issue as well. As a note the Autolevel feature seems to be working really well. Here are some ideas but, I have no idea if these are valid...

    Printer: Robo 3d R1 Autolevel (I bought it refurbished)

    1. The G_Code is bad - Perhaps somethinig in matter control went weird when I exported this to my sd card? I guess I could go line by line and look at it?

    2. The discount reprap controller I'm using is telling the printer to do something odd/wrong - I brought a cheapo LCD controller off amazon and I have had no problems with it. Install was a breeze.

    3. Something is wrong with the printer? - I've printed tons of other items without issue very recently and up until a certain point the print turns out prefect (Like honestly its prefect and very high quality).

    Any thoughts here would be greatly appreciated,

    Thiniverse link, I'm printing the V2 version using mattercontrol.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329596
     
  2. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    As a note, I am noticing once the file attempts to render it throws the error "g code to large to render in matter control" perhaps I should try using Cura? Maybe the file size is too large and once it gets a certain perfect done it runs out of memory or something and doesn't know where to tell the print head to go. The file size is 96.7 mb. (That seems huge for a 3d print) does anyone know what the upper bound is on file size for prints?)
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Depends on the software you are using and memory installed on the machine.
    I have no idea what MC has for limitations.
    You could always ask over here:http://forums.matterhackers.com

    Once sliced a complex model can become quite a large chunk of GCode.
    The software (MaterControl in your case) usually tries to load the entire file before shipping it over to the printer.
    Some (like pronterface) can be configured not to, but at the cost of some features.
     
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  4. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    This turned out to be an issue with the G-Code. For what ever reason matter control went crazy. I re-did it and now its working correctly.
     
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  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Matter control was very finiky for me. Most issues that arise are due to it. There is a good thread on setting up cura(also free) may help aleviate some alicer headaches. Ive moved onto to simplify 3d but you should give the free ones a go as they may fit your needs
     
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  6. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Thanks Geof, I think thats good advice. I like Cura, for what ever reason I can't seem to get it out of my mind that Matter Control isn't owned by Robo 3d and built for Robo3d (I guess because it's what they recommend is why I got familiar with it). I love the subtract features in Simplify 3d for adding stencils to things like phone cases or adding raised lettering to different objects. One slightly off topic question. Do you know of any good hot end cleaners? I'd prefer not to bake it or put it on the grill as others have mentioned. Maybe some chemical exists which does a good job cleaning it so I don't have to disassemble it?
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    You mean when you have jams?
     
  8. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    No not exactly, I added a 40mm fan to my stock extruder and I haven't had a Jam since. More so as preventative maintenance to make the extruder last longer. Also do you know of any "Printer Care" or "Printer Maintenance" guides for the Robo 3D? IE How long should I go between applying grease to the different axis's? Or other things I should check for. It's an odd question but I hope you can bear with me becuase I bought a refurbished printer and it seems like whom ever had it before me didn't take very good care of it. Lots of Robo Maintenance :)
     
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    So that is more of an opinion then a rule but here we go :).

    I run an oiler for pla and i run it on all filaments... does it help.probably not but im to lazy to remove it and it doesnt hurt.

    When switching filaments types i use esun filament cleaner. I do a cold pull then feed it throughuntil it comes out clean.

    Every friday i clean then grease and oil my mechanicals and do an inspection on the printer. Bed for chips, belt tight, x level, switches seated, fans all running and clean (i use gairspray and am not careful lol) etc

    Bear in mind im a maintenance guy and use to pm schedules so i probably overdue it but if its good for a 500k commercial inserter than it cant hurt our little mini factories lol.
     
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    A little TLC goes a long way. They are not ball-point pens, but slightly more complex machines :)
     
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  11. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Haha.... They should have a disclaimer on them that says "Warning, will take up a ton of time and force you to learn the ins and outs of 3d printing" for some reason I was under the delusion that it would be almost like an inkjet when I bought it (Stupid I know). It's been fun though, you can build some awesome stuff with it. I can't wait to try wood PLA.

    In reference to the maintenance you do on Friday (And I realize this would be asking alot :) ). Do you have sort of a how to guide/ check list you go over? My point being, I'm not sure if I'm putting the grease on the right parts or using the right type of grease (I'm all ears if you have a suggestion) also what spare parts do you have on hand that you have found you constantly need to replace.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Anything that has a moving part on it (any rod that something travels along and has bearings) needs to be lubricated periodically.
    That will make the bearings last longer (so less maintenance -- replacing the bearings is not a 'bear', but not fun either)

    The way I decide is like this:
    1) Slow speed movement, use light grease (http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300243-Specialist-Lithium-Grease/dp/B00L35DAWQ or http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA)
    2) High speed movement use light machine oil (http://www.amazon.com/3---ONE-10038-Multi-Purpose-Pack/dp/B0083V8MAS)

    So X & Y rods get oil, Z rods get grease. Could you use the grease on both? Absolutely. I wouldn't use oil on the Z since you would be reapplying it too often :)

    My links are examples.
     
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  13. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Thanks for the advice. I think these are good suggestions. What spare parts do you think I should keep on hand. Do you have any good links to replacements for belts and bearings? Also do you have any links for a walk through on replacing bearings and motors?
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I use 3 in one oil on all my metal rods and shafts but i do maintenance at minimum on fridays, seems dome weeks fepending on print hours ill do wednesday too. I dont really have a checklist i just go through anything that moves check for play make sure the hotend is secure i wipe off the rods and shafts then apply the 3 in 1 oil. I should use grease .... but this has worked for me so far with no negative impact lol. The grease is much superior. I have used all the parts mark suggests and they are great. And who doesnt love amazon !
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The only spares ive constantly needed is nozzles... and thats not constant. I like to have 5 of each size i run but im a freak for spares lol.

    I think im a year into my robo and have upgraded the hotend, added the lcd controller, replaced the ramps and power supply.
     
  16. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Thanks for all the advice. The replacement parts you guys suggested look awesome and its nice to know they work on R1 Robo printers. While I'm still askijg questions :). I cracked the hex portion of the hotend being stupid trying to bend it back into shape (I know, I know what a bone head lol) do you guys know of any replacements for just that part? I personally don't care if it's the hex kind or a round one. Do you think these would fit into my stock robo 3d r1 autolevel hotend?
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Z8...36_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hotend+heatsink


    Or buy this just for the heat break part and keep the other parts on hand for super emergencies?

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010MZ8RKW/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?qid=1463526722&sr=8-19-
    spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hotend+hexagon&psc=1&smid=A1ZFVBA0AM06D3
     
  17. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Just curious did you upgrade those parts because they were broken or just for fun/improved print quality.
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I hate to say it but either replace the unit with a hexagon or go with a higher end hotend :) the e3dv6 im running works great and i love it.

    The hex are cheap like 40 but a better hotend is under 80. You will need to have some printed parts to adaprt a new hotend.
     
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  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Lcd xontroller so i can export my file to an sd card and run the printer through a screen i stead of hooked to a computer. I hated the onboard sd.

    E3d hotend.... i went through 4 or 5 hexagon hotends then was tired of of not being able to buy parts and wanted to run flexible filament so i bought the e3d :)

    Ramps and power supply failed.
     

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