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Solved problems with ripples ?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Spidematt, Jan 25, 2017.

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  1. Spidematt

    Spidematt Member

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    Ok so i have searched the forums here this time and tried everything I have read and i cant seem to get rid of these ripples. I have all the belts tight o got rid of the glass on the bed i was printing on i adjusted the acceleration on the lcd screen to 500 and jerk to 10 ive slowed down the print ive made sure all grears are tight and any help would be greatly appreciated i can still make functional prints it just bothers me that its doing this.I have e3dv6 hotend and the xxl controller also have a cable chain installed which i might un install and see if that makes difference. this is abs but it does it to all materials i have used and im talking about the ripples after the holes and door and the edge where it sticks out and goes upward. ripples.jpg
     
    #1 Spidematt, Jan 25, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Assuming you calibrated the extruder probably retraction and coasting are the only things left I can think of that would impact that.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Jan 25, 2017
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    P.S. you picture is too small to make out what you are really complaining about very well :)
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Jan 25, 2017
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  4. Spidematt

    Spidematt Member

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    20170125_170737.jpg
     
    #4 Spidematt, Jan 25, 2017
  5. Spidematt

    Spidematt Member

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    hopefully this is better ill look up coasting this is first i heard about it
     
    #5 Spidematt, Jan 25, 2017
  6. Spidematt

    Spidematt Member

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    still having problems if i slow down to about 20 mms it does get better anyone have any ideas going to look up stepper driver tuning and maybe attempt adjusting that not sure how normal it is to have to do that.
     
    #6 Spidematt, Jan 26, 2017
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    While it is remotely possible the stepper driver could be the cause that is usually hardware. Drive lash is the normal culprit. I have made ut a habit to tear down and loctite all drive components in the robos I touch. I am sure most reprap style have the same issue.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Jan 26, 2017
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  8. Spidematt

    Spidematt Member

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    how tight do you get youre belts I designed a belt holder for the stock carriage and its on thingiverse i got it pretty tight with this is there such a thing as too tight
     
    #8 Spidematt, Jan 26, 2017
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes.. you can get it too tight. It should thrum like a low guitar string.

    Again make darn sure the drive cogs for the belts are secure and have their set screws firmly in place. Those are often the problem and are less obvious.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Jan 26, 2017
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  10. Spidematt

    Spidematt Member

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    the cogs seemed as tight as i could get them the y axis is hard to get too its to low to get a direct shot at it but I think i got it pretty good I actually loosened the y axis belt a good amount just to see and it didn't make any difference in the print
     
    #10 Spidematt, Jan 26, 2017
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The x should twang when you pluck it, not thud
     
    #11 Geof, Jan 26, 2017
  12. Spidematt

    Spidematt Member

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    still trying to fix it managed to improve it from settings and got some belt springs but they dont seem to do much just a quick question what speed do you guys print youre outer shell at ? and what is youre jerk setting at ? just getting some averages i know everyones different
     
    #12 Spidematt, Jan 27, 2017
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    well, speed and jerk are probably less person/printer dependent than temperatures :)

    My acceleration and jerk setting are far less than stock. Acceleration at 1/5 of what the defaults were and jerk somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2. Speed is a bit filament dependent too...
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Jan 28, 2017
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Shell at 80mm/s, jerk 15, accell 800... This is .2 layers easy models. Complicated or detailed models I drop down everything including temp. You have to experiment to find what you like best
     
    #14 Geof, Jan 28, 2017
  15. Spidematt

    Spidematt Member

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    wow 80mms thats pretty fast i havent attempted anything over 60. thank you guys for all youre help im just calling it as good as its gonna get I have an prusa mk2 coming with the multimaterial kit and when i get that setup im going to strip this down and clean it real good. and add a toranado extruder see how that works out .im getting good prints if i go real slow i guess i was expecting to much it takes about 2 hours for a benchy if i want it with little to no ripples at .2
     
    #15 Spidematt, Jan 28, 2017
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    A benchy is meant to take some time. Lots of different things going on in a small print.
     
    #16 Geof, Jan 28, 2017
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Depends on the detail level. At .2mm layer height and a 0.4 nozzle with standard speeds the benchy will take between 15-30 minutes.
    Go to a 0.1 layer height and it will more than double. Everything adds up. With the way I was printing it on my delta last it was over an hour to print the little thing
     
    #17 mark tomlinson, Jan 28, 2017
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