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PROTOFACTOR INC's C2's print results

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by PROTOFACTOR INC, Dec 22, 2016.

  1. supernovae

    supernovae Member

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    If anyone could print a benchy maybe in red or dark blue or something that shows the print detail (yellow is hard to get resolution on) that would be great.. even if its just detailed photos of the finished benchy.

    I too have a pre-order on R2 and i'm weighing it against ordering the MK2 as well.
     
  2. IBot07

    IBot07 New Member

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    I was thinking between the MK2 and R2 as well but I ended up going with the R2 due to the CoreXY design. I think that after having a Pursa style printer in the past that the CoreXY design of the R2 is a better overall design.
     
  3. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    What do you mean by "CoreXY design"?
     
  4. supernovae

    supernovae Member

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  5. supernovae

    supernovae Member

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    Yup, the corexy design, enclosed print area and 2nd extruder capability is exactly what I was looking for. Sadly I see the store now lists late February for delivery.. wonder if that is just new orders or if they pushed it a month.. don't mind them working out the bugs but if a delay is that long the email your prepaid pre orders :)
     
  6. Chad Gasaway

    Chad Gasaway New Member

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    Well CoreXY was one of the major factors for me as well. I too feel like it is a better platform. That and of course the fact that the 3d printer might get my wifes approval due to the fact that it looks decent ;-). I would throw laser engraving in there as something I was interested in as well. ;-)

    So there is a good bit to be excited about but for me but at the end of the day, it has to print and print well. Alexa, iphone app, cameras, duel extrusion and a pretty chassis don't mean a whole lot if it does not accomplish it's core mission. That is where I have to weigh the value of the printer especially considering that printers like the Prusa I3 Mk2 can be had for $500 less than I paid for the R2. Saving $500 is worth the tradeoff of a not so attractive printer with superb print quality. The other features are pretty much "nice to haves" and I will probably end up not using them most of the time.

    I went into this Kickstarter giving Robo3d my trust that they will communicate effectively about the R2. We have had nothing that provides us an idea of the printing performance of the machine. We have not even heard if we will have the option for the second extruder when it ships. Lots of questions right now for something that had an original delivery date of January.

    I do not mean to change the tone of the thread and I am checking this thing out almost every hour for the next update eagerly waiting to see the C2's print with different filaments and settings. Thanks to Protofactor, Jeff and others for sharing with us. I can't speak for others but I can't get enough of this stuff right now and it has helped my confidence allot in the printer I have decided on. Especially the lattice cube video because I have seen great printers totally botch that print. C2 handled it very well it seemed.

    Hopefully Robo will give us some R2 love soon!!
     
    #86 Chad Gasaway, Jan 3, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2017
    IBot07 likes this.
  7. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    I'm in line to get my R2 from its first Kickstarter batch. Due to the parts delay that pushed out the C2, I'm not expecting mine until February.

    I agree - I like the overall design and hopefully the software will be stable when I take delivery. The recent video examples I've seen look great. But yeah, some close up, in focus photos would be nice. Hopefully someone will buy some decent filament and post results.
     
  8. PROTOFACTOR INC

    PROTOFACTOR INC New Member

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    Looks like robo totally screwed up my filament delivery... had to run to Lake forest and buy some decent filament at Matterhacker... made a first print with it. Will post some close up tomorrow. It was a CSGo badge I created for my step son's airsoft outfit .... Result was decent. Just had a little bit of warping because on portion of the print wouldn't stick well to the build plate... still tweaking around temperature, print speed etc... to make sure the first layer really sticks... it's tough to find the right balance... part of the learning process... will be printing another detailed character this week as well. I also have a painted golem I could show. But this one had over extruded layer lines,showing. Not too terrible but still, can't wait to print with the new filament I got.
     
    Ed Ferguson likes this.
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @PROTOFACTOR INC there are a couple of trains of thought on how to get the right first layer. I am for using the software to do it for you others (actually many others) use a more mechanical method. The mechanical way is to use Z-Offset alone, Robo even advocates that if you look at their OctoPrint web interface they include a way to set Z-Offset. It works and you can get good adhesion with most materials. I don't like that way of doing it as it will introduce an error in the 1st layer height, so I use the slicer settings only.

    If I print something and my layer height is set to 0.25 mm I want every layer to be 0.25 mm, including the first one. I set Z-Offset so that I get exactly the layer height I specify in the slicer; not more, not less. Once that is set, there is no need to touch it again. Using Cura or Simplify3D or Slic3r you adjust the first layer only to provide proper bed adhesion.

    In Cura's advanced setting there is a setting named Initial layer line width (%), it is usually set at 100%. It is basically an extrusion multiplier that only works on the first layer. If you are using correct layer heights and do not get enough plastic extruded to increase adhesion, just increase this percentage. I would not increase it more than 1% or 2% at a time.

    In S3D you set it in the FFF settings under the Layer tab in the First Layer Settings box. There you will find a First Layer Width listed as a percentage defaulting to 100%, again it changes the layer width by physically forcing more plastic through the orifice which works as a extrusion multiplier. By increasing this number you can force better bed adhesion without modifying layer height.

    In Slic3r, under Print Settings in the Advanced section in the Extrusion Width area there is a selection called First Layer: expressed as either a 0 or some percentage. Again playing with that percentage can increase or decrease bed adhesion.

    All this without changing the first layer height.

    Of course choice of filament can also contribute to adhesion problems and warping, but in general you should be able to get most things to stick with the right surface preparation and the correct flow amounts. Good luck with you C2!
     
    Ed Ferguson and PROTOFACTOR INC like this.
  10. JjD

    JjD New Member

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    IMG_0679.JPG
    I placed a large rubber band. Seemed to work. Was popping out and Getting tangled.

     
  11. ronaldXJT

    ronaldXJT New Member

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    Hi folks. Got my C2 up and running in minutes with no issues. Pretty solid and slick looking machine. The packaging and presentation is great, it even impressed my wife that usually doesn't care about my toys. She asked if it was made by Apple =)

    Only nuisance until now is the screen, but you sort of get use to it - (also, I didn't need more help than the quick start guide but the imprint material urge you to go check the website for more documentation that is not yet available)

    After loading the filament and a quick calibration, I was ready to send something to the printer.
    On the network "page" i set up the machine as a "wifi hotspot", and from my computer I opened Octoprint on my browser and let Cura slice Sonia Verdu's cat (You can find it on Pinshape, I was not allowed to provide a direct link, due to the forums spam filter).

    IMG_1869.JPG

    I used the medium PLA settings. It's a really nice result out of the box. Now I will start playing with other filaments and Simplify3D. But my first impression of the C2 is quite positive!
     

    Attached Files:

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  12. PROTOFACTOR INC

    PROTOFACTOR INC New Member

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    thanks a ot for sharing precious info! I will definitely look into that. Will also purchase Simplify3D. Looks like it's really a no brainer when it comes to handling precise and specific parts of a print.

     
  13. IBot07

    IBot07 New Member

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    Simplify3D is great but the trick will be getting the printer profile setup. Simplify3D will help you make a profile if you contact them. They were really helpful when I got a printer that wasn't in Simplify3D yet.
     
  14. PROTOFACTOR INC

    PROTOFACTOR INC New Member

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    I already contacted them... They said i would need to ask Robo to contact them for the specs etc in order for them to build a profile. I guess I know what to do know... :)
     
  15. IBot07

    IBot07 New Member

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    If you can get the printer profile exported from Cura they should be able to make it from that. I know they did that for me once when I was able to export it from MatterControl.
     
  16. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    "In Cura's advanced setting there is a setting named Initial layer line width (%), it is usually set at 100%."

    I've been using this method as well on my R1+ with great results. In Cura I use an Initial layer line width of 110%.
     
  17. Jeff Aronowitz

    Jeff Aronowitz New Member

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  18. Chad Gasaway

    Chad Gasaway New Member

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    Looks great!! Thanks for sharing.
     
  19. ronaldXJT

    ronaldXJT New Member

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    First print using Simplify3D =). I imported the FFF profile from Robo3D that user "WheresWaldo" linked to in a previous post (se the url in the screendump, I'm not yet allowed to add links to my posts).
    Screen Shot 2017-01-05 at 16.52.04.png

    Sliced and printed using the "fast" configuration, and got a quite accurate model. The outside perimeter of my part is modelled to be 2mm. In the resulting print it is 2.009mm. =)

    This part is a casing for two servos and after removing a small rim due to the first layer being slightly flattened, the servos fitted in quite tightly.

    This compares favourably to what I can get out of an Ultimaker 2 regarding precision/accuracy for mechanical parts.

    Fil_000.jpeg
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Glad I could help.

    Now I could use some help from any C2 owner. I am trying to figure out what open source software was used in what combination on the embedded RPi on the C2. If someone would be so kind as to image the microSD card that plugs into the RPi and send me a link to it I would be very grateful. Something like Win32DiskImager will copy the file system in it's entirety. The resulting file will be as big as the microSD used and likely not email-able, so a cloud file repository like Dropbox, Google Drive, Microsoft OneDrive, Box or similar site might be needed.

    I would be very appreciative and it would go a long way to assisting me in getting us old R1 users up to your levels.
     
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