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question when changing out hot end nozzles

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by supercazzola, Nov 28, 2017.

  1. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    On the Hex hot end, I bought a hardened nozzle from printed matter and have a question about what is better:

    Is the correct way to remove both sides (nozzle and heatsink) out of the threaded rectangular piece, then install the nozzle so it is flush and good and tight, and then tighten the top piece / pipe down so it is flush?

    It seems if I just remove the old nozzle, that the new one is larger, and would stick out more. I guess what I am asking is does it matter, as long as the two pieces meet nicely in the middle of the rectangular part?

    Or is there an advantage to having the flat top part of the nozzle flush with the bottom of the rectangular piece?

    sorry for my bad choice of descriptions.

    thank you
     
    #1 supercazzola, Nov 28, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No. Install the heat break into the top of heat block until the top of the bottom threads are flush with the top of the heat block.
    Then insert the nozzle into the heat block until it butts up against the end of the heat break (inside the heat block).
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Nov 28, 2017
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Properly installed your nozzles will seldom be flush against the heater block and if they are .. it is luck/happenstance or they are installed incorrectly :) Which will cause leaks ...
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Nov 28, 2017
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    As long as the heat break and nozzle mate up inside the heater block you will not get a leak, but the heat break should be properly positioned or you run the risk it will not do its job correctly (either too little or too much).
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, Nov 28, 2017
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  5. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Excellent - thank you !

    seems the hardened one is a bit longer than the other, so I'll do the change after the next print and adjust the z-offset accordingly.
     
    #5 supercazzola, Nov 28, 2017
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good idea. On the R1/R1+ you didn't have to worry since the nozzle was the Z probe, but on the C2/R2 this is not the case.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Nov 28, 2017
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  7. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    I have taken the heat break out a bit so that the nozzle would be as close to the heater block as possible but of course without touching it so it still rests on the heatbreak, there's about half a mm. Figure heat is always better directed to the nozzle than above so makes more sense.

    Obviously I've gotten both my finer 0.25mm nozzle and a 0.4mm replacement from the same brand so that they're the same length and I don't use the stock nozzle at all anymore. Also allows to mostly avoid Z offset recal when swapping between the 2 sizes.
     
    #7 Kilrah, Nov 29, 2017
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  8. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Would you mind snapping a photo at the next opportunity?
    You are suggesting the nozzle has a 1/2 mm between its flat surface and the bottom of the heater block, right ? But that the heatbreak and the nozzle touch (inside the heater block) with no gap.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
    #8 supercazzola, Nov 29, 2017
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    no he is saying when he changed his nozzle he adjusted the heat break so that the nozzle was closer (.5mm clearance) to the heater block. Preference :D. properly installed (and assembled) the nozzle will not be flush (nor a specific number) from the heat block. E3D suggests spinning the nozzle all the way on then backing off half a turn, then when you install their heat break the top of the thread is flush with the top of the heater block and your gap for the nozzle is there. Granted thats E3D but pretty much the same for all hotends :D
     
    #9 Geof, Nov 29, 2017
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  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The way @Geof outlined is pretty much how I do it, twist the nozzle on the hot zone block, then back it off, I use one full turn. Then screw in the heatbreak until it bottoms out on the top of the nozzle, as tight as I can get it by hand. Heat up the hotend to about 200°C and then tighten the nozzle further. That has always resulting in a tight leak-proof seal between the nozzle and the heatbreak.
     
    #10 WheresWaldo, Nov 29, 2017
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  11. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Thank you


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
    #11 supercazzola, Nov 29, 2017
  12. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Well that's exactly the same thing :D If it's what they recommend I guess my feeling wasn't that bad :p
     
    #12 Kilrah, Nov 29, 2017
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