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Questions regarding the stock R2 nozzle

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by DavidR, Mar 19, 2018.

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  1. DavidR

    DavidR Member

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    Some filaments (like steel-infused PLA) recommend and/or require the use of a "hardened steel nozzle". Is this the type of nozzle that comes with the R2?

    Also, it seems some 3d printers allow the replacement of a nozzle w/o having to replace the entire hot end. Are we able to do this on the R2? If so, is there any reason I wouldn't be able to put a nozzle with a different diameter on there as long as I adjusted that setting in the slicer? I was thinking a .2 mm nozzle might be better for miniatures.
     
  2. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Nope. What you need is one from printed solid. The stock one is just brass.
    see my next post for the link.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  3. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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  4. DavidR

    DavidR Member

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    @supercazzola So that's an affirmative on my second question then? The nozzle on the R2 hotend can be unscrewed and replaced with other ones?
     
  5. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    yeah, sorry. my tapatalk is playing tricks on me tonight and my posts were being sent before I finished. Just got onto a browser so I could answer directly.

    it helps to watch a video on how best to change the nozzle out. Best done when it is HOT.
    You need a 7mm wrench to grab the nozzle, and maybe a adjustable wrench to hold the heater block.
    a harder to find 4.5mm wrench is used for the pipe that goes into the top of the heater block, but that is typically not used for just swapping out the nozzle.
    good luck
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, and any E3D compatible nozzle will work (not E3D volcano nozzles, regular ones).
     
  7. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    You know, I was about to ask the same thing, so thanks!

    Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to have a hardened nozzle mounted all the time?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No, personal choice :)
    Just make sure it is a hardened steel nozzle (which is a dark colored metal) rather than stainless steel (which is a shiny metal)
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    P.S. two of mine keep hardened nozzles installed all the time too
     
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  10. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    I also have a hardened nozzle on all the time. Bought a 0.25mm microswiss, and also got a 0.4 along with it. Just swap between both as needed, as they're from the same brand they are close enough not to need to readjust offset when swapping.

    Original nozzle is kept as spare somewhere just in case.
     
  11. DavidR

    DavidR Member

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    @drbanks While researching this I read that brass is used because it has better thermal conductivity which supposedly allows the nozzle to heatup faster. I don't personally know how much of a difference it makes in terms of print quality-- more likely just decreases the wait time when starting a print or doing filament changes. The Olssen ruby is advertised as being both more wear resistant than hardened steel but also with a predominantly brass body which allows both regular printing and abrasive printing with the same nozzle. They run at around $90 bucks though and there may be an issue using them with auto-leveling.
     
    #11 DavidR, Mar 21, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2018
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Trust me, the heat up time differences between a brass nozzle and a hardened steel is really ... moot (and if you use the 40w heater cores you probably never even notice it).
     
  13. DavidR

    DavidR Member

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    @mark tomlinson I believe you - I didn't imagine there would be much difference. I wound up ordering an assorted diameter brass nozzle set from matterhackers after you guys responded to this post. They arrived today. The nozzles are significantly smaller (not the nozzle opening diameter but the entire nozzle itself) than what comes stock on the R2. Does this make any difference in terms of jam-risk or print quality?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not as long as they fit the threading. The only possibility is that they may be too short to make the seal happen in the heater block, but that is not likely.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  16. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    That is odd because mine was longer than the stock. I bought the 0.4 one from matterhacker. It just meant readjusting the z-offset, but it works perfectly


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  18. bill Snyder

    bill Snyder Member

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    ordered the hardened steel nozzles. Since they are smaller will this effect the IR sensor leveling?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It should not.
     
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  20. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Sensor doesn't even see the nozzle, it will level without a nozzle on it at all.

     
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