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R2 bed leveling really a good thing?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Kilrah, Aug 2, 2017.

  1. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    I'm starting to believe the bed leveling on my R2 is actually detrimental rather than helpful. Whatever I do the back of the print bed is always lower than the front with stuff not sticking in the back even if Z offset is set so that the front is pretty much impossible to remove.
    I try to compensate with the screws, but it's always exactly the same afterwards so it seems the bed leveling is simply compensating for it and making it wrong again.

    Did anyone had the same experience?

    About to recheck level manually and try a print without G29.
     
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  2. Trevor C

    Trevor C Member

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    I find that I have to use the z offset wizzard before every print. Try that.
    Also the bed racks as it moves up and down. So at the bottom it rocks on the dome nuts but at the top (where i have leveled it) it is fine. That, however does not seem to affect performance so far. the biggest i have made so far is the spiral vase.
    TC
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    ... and that is why on the C2 I just ended up :
    1) Manually leveling the bed
    2) removed the autolevel command from the starttup GCode (the G29).

    Works fine. In all fairness though the C2 is a much smaller bed and far more trivial to level.
     
  4. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Which is highly stupid and telling that something needs fixing. Precisely thinking it's the bed leveling that's kind of unreliable.
    FWIW the print I just did after verifying manual leveling (it was still good, had done it properly last time) printed great on first try after having had 4 unsticks in a row with the G29.

    Guess that's sorted and I'll enjoy saving 2-3mins at each print start too.
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Bingo :)
     
  6. Trevor C

    Trevor C Member

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    Can you tell me how to dissable the auto level or point me to the right thread please
     
  7. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Remove or comment out the G29 instruction in your startup Gcode script, wherever you have one. By default it's in octoprint settings.
     
  8. Trevor C

    Trevor C Member

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    So can you expand a bit further Kilrah. I am guessing I need to input something in the start Gcode box (see pic).
    If that's right, What do I need to type in here to cancel the auto level?
     

    Attached Files:

  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You need to remove the G29 from the startup script in OctoPrint assuming you are printing with OctoPrint.
     
  10. Kevin Bruckert

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    I'm having this same issue, except mine is LEFT to RIGHT. The left side is so close to the head it almost clogs it, and the right side is too high to stick. When I adjust the screws for the bed, the auto-level re-adapts to the change and repeats the problem.

    Update: Ooh, that didn't go well. The auto-bed leveling was doing a beautiful job leveling front to back. Now that it's turned off, it didn't adjust.
     
    #10 Kevin Bruckert, Aug 7, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2017
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  11. Trevor C

    Trevor C Member

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    OK ...as a complete novice to this I think I am getting there. In the Robo version of Octoprint that I have downloaded as per Robo guide I have the attached startup scripts. So am I right in just thinking I delete the

    ; probe for bed autolevel plane
    G29

    text from the code?

    Sorry to be a twit.! Screen Shot 2017-08-08 at 08.39.20.jpg
     
  12. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    That's it.
     
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  13. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    You can just comment out the G29, which makes it easier if you later want to re-enable it.

    ; probe for bed autolevel plane
    ;G29


    Any line that starts with a ";" is treated as a comment and ignored, so you can just add one at the beginning of the G29 line, and remove it later if you want. I did this earlier when playing around with disabling auto-levelling too :)
     
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  14. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    I went to just printing on glass, I found the extra weight helped me level the bed.

    Personal disclaimer: if your rods are bent bed leveling is not fun. Below is before I replaced my rods as well.

    WP_20170612_14_48_12_Pro.jpg
     
  15. Michael_ROBO

    Michael_ROBO New Member

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    Have you updated your printer? The Z offset measures from the front left now. Since then I feel like the auto leveling started working much better.
     
  16. Jerome Helbert

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    I'm seeing the same issue as the Original Poster, I perfectly dial in the bed level and get the test print lines looking good, but then I kick off a 1 layer print and it shoves the back right corner into the bed. Adjust the bed on the fly to get the test print looking good. I run it again and it does it again. The auto-level seems to be detecting wrong in that region...

    Running the latest available software.
     
  17. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    Just for fun, clean your IR sensor and see what that does?
     
  18. Jerome Helbert

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    That was my plan tonight when I get back to it. I've only had the printer a week, and haven't done a ton of prints with it yet.
     
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  19. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    DId cleaning the sensor every fix it? My bed seems to rise on the outer edge (or lower in the middle). When I print the spiral, I get good adhesion except on the outer 1 or 2 rings.
    How does one manually level the bed? do you mean use a level and adjust the screws? I think I want to try a plate of glass like John does.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It never means "use a level" because that sort of "level" is moot. It does mean adjust the screws though until the gap between the tip of the extruder and the bed is as close to identical across the entire bed as you can get it. That is what we mean by "level"
     
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