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R2 - It arrived!

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Kilrah, Jun 28, 2017.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @OutsourcedGuru OctoPrint does not use GPIO for anything, it only reports the temperature reported by the host controller via USB.
     
  2. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    That's a shame. Was only able to see how in OctoPrint you can drive an external relay (could be useful)... and the filament sensor plugin... and the LEDStripControl... and things like external enclosures.

    I suppose you could edit the octoprint/config.yaml's events section (GCODE processing) to add a script to update a device-like file with the temperature... and then watch it remotely. http://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/events/#gcode-processing I just don't see M104 listed so I guess not, unless you can customize that.

    What's sad is that there are four cores on the Raspi3. A blocking call shouldn't prevent screen updates, for example.
     
  3. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    That's... not how it works.

    The temperature comes from analog sensor. A Pi can't read an analog sensor. The analog sensor is thus instead connected to the machine control board that effectively runs the printer using Marlin firmware, and to which the Pi talks to through a virtual USB serial port for user interface/display/management/network control.

    The reason the temperature is not updated at times is that the Marlin board does not respond to requests to read temperature while it's busy doing something else.
     
  4. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Kinda double posting but just so I have everything in the same place, my "+" pogo pin (only one since one was damaged beyond repair in shipping) melted and stopped making contact.

    I've decided to go with my gut feeling and attempt to do what I thought Robo would have done regarding the power contacts that obviously need to be quite beefy, i.e. use the large and solid bed holders to carry the power.

    20170630_152055.jpg 20170630_152042.jpg

    Everything going good so far.
    Currently on my longest print ever which will use the full working height (and first ABS one...), will see how it comes out.

    20170701_220402.jpg

    20170701_220426.jpg

    Clipboard01.jpg
     
    #24 Kilrah, Jul 1, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2017
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  5. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    Oh, goodness . . . anyone see what I see in the 4th image?

    Na, just a light trick . . . . it's gone now. :)
     
    #25 Todd Wessendorf, Jul 3, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2017
  6. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    If you're talking about the split, I'm pretty sure that's still support.
    Nicely done. Hope that support comes off there (I've been having problems with mine lately). I'd probably consider slicing at the back of the wings.
     
  7. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Yes no problem. It came out pretty nicely, apart from a few places where the supports became imprecise or broke before getting there on the small features on the underside. And the model that had issues I didn't notice like the main wheels not actually touching/being attached to anything. It was obviously not meant to be 3D printed, I already fixed a number of problems but missed a few.

    It did its job of showing the printer works great and consistently over the whole build height. Was also my first ABS print... and with a random $15 1kg spool from China.

    20170702_200417.jpg DSC09522_r.jpg DSC09511_r.jpg DSC09501_r.jpg DSC09514_r.jpg
     
  8. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Now that is a big part. :D
     
  9. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    I'll soon have to print a 25cm part that is supposed to be pretty dimensionally accurate over the whole height, so that kinda served as validation benchmark, pretty confident it will work fine now, especially since I'll print in PLA and it won't have any complex features.
    And I love the F-16 :D
     
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  10. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Was in the Air Force and was *this* close to being a fly-boy at the Academy. Got two Congressional nominations and everything (Al Gore, Jr). I think they were flying the F-16B there at the time. Ended up doing Teletypes instead... which is almost as cool.

    NOT
     
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  11. AlienBeans

    AlienBeans Active Member

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    I experienced the same thing, but not with the spool that was shipped with the printer. Mine occurred with 2 different spools that I had purchased from Robo that I had to use their spool holder to be able to use it since it won't mount on their built in spool holder. 1st time it happened to be, it literally pulled the entire spool off the holder and up against the beginning of the feed tube. Another time, the unit kept printing but it wasn't extruding any filament but it thought it was. Print failed of course. Now, after I load the spool (any spool), I loosen up a bunch of it so its not tight on the spool. On overnight/all day prints, I loosen a bunch again before I go to bed or go to work. This is something that robo should probably look into and see how to prevent this from happening.
     
    #31 AlienBeans, Jul 3, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2017
  12. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    My stock spool is unbelievably terrible, even when loosening things it would tangle again within 30-60mins, had to always be next to it and jump at it when I started hearing clicks. Failed more prints and it drove me crazy so this morning I took 20mins, emptied the whole damn thing and respooled it. Been printing for 11h since with no issue or even any noise at all. I don't know how they can mess this up that bad, even the lowest quality stuff I ever bought was better in this regard.
    The filament is good, but...
     
  13. Seamus

    Seamus Member

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    Mine was somewhat disappointing, as well. It ended up crossing badly during a long test print I'd scheduled for an overnight run so I didn't tie up the printer with a huge job during a day off from work.
    At least it only had the one really bad snag in the whole spool. It ran out somewhat unexpectedly during a short test print, so I got to see the R2's filament-out sensing in action, and do my first mid-print filament change.
    It still wasn't as bad as the sample spools that I got with my first printer. between the horrible filament, poor winding, and the tiny hub diameter, I may never get rid of what's left of those things.
     
  14. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Lost a test part last night for the same reason. (Shaxon filament)

    I'm still guessing that it's the lack of smoothness on the stock filament holder versus any roughness on the inner hole of these filament spools. I'm considering adding a cylindrical bearing-shim inside there. This is getting ridiculous.

    The location of the stock holder is part of the problem. For a portion of the reel, the harsh angle of attack between the line of filament versus that intake hole on the filament detector is too great. Lowering the spool would soften that angle's worst case scenario, methinks.
     
  15. Seamus

    Seamus Member

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    In my case, it was definitely cross-winding of the filament on the sample spool that came with my R2.
    I can't say with certainty that I didn't cause the snarl myself, but this isn't my first printer, and I'm pretty careful with my winding and storage, using flat filament clips, etc.

    I mostly use Hatchbox filament from Amazon, and have been quite happy with its consistency and quality. The only issue I've had with Hatchbox on the R2 is the fact that a lot of my filament stock is on older spools with a hub hole that's just slightly too small to hang on the reel hooks on the back of the R2. As an expedient, I have been using my old printer (and the ball-bearing reel holder that I made to clip onto the top of it) as a reel holder for the R2. This arrangement has been working fine, even considering that there's a somewhat sharp bend leading into the R2's filament sensor block.

    So far, that one cross-winding incident has really been the only filament-related issue that I've had with the printer.
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I've heard nothing but complains with Shaxon filament. Might want to try another brand.

    The sample stuff with our R1 series was some serious garbage lol. As a side not our own @Printed Solid sells and stock hatchbox now :D https://printedsolid.com/collections/filament

    I've been buying through him because of how up and down amazon stock and prices are.
     
  17. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    I get this will all brands, to be honest. I mentioned in another thread the clicking sound from the back of the printer (once per spool revolution).

    This time, I could see a tautly-wound diagonal strand of filament being pulled from underneath another tightly-trapping strand of filament that was over it. The diagonal was about 45 degrees in this case.

    Normally, say in a sewing machine, the distance from (1) to (2) is much longer than the Robo's design. As a result, the maximum top-of-the-machine's-plane-to-thread angle is no greater than 15 degrees, perhaps.

    SewingMachine.jpg

    In the Robo design, a full (1kg) spool's distant-most filament layers are having to diagonally cross all the other layers of filament to make it to that pickup hole which is reasonably at the same level as the spool. Keep in mind that the photo below is a half kg roll and is therefore half the depth (and still a problem, to be honest).

    RoboC2.png

    I'm thinking that I like Mark's (second filament) fix and to build a floor-based filament holder (which now won't fall off like it tries to do). I can then fix the sliding problem and move the spool down, adjusting that problematic angle problem. And finally, if I change the orientation so that the axle is aligned left/right when facing the front, then it just spools off within an inch or so at most from the back surface of the printer (at least until it's nearly empty).
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    print or make a spool holder and set it on the desk behind the robo. Or do like I do with most machines and feed from a wall mount/overhead solution :D dont overthink it you'll drive yourself crazy on a simple issue. ;)
     
  19. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    I'm kind of... high-functioning Aspberger's so everything gets overthunk, if you know what I mean. :laugh:

    It sits atop one of these http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50217653/ so I guess I might bolt something under the top shelf and run it upside-down.
     
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  20. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Same, one of these every few turns...

    20170703_114343.jpg

    Not really an issue if the spool is wound correctly and the filament always exits on top. If it comes from a few layers below then yes that's an issue, but it also is even if you pull straight anyway.

    On the R2 you can use the bottom holder as primary if you wish and have less of that angle. But again even on the top one no issue at all apart from that borked spool before I rewound it, the other 4 I used were all fine.
     
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