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Partially Solved Removing hot end

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Floyd Owens, May 8, 2016.

  1. Floyd Owens

    Floyd Owens New Member

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    I am attempting to remove the hot end as I believe I have a jam/clog in it.

    When I attempt to remove the screw that's just behind the "Do not touch" sticker it just spins as if it's stripped and I barely turn it. Does anyone know if in fact I did strip it and if so, how can I get this out so I can get to printing again?

    I haven't seen a post with this specific issue as of this post. But, if there is one, please let me know.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Ocsff

    Ocsff Active Member

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    Sounds like you are trying to remove the wrong screws. The screws are two located on the left side of the extruder. If they are the screws you are trying to remove. use needle nose vise grips and pull on them while unscrewing and they will come out. They go right into the notch on the hot end and should not be able to strip. If after removal install slightly rotated to secure
     
  3. Ocsff

    Ocsff Active Member

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    if you have the robo r1 plus you are attempting to remove the correct screw. you have to use needle nose pliers to hold the nut on top if it is stripped. after that I would remove the entire extrudder by removing the screw on the back located same position at the front screw. The nuts are held in place by the plastic. you can address the striped plastic at this point
     
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  4. Agrijag

    Agrijag New Member

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    I too have a clog, the screw you're describing will remove the hot end only? It looks like it takes the entire extruder off. I don't want to take apart parts of my printer that I don't have to, but I want to get my printer working again, so need to clear this clog. If this screw does in fact let me take off the hot end, after removing it, what other steps are needed to remove it? Everything I've seen has mentioned 2 screws on the side, but on my R1 plus there are no screws in those holes. I'm confused!
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Raise the carriage up. You'll see two screws. One in front of the nozzle one at the back. Loosen the front screw(the one towards the robo lettering) then on the side of your carriage (right side) you'll see a little finger tab, pull that towards the right away from the motor and then the hotend comes out the bottom. Be careful of the wires they are delicate
     
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  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  7. Agrijag

    Agrijag New Member

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    Geof:

    Thankyou VERY much! that did the trick! I was able to get the hot end out in just a few seconds, and I found out that I didn't have a clog, but rather just a jam of some red PLA I had been using before I tried to switch over to white. I do have one last question. On the back of the hot end I noticed some red stuff which at first I thought was melted PLA around the back, but then I noticed the color is slightly off from the red of the PLA (from Robo3D), so I just wanted to check and see if that's supposed to be there, or if it is in fact melted red PLA that I should clean off before I replace the hot end back into the printer? Also, can it hurt the hot end to heat it up while it's not mounted on the printer? I had to heat it up to 150C to pull the PLA that was in it, but I did that quickly, but I was thinking of seasoning the hot end with oiled PLA (using the instructions from another post here), and thought that if I could do it while it's not mounted in the printer carriage it might be easier, as long as that wouldn't damage the hot end. The way I heated it up, and the way I would do it, is with a vice-grip clamped lightly on it as a handle.

    -MikeS
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I always drop the hotend tl.work on ot. It wont hurt it but mind the wires. I dont think i understand what you mean about the red stuff, if you can share a picture that would help.

    As far as seasoning goes i dip filament in canola oil and feed it through after i clear the jam while its out to make sure all is well. Then id suggest printing an oiler and using it all the time. I have one on mine and i drop 3 drops of canola oil on the sponge whenever i remember :) defianently read through that sticky thread in troubleshooting.
     
  9. Agrijag

    Agrijag New Member

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    Geof:

    After it cooled down I answered my own question. The red stuff is some kind of silicone. I'm not sure why it's there, but I'm sure there's a good reason. I went ahead an reassembled my printer, wiped some canola oil on about the first 6" of the PLA spool I was loading, and I printed a small piece to see how it was printing. I was working fine! Of course, just my luck, fix one problem, just in time to have another one crop up! I have my R1 plus connected to a BananaPi-Pro running OctoPi, or more correctly it's running bananaian running OctoPrint, rather than running an actual OctoPi SD card image, and after having printed the initial test piece directly from the SD card without any computer intervention I decided to finally test out the OctoPrint installation (I installed it after I jammed the Robo3D R1+), so using OctoPrint's web interface I uploaded a gcode file to OctoPrint, and it started printing it right away. At least it thought it was printing it! The page was showing that it was printing, progress meters were showing the print advancing, but the printer was sitting there doing nothing. Even the add-on LCD display (the XXXL non-graphic one) on the printer was showing progress on the file. After that I tried resetting the printer, and printing a file directly from the SD Card again, but it still won't print anything, so I hope I didn't break anything that's going to be expensive to fix!

    Other than the different mounting methods, is the stock hotend on the R1 Plus any different than the stock hotends that came with any of the earlier Robo3D printers, either the kickstarter one, or the R1, etc.? I keep on reading about how the E3Dv6 is SO much better, and 'THE' thing to do, and was wondering if that applies to the later R1 Plus models as well as the earlier ones. Sorry for being so full of questions!

    -MikeS
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi mike,
    Im sprry i cant help with octopi or the like as i dont use it.

    The red stuff at the top is silicon. I always figured a seal :).

    The e3d is a good hotend that is servicable. You can change the nozzle on the hex but thats about it. The e3d sells all the pieces so if something breaks you can buy just that piece of the hotend. It also has a tube that supports the filament and a bigger bore so handles some out of spec filament. I find it to be more reliable and less lrone to jams as well but thats my opinion.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The KS Robo came with a J-head (upper temperature limited).
    The R1 started using a Hexagon (R1+ still does). Downside is that it is a cheaper construction and no serviceable parts (other than the removable nozzle).

    None of them are the same as the E3D. Higher quality construction and completely serviceable. Doesn't mean you need to rush out and buy one, but if your hotend needs service then look at the E3D.
     
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  12. Goofynoodle

    Goofynoodle Member

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    this may help..... just don't push up too hard while turning the screw.... it's a captive nut in there and pushing up will push nut out of it's slot that keeps it from spinning.
     
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  13. MagicSteve

    MagicSteve New Member

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    Thank You....You solved my problem
     

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