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Solved [REPRAPGURU] 2004 LCD Smart Display Controller - With RoBo R1

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by darcangeloel, Apr 13, 2016.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, Banggood is probably an option at that price, but good luck if you have an issue with it :) (13 bucks through them).
    (not saying you will have issues, but there you have it)

    http://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O

    That looks like the same one in that kit as well as all the other spare parts you will want.

    I bought mine from PrintedSolid.com -- but I do have one of those spare parts kits because darn that is cheap.
     
  2. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I brought one.... Hope it works :) .... I'll try to remember to report back once it gets here (Monday). I'm going to try to use this case if I can. Man, I hope it works :)... Is there any easy way I can extend these cables?

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:393856
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They are not special (in other words, they are straight through cables) so you can get some ribbon cable and connectors and make your own. If you are good/lucky you might can even remove and recycle the connectors on there (but I would not suggest it).
     
  4. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Would something like this work to combine some ide ribbion cables I have in my unprocessed scrap bucket. Can you suggestion longer cables I could use?

    http://www.amazon.com/kenable-PATA-...JCYeVGL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I don't know of any prebuilt ones. You could use something like link that to extend them if you had some others to jumper on, but really if it is that big of a deal then you should get the appropriately sized connectors and just build your own.
     
  6. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Never! Must not Solder :) well I assume you would need to. It looks like two 10 pin connectors. I'll search on Amazon/ ebay and see if I can find something prebuilt or DIY if I have to.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is no soldering involved in making a ribbon cable...
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The video is not specific to printer data cables, in fact, it appears that they are making hard/floppy disk style cables, but the mechanics of how you assembled ribbon cables are the same :)
     
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  10. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Hmm, you are correct. In theory could I use the female ends this comes with and then open them cut the other cable I have on hand to the correct lengths and then put the cable back together. This link was somewhat helpful for other people looking into this.

    http://www.egr.msu.edu/classes/ece4...n Team 3_files/CustomRibbonCircuitDesign1.pdf
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes. I have 'recycled' them before that way, but ... if you want to be sure get new connectors :)
    Good luck.
     
  12. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I installed this screen this weekend and the install worked without issue. I even remixed some of the existing thingiverse models to make a decent attachment for this. (I ran the cables through a small opening in the bottom of the Robo case I made with a Drimel Tool.) The screen appears to be a clone of the discount reprap lcd controller. I did have to adjust the brightness when I installed it by turning a small screw on the back. The cables they supplied with it were around 12 inches long so I didn't have to do any of the things I mentioned above. Install was super easy. Unplug, take the bottom off (5 screws) take off the connector which is attached to the sd card slot. Then use the included adapter and plug in the two ribbon cables to the corresponding (They are well marked) connections on the LCD. Make the small hole to route the cables. Put the cover back on. Turn it on and then adjust the brightness screw left or right until you see things display on the screen. That's it! Mount it to a case you like and glue it to the robo :) Done. $15 for a controller was a super easy and fun mod to the printer which I think adds a ton of functionality (It pisses me off a ton when a print fails because something went wrong on my laptop.
     
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  13. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Also, I am facing an odd issue when auto homing (I really don't think its the LCD doing this). When I Auto Home, the X axis grinds for a few turns. I can still print and prints are coming out fine but the LCD always reads "end stops hit: Z" after the grinding occurs. In the interest of full disclosure be very careful if you do this and decide to take the top off like I did (I should have been more careful and I really didn't need to for this upgrade). Then I turn it on its side the carriage slammed into my printer cart. I then put something soft under it and continued to work as nothing obvious had broken. I was also so excited when I got the controller to turn on, I kept fooling with the movement options to make the X Y and Z planes change. I went too high on the Z axis (Keep in mind the case is still off) and it sort of slipped off kind of and fell down the Z access and caught itself (Again this is my fault for being a spaz and not waiting until I put everything back together before playing. I got it back on (As best I could tell) then did a print and it worked. I did notice the grinding issue on auto home when the x axis went way to far to the left and did some nasty grinding noise. Again, it prints fine (I just assume this can be good). Any ideas on what I should check to get that issue fixed? Hope I didn't break anything expensive :(. Again I doubt any of this is the LCD controllers fault so I don't want anyone to be off put by this, just want people to be careful with all the moving parts. Any thoughts?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sounds like something is obstructing the X axis home switch. (wires maybe?)

    Remember that (other than Z which has two) there is only one home switch for each axis (and no MAX travel switches).

    If something is blocking it (the home switch) from getting triggered then the printer will do exactly what you describe since the logic is: "drive it towards home until the switch triggers".

    Not real complicated :)
     
  15. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Where can I find these switches? If you had a picture of each of them it would be super helpful (I still can't believe I screwed up such a simple mod)
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Red colored outline around X switch

    X switch.jpg
     
  17. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Hmm, I wonder if I screw up something with that switch. The screw on the carriage hits it and fully depresses the switch and it just keeps going for a bit and then homes the y axis. (Both Y and Z seem uneffect by this). Do you think I broke something or bent something? Man I hope it's something simple. Is there an easy way I can tell if the switch is working at all? Something I can send through the G code terminal.

    Thanks,
     
  18. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I guess I have to trace the wires all the way back to the board. (Sucks)
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you have a meter you can (with the power off) check the resistance across where the wires connect to the switch and see that it is opening and closing when you press the button.

    Assuming that is working and the wires are connected then, yes -- sadly, you will need to trace it back to the RAMPS to make sure it is still connected.

    It got disconnected somewhere or the switch is broken :)
     
  20. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Do you have a picture of where I can find the Z home switches as well? This is working but I think it would be good to know :)
     

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