Reviviendo una Robo3D R1+ / Reviving a Robo3D R1+

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Hola gente!! Mi nombre es Rodrigo Gelso, soy de Argentina, hace unos meses soy usuario de la marca, me vendieron una Robo3D R1+ lamentablemente en un estado deplorable y sin funcionar, con muchas fallas y faltantes, pero no me di por vencido, asi que puse manos a la obra y la puse a funcionar... Con muchos traspies, pero se logro el objetivo, hoy es el caballito de batalla nº 1, junto a una Ender 3 V2 que tambien tuvo un paradero similar, que hoy en dia ambas se defienden juntas!!
Paso a detallar toda la odisea:

Problemas de la Robo R1 Plus:

- RAMPS con 2 drivers quemados
- SKR con puertos de termistor quemados directo al chip
- Tornillos faltantes
- Termistor de hotend suelto
- Cables mas pasados
- Cama de vidrio rota
- Sistema operativo corrupto
- Disipador faltante de driver A4988
- Cooler de capa faltante
- Imanes de cama torcidos
- No funciona el eje Z independiente
- No funciona puerto E0M

Reparaciones hechas:

- SKR reparada con anulacion de puertos de Termistor y bypass a puerto SPI
- RAMPS puertos de alimentacion cambiados para mayor dinamismo
- Tornillos repuestos
- Termistor asegurado
- Manejo de cables realizado
- Vidrio nuevo de 4mm repuesto
- Sistema operativo funcional instalado
- Cooler de capa repuesto
- Imanes de cama nivelados
- No se puede habilitar Z independientes
- Se utilizó puerto E1 para el extrusor ya que no funcionaba el puerto E0
- Se reparo puerto E0M, se colocaron drivers nuevos para eje Z y se habilitó el eje z independiente
- Driver TMC2208 nuevos para ambos ejes Z y TMC2225 para Ejes X, Y y E0
- Hotend E3D V6 nuevo para reemplazar Argento V6
- Quick Release más ancho para E3D V6
- Soporte nuevo para cooler de capa de 50mm y tobera
- Lubricación y mantenimiento completo de mecánica
- Colocación de cooler para refrigeración de mother
- Colocacion de luces internas sustituyendo las originales quemadas
- Soporte para filamento fabricado
- Soporte de pantalla TFT35
- Nuevos soportes de cama impresos en PETG para reemplazar los originales porque estaban torcidos y las cavidades de los imanes estaba deformada

Últimas modificaciones:

- Se volvió al sistema original de fábrica de switches endstops del eje Z en paralelo para mantener en funcionamiento la función G29 y así calibrar la cama de manera correcta (Esto se decidió en base a la descalibracion constante del eje Z)
- Se reemplazaron los endstops por nuevos
- Se reemplazo el driver TMC2225 del extrusor por uno TMC2208
- Se colocaron estabilizadores en el eje Z
- Shroud para Stepper del extrusor
- Nueva tobera trasera, con flujo mas enfocado
- Adaptador de 40 a 50mm corregido
- Activacion de Input Shaping
- Cooler de 25mm con adaptador a 40mm para carcasa inferior

La impresora llego desarmada, con el vidrio roto, muchisimos faltantes de tornilleria, conectores, cables cortados, armados asi nomas.
Si bien nunca habia tenido experiencia en impresion 3d, decidi aceptar el desafio y lograr dejarla funcionando, fueron meses literalmente de investigacion exhaustiva desde como funciona y se construye una impresora 3d hasta como imprimir, repito, sin conocimiento previo de absolutamente nada de impresoras.
Mucho material investigado, charla con gente en el ambiente (Que aca en Argentina todos te toman como competencia y se hace muy dificil aprender o avanzar), meter mano y aprender "rompiendo" como quien diria.
Pero llego a su etapa, dentro de todo, final. Asi que queria presentarselas, a la Robo3D R1+ "Mamalona" como lo apodo Google Gemini
Una impresora con Marlin 2.1.2.7, OctoPrint, camara para control de impresiones, mecanica rejuvenecida, electronica actualizada, esteticamente incorrecta, pero destacando sobre todo, por su robustez, mecanica simple pero confiable, dando batalla contra toda impresion que se le proponga!!

Fue un largo camino pero queria compartirlo con ustedes y dejarles tambien todo lo que le hice para que ustedes lo prueben y tambien para que puedan darle una nueva vida a su gran Robo3D R1+.
Lo proximo es ver si puedo conseguir 2 steppers Z ya que los que tienen la varilla roscada, el izquierdo sufrio golpes y se doblo bastante, donde estuvo guardada, estuvo sin la carcasa y sufrio todo tipo de maltrato, asi que me queda ese pendiente para mejorar finalmente la calidad de impresion a un 100%.
Espero que les guste y me gustaria conocer sus opiniones al respecto y les mando un saludo muy grande desde Argentina!!

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Hey everyone! My name is Rodrigo Gelso, I'm from Argentina, and I've been a Robo3D user for a few months now. I bought a Robo3D R1+, unfortunately in terrible condition and completely broken, with many faults and missing parts. But I didn't give up, so I got to work and got it running... It was a bit of a struggle, but I finally achieved my goal. Today it's my number one workhorse, along with an Ender 3 V2 that had a similar fate, and now they both work together!

Here's a detailed account of the whole ordeal:

Problems with the Robo R1 Plus:

- RAMPS board with 2 burnt-out drivers
- SKR board with thermistor ports burned directly to the chip
- Missing screws
- Loose hotend thermistor
- Overstretched cables
- Broken glass bed
- Corrupted operating system
- Missing heatsink for A4988 driver
- Missing layer cooler
- Bent bed magnets
- Independent Z-axis not working
- E0M port not working

Repairs made:

- SKR board repaired with thermistor ports disabled and SPI port bypassed
- RAMPS power ports changed for greater dynamism
- Screws replaced
- Thermistor secured
- Cable management completed
- New 4mm glass board replaced
- Functional operating system installed
- Replacement layer cooler
- Bed magnets leveled
- Independent Z-axis cannot be enabled
- Port used E1 for the extruder since port E0 was not working
- Port E0M was repaired, new drivers were installed for the Z axis, and the independent Z axis was enabled
- New TMC2208 drivers for both Z axes and TMC2225 drivers for the X, Y, and E0 axes
- New E3D V6 hotend to replace Argento V6
- Wider quick release for E3D V6
- New support for 50mm layer cooler and nozzle
- Lubrication and complete mechanical maintenance
- Installation of a motherboard cooler
- Installation of internal lights, replacing the original burned-out ones
- Custom filament holder
- 35" TFT screen support
- New bed supports printed in PETG to replace the originals because they were warped and the magnet cavities were deformed

Latest modifications:

- Reverted to the original factory system of parallel Z-axis endstop switches to maintain the G29 function This allowed for proper bed calibration (this decision was made due to the constant Z-axis miscalibration).
- Endstops were replaced with new ones.
- The extruder's TMC2225 driver was replaced with a TMC2208.
- Stabilizers were installed on the Z-axis.
- A shroud was added for the extruder's stepper motor.
- A new rear nozzle with more focused airflow was installed.
- The 40mm to 50mm adapter was corrected.
- Input shaping was activated.

A 25mm fan with a 40mm adapter was installed for the lower housing.

The printer arrived disassembled, with a broken glass panel, many missing screws, connectors, and cut cables. It had been hastily assembled.

Although I had never had any experience with 3D printing, I decided to accept the challenge and get it working. It took months of exhaustive research, from how a 3D printer works and is built to how to print—again, with absolutely no prior knowledge of printers. A lot of research, conversations with people in the industry (because here in Argentina everyone sees you as competition, making it very difficult to learn or advance), getting hands-on and learning by "breaking" things, as they say.

But it reached its final stage, all things considered. So I wanted to introduce you to the Robo3D R1+ "Mamalona," as Google Gemini nicknamed it. A printer with Marlin 2.1.2.7, OctoPrint, a camera for print monitoring, rejuvenated mechanics, updated electronics, aesthetically imperfect, but standing out above all for its robustness, simple yet reliable mechanics, and ability to handle any print job you throw at it!

It was a long road, but I wanted to share it with you and also show you everything I did to it so you can try it out and give your Robo3D R1+ a new lease on life.

It was a long road, but I wanted to share it with you and also show you everything I did to it so you can try it out and give your great Robo3D R1+ a new lease on life.

Next, I need to see if I can get two Z-axis stepper motors, since the ones with the threaded rod—the left one—were damaged and bent quite badly. Where it was stored, it was without its casing and suffered all kinds of rough handling, so that's still pending for me to finally improve the print quality to 100%.

I hope you like it, and I'd love to hear your opinions. Sending you all a big hello from Argentina!

(Translated with Google Translator)

ANTES / BEFORE:

















DESPUES / AFTER:

 

Lamentablemente no puedo subir links hasta no tener 3 posts, tampoco me deja subir archivos el mismo foro porque me dice que pesan demasiado (Archivos de 50mb como maximo, cuando la web acusa maximo 512mb jajaja)

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Unfortunately, I can't upload links until I have 3 posts, and the forum won't let me upload files either because it says they're too big (Files of 50mb maximum, when the website says 512mb maximum lol)

 

Dejo los primeros archivos, son el Quick Release para la replica de E3D V6 que se consigue en Argentina, tiene 6mm de agarre, por lo que los Quick release que hay son muy angostos.
Hay 2 ductos, uno mas corto y uno mas largo, ambos testeados, son para la parte trasera, cuando pueda subire los que son para la parte delantera y el adaptador de fan de 40mm a 50mm que utilice a medida para que no roce la parte trasera de la carcasa

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Here are the first files: the Quick Release for the E3D V6 replica available in Argentina. It has a 6mm grip, so the Quick Releases that are available are very narrow. There are two ducts, one shorter and one longer, both tested. They are for the rear. When I can, I'll upload the ones for the front and the 40mm to 50mm fan adapter that I custom-made so it doesn't rub against the back of the case.

 

Aca pueden encontrar mi version de Marlin 2.1.2.7 modificada y los STLs restantes, ante cualquier duda, no duden en comentar o contactarme
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Here you can find my modified version of Marlin 2.1.2.7 and the remaining STLs. If you have any questions, feel free to comment or contact me.

drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DhkSvkwsrVaMRX5z7r2RgvSe_U7FgNDR?usp=sharing

Bajo ningun aspecto recomiendo usar mi version de Marlin aca sin antes revisar lo necesario, yo hice cambios en el archivo "Pins" de la SKR 1.4, ya que mi SKR tenia los defectos comentados mas arriba, entonces podrian generar fallos y conflictos, recomiendo solamente usar una base limpia de Marlin 2.1.2.7 y copiar solamente configuration.h y configuration_adv.h para evitar todo conflicto posible a nivel hardware.
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Under no circumstances do I recommend using my version of Marlin here without first checking what's necessary. I made changes to the "Pins" file of SKR 1.4, since my SKR had the defects mentioned above, so they could generate errors and conflicts. I recommend only using a clean Marlin 2.1.2.7 base and copying only configuration.h and configuration_adv.h to avoid any possible hardware conflicts.

 

Congratulations on your amazing success story. It's very impressive that you have the determination to see this project as far as you have.

 

Thank you so much!! ♥♥

 

Otra cosa mas, aquellos que tengan Orca Slicer en las ultimas versiones con Orca Cloud, pueden acceder al perfil de mi impresora, con 8 perfiles de proceso y el de impresora que mejores resultados me dieron completamente gratis!!
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One more thing, those who have the latest versions of Orca Slicer with Orca Cloud can access my printer profile, with 8 processing profiles and the printer profile that gave me the best results, completely free!

cloud.orcaslicer.com/app/bundles/shared-bundles/5b416106-49ce-43ae-8953-292f643865ab