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Robo 3D R1 Smart LCD Controller XXL

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Shawn Wandler, Jun 14, 2017.

  1. Shawn Wandler

    Shawn Wandler Member

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    Would anyone know where in Canada I can buy a Smart LCD Controller XXL for the Robo 3D R1?
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  3. Shawn Wandler

    Shawn Wandler Member

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    This is what i get when i search for it on amazon.ca
    "We found 0 results for "Smart LCD Controller XXL"
    Could i not be searching for it under the right
    description. i searched for Smart LCD Controller XXL
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The XXL is nothing special, just branding by reprapdiscount. Almost all the 20x4 LCD Smart Controllers are the same size.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. Shawn Wandler

    Shawn Wandler Member

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    Thanks that's a lot cheaper than every other one that i have seen so far.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Personally I am not a fan of the 20 x 4 controllers, just because I think it is easier to see what is going on with the Full Graphics Controller.
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I have one with the xxl and one with the full graphics. I'm not sure I really mind either way. I say go xxl if you do not want firmware change from stock firmware. If your ok with firmware change OR are using Mesh firmware provided by @WheresWaldo get the full graphics.

    edit: This is my opinion...I'm not telling you what to do :D
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Geof likes this.
  10. Shawn Wandler

    Shawn Wandler Member

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    I just picked up my Robo 3D R1 off Kijiji 2 weeks ago and I don't think the firmware has been changed. what are the benefits in changing the firmware. I have another printer its a Anet A8 and I have upgraded it's firmware to Skynet and it's a great improvement. now I am trying to get the Robo to where it is printing with the same quality as the Anet A8 would you recommend changing firmware?
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Upgrading stock firmware to newer stock firmware?
    No advantage unless you have a specific issue the new version touches.
     
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  12. Shawn Wandler

    Shawn Wandler Member

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    Well I went with the one with the full graphics now can anyone direct me to where i can find the new firmware that will work with it?
     
  13. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Well first off, you need to determine with Robo Printer you have. Beta, R1, R1+

    Then go here and download the appropriate firmware which matches your printer: http://guide.robo3d.com/Wiki/ROBO_3D_Firmware_Release_Notes

    In the firmware (configuration.h), you need to comment (around line 518):
    by adding "//" at the start of that line of code (no quotes, just //)

    Finally, you need to uncomment (remove the //) in front of:
    Right before that line, you will see:
    Don't forget to do that otherwise it will not compile. You should be able to download with the Library Manager (Sketch>Include Library>Manage Libraries

    Also on the Robo firmware page, note the compiling issues with latest Arduino. Otherwise search fpos_t within these forums for help.
     
  14. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Oh yeah.....then you will want to flash the firmware to the printer once it compiles! You can also only have Arduino open, if you have a slicer open it can't talk to the printer through the comm port since it's already being used. Lastly, open your slicer G-Code Terminal and enter M502 (reset current settings, as set in Configuration.h) and M500 (store current settings). You can also do this in Arduino, using Tools>Serial Monitor.
     
  15. Shawn Wandler

    Shawn Wandler Member

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    Would you know how to determine the difference between the Beta ,R1, and R1+
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Beta - bought it during kickstarter or immediately after
    R1 - After kickstarter and before the R1+
    R1+ before the R2 :)

    If it has couplers and threaded rods it is an R1 and if it has leadscrews it is an R1+
    Look where the Z rods go into the bed and if there are couplers then it is an R1, if not it is an R1+

    What does a threaded rod coupler look like you ask?

    This I say:

    https://smile.amazon.com/Signstek-Aluminum-Flexible-Coupler-Printer/dp/B00H1LNX5A
     
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  17. Shawn Wandler

    Shawn Wandler Member

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    Thanks the confirms my suspicions I do have an R1
     
  18. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    I see you already found my Risers and Case for the Full Graphics LCD on thingiverse!
     
  19. Shawn Wandler

    Shawn Wandler Member

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    Sure did .
    Do you know if there is a big difference between having leads screws and a threaded rod?
    Is there a forum that has pics of peoples prints? I want to compare the quality I am getting with what others are getting.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are a series of threads on this:
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/waviness-or-not-that-is-the-question.2490/
    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/z-axis-artifacts-known-issues-and-fixes.2576/

    There are more, but those were the main ones. @Ziggy chased this down a few years back.

    Essentially with the couplers there was an artifact on the Z axis (ripples or waves) that varied in intensity
     

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