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Unresolved Robo R1 Cannot Get Past 3rd Layer. Hot End Shuts Off

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Bryan Z Burnside, Nov 24, 2020.

  1. Bryan Z Burnside

    Bryan Z Burnside New Member

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    Hello Guys,

    Looking for some help. I've been searching for an answer for a week with no help.

    Robo R1 OG version with 5/16 threaded rods and self leveling heated bed.

    It was a hand me down from a friend, and after I got it, I was able to make about a dozen good enough prints. I thought I would add some upgrade, so I installed a brand new E3D V6 hot end.
    Hello Guys,

    Looking for some help. I've been searching for an answer for a week with no help.

    Robo R1 OG version with 5/16 threaded rods and self leveling heated bed.

    It was a hand me down from a friend, and after I got it, I was able to make about a dozen good enough prints. I thought I would add some upgrade, so I installed a brand new E3D V6 hot end.

    Everything, including all of the firmware changes were made.

    Since installing it, I am unable to get past the 3rd or 4th payer without the hot end shutting off. Using CURA, the printer still goes through the printing paces, but nothing is coming out and I temped the hot end and it is slowly cooling down. This causes the extruder to keep turning until it strips out into the filament. The monitor still displays a temperature that is what I set it at, but it's just not correct. I am running the printer with USB cable straight from my computer.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The original beta did not have the auto-leveling. Just FYI (It could be added but was not there stock). The next version (post-kickstarter) the R1 (not the R1+) DID have autoleveling but 8mm threaded rods. Now you may have been extremely lucky and gotten an odd-ball :) Robo was not always consistent with the product. Or you could have done like I did on one of the beta machines and upgraded it to the new bed -- that gave me the equivalent of an R1 with 5/16 rods :)



    You need to read through the GCode terminal in your slicer/host program and look for the word "error" make sure to scroll all the way back and look. It sounds like you have an error and Marlin (the firmware) is automatically shutting you down (it would help to know which version of Marlin you are running, but finding the error is most important). Post the error here and we can get you going.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Nov 25, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2020
  3. Bryan Z Burnside

    Bryan Z Burnside New Member

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    Thank you for your reply!

    I have been running Cura 4.8 through USB to my desktop, so I do not believe there is a GCode terminal I can get those reports on error codes. I tried running the prints on MatterControl, but cannot get it started there. The interface just doesn't place nice for me, so I cannot find a way yet to get the GCode.

    UPDATE: I have changed from PLA to ABS, to see if I could get a print to work, and the print worked super good. No fails. I am obviously using different settings for the ABS, but not totally clear why PLA keeps failing. I tried a few other files with the PLA, and it appears to be when the printer starts printing infill. Infill sections are what seems to be causing the hot end to either cool down or clog. I am leaning towards the latter. After some research, I believe it may be 'heat creep'. I am going to try to speed up the filament and lower the hot end temp a bit. I had tried 190 in the past, with no different results, so I'm going to try 180-185 next. If it's heat creep, then I should be able to solve this. Obviously with every ABS print working perfect, I think my settings, and firmware adjustments that were suggested in the setup guide were correctly done. Firmware file used: Auto_Level_7_17_516inch

    I would however love to get clarification to which version of ROBO I have here. Attached are a few pictures to help.

    Thanks again.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    My guess would be an Early R1 (assuming the threaded rods are 5/16 and not 8mm).
    If that is how it came from Robo it isn't a beta since they had beds constructed of delrin and wood (yes, really!) and used drawer slide-rails for the bed. The glass bed with 8mm linear rails started with the R1.

    Check that the fan mounted to the hotend finned section is running full-tilt all the time otherwise -- heat creep will sink you.
     
  5. Bryan Z Burnside

    Bryan Z Burnside New Member

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    What is the best way to measure the rods to check? I looked at 8mm leadscrew images online and they have a totally different appearance, right? Like an acme thread. These seem more like a traditional threaded rod that a nut rides on.

    The fan seems to be on full blast, and it's the one that came from E3D, so I think it's good. I will see about more cooling in that finned section as an approach at resolving the heat creep.

    Thanks!
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The easiest way to sort the threads is to get either an 8mm or 5/16 nut and try to thread it on the rod :)
    The one that fits is what you have. If you actually have a pitch gauge in your toolbox then use it and that will tell you as well.
     

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