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Unanswered Robo R1+ Issues (Leaning + LCD Contoller)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Hobbit, Jan 8, 2017.

  1. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    Filament type: PETG
    Extruding Temp: 247
    Bed Temp: 85
    Bed makeup: Glass w/ Hairspray

    Hi everyone,

    I've tired doing as much searching around as I could before I decided to write a post including my problems as I hoped to figure them out based on others problems.

    I believe that I have solved most of my issues but it seems that once one is solved, two more take it's place.

    1.
    My main issue I recently realized that I had a leaning issue along the y-axis(bed). It wasn't much but enough that it's noticeable on larger prints. My belt on the bed seems pretty tight and I removed the motor from below and tightened the set screws as well.

    Here is a barrel I just printed last night to show the lean (The front piece snapped off so I glued it back on, just look at the larger barrel):

    Is this enough to go on? I can take more photos I just need to know what to take the photos of.

    2.
    My second issue is I purchased the Smart LCD Controller XXL from: PrintedSolid and once I had it installed and working, any print job I try to run on it fails before it starts. The bed heats up and then the nozzle heats up but then the temp for the nozzle is set to 0 and the temp just drops forever never starting the print.

    Example here:

    Thanks for any and all help with this. I'd love to get everything working!

    Ian
     

    Attached Files:

    #1 Hobbit, Jan 8, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2017
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hello and welcome to the forum

    1. Did the lean happen all the sudden? Or always been there ? Have you done a paper leveling?

    2. What slicer are you using to put the gcode on the sd card ? Have you tried another program?
     
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  3. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    I'm unsure if the lean was always there or if it's new. These are some of the first prints that I did that had any real height to the models. I haven't done a paper leveling because I thought that if the Robo had auto level I wouldn't need to. Am I incorrect? I can to a paper level based on youtube videos but they all show beds that don't auto level.

    I have used S3D before getting the LCD and used that same files on both. So they file works file with the printer connected and off of the LCD screen the fails to start.

     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sadly, yes.

    If the X is not fairly level then the autoleveling the firmware does will not work.
     
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  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    So lets be 100% accurate. Auto-leveling (actually auto-traming) works well if your bed is only off along one axis. So a lean is taken care of. Sadly almost every printer in the world that has a bed that is out of level, is so in more than one axis. The newest version of Marlin (version 1.1.0), which is not what Robo uses on any of the R1 firmwares (all Marlin 1.0.0) has a setting for Bilinear auto-leveling which can account for warped beds. Anyone using the Robo for a while knows that in order to get the best out of auto-level you need the bed to be pretty close to mechanically level also.

    Please note this is not Robo's fault, as all printers that implemented Marlin 1.0.0 auto-level behave this way in one manner or another.
     
    #5 WheresWaldo, Jan 10, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2017
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  6. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    How would I go about leveling the y axis(bed)? That is the axis that has leaning. I will try the paper leveling trick when I'm off work tonight. Thank you again for your help so far.

    Ian
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Under the bed are rails
    Under the rails are bearing blocks (one on each rail) you can shim under the bearing blocks.
     
  8. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    I'm struggling with the mattercontrol software and trying to get a paper level test done.

    This is what my readout is with I m29:
    <-Bed x: 15.00 y: 20.00 z: 0.06
    <-Bed x: 110.00 y: 20.00 z: 0.19
    <-Bed x: 205.00 y: 20.00 z: -0.12
    <-Bed x: 205.00 y: 125.00 z: -0.37
    <-Bed x: 110.00 y: 125.00 z: 0.01
    <-Bed x: 15.00 y: 125.00 z: -0.27
    <-Bed x: 15.00 y: 230.00 z: 0.08
    <-Bed x: 110.00 y: 230.00 z: 0.42
    <-Bed x: 205.00 y: 230.00 z: 0.39
    <-Eqn coefficients: a: 0.00 b: 0.00 d: -0.11
    <-planeNormal x: -0.00 y: -0.00 z: 1.00
    <-X:205.00 Y:230.00 Z:-0.70 E:0.00 Count X: 205.00 Y:230.00 Z:-0.41
    <-ok
    <-echo:endstops hit: Z:0.39

    It seems the plate is all out of wack in the z but I can't really understand how the z can go 0.06, -0.27, then 0.08 all on the same x?
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Warp
    Which is why the Marlin 1.0.0 Auto-level is inadequate and paper leveling is a must to insure a good first layer.
     
  10. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    So my glass bed is warped? What do I do? How can I level a warped bed? Should I update my firmware?
     
    #10 Hobbit, Jan 10, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2017
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Almost all glass is warped. it is the nature in which glass is made into sheets (or panes) usually you just forget about it and soldier on. For most people the warp is so insignificant that it barely makes a difference. Just shim the bed under the magnets until the bed is equidistant from the X axis in the four corners and you will probably be good to go. This is a good thing to do even if you decide to update the firmware. Once you know your printer is mechanically 'level' then auto-leveling will work better.

    All the R1 printers use Robo firmware based on Marlin version 1.0.0. If you choose to upgrade the Robo supplied Marlin firmware to the latest version (that's Marlin version 1.1.0 not the Robo versions -- no matter what they number it). make sure you are acquainted with the feature set and on how to compile it yourself and upload it to the Robo.

    In short, no matter what you decide, just do the paper level.
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    But not very much in practical terms (at least for a sheet of glass) look at the numbers (they are in mm) so way less than 1/2 of a mm and less than a tenth for many... That is pretty flat for glass.
     
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  13. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    Ok I have updated the firmware to the RCBF for the R1+. I still have the issue of when I start a print via the LCD the bed heats up, the nozzle heats up, then the print starts up the nozzle temp is set to 0 and slowing falls. Still S3D but I'm open to try another if you guys think it's the slicer.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    More likely an error. If you do not have a PC hooked up you won't be able to see the error.
    If you DO have the PC hooked up, scroll back through the GCode terminal looking for errors.
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    What exactly is the start up script in S3D, please copy and paste here.
     
  16. Hobbit

    Hobbit New Member

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    This is what I have in the start up script:

    G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
    M109 S[temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait
    G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Home Z again in case there was filament on nozzle
    G29 ; probe the bed
    M201 X1000 Y1000; // max accel print
     
  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    no Z offset?
     
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is wrong for Simplify.

    I think it should be:

    M109 S[extruder0_temperature];

    Most slicers use slightly different syntax for variables.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Although your example would explain why it is going to zero ...
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is an excellent point as well :)

    You need an M565 in there...

    M565 Z-1.0 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism

    right before the G29
     

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