Unanswered Robo R1+ Issues (Leaning + LCD Contoller)

You are using S3D correct?
If so then the line to set temperature is redundant, because in the temperature tab you check the box that says "Wait for temperature controller to stabilize before beginning build". Your script runs after the temp commands that S3D inserts and before the actual print So when you used the line

Code:

M109 S[temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait

Since S3D has no idea what [temperature] is it resets to 0°. If you insist on putting your own temperature control in the startup script you must use the variable [extruder0_temperature] or else S3D has no clue. Although completely unnecessary the actual line should read

Code:

M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait

 

Wow we all answered this at the same time.

 

right! almost creepy

 

Just in case you need to script something with a variable in S3D this link might come in handy:
https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1959&p=7574

 

yes, that Z-1.0 is a starting point. If your to far from the bed use a smaller number Z-.9 for example. and tweak until you get the perfect first layer your after

test print

 

Again different slicers have different ways to accomplish this, but the M565 is a standard way and easy to see if you look at the GCode. I personally prefer it. It is not slicer dependent.

 

Just a small point, there is no longer any need to issue a G28 followed by all the axes, unless you want to home 2 or less.

Code:

G28 X0 Y0 Z0

can be replaced with simply

Code:

G28

 

pictures too please, perferably of that first layer

 

yep that was a good call. Keep testing to get that perfect first layer

 

One of mine uses -0.9 and the other -0.6

Yours will be whatever it is for a perfect first layer

 

This is a perfect first layer:

https://printedsolid.com/blogs/news/37035715-get-your-prints-to-stick-check-your-skirt

 

No let it home in the middle. Its normal

 

25 point mesh level? A layer shift is more often than not a loose component or something getting cought. If it happens on the y, lift the bed and move the rails back and forth see if anything is binding (like the wiring). If not check belt tension and make sure the two set screws on the timing pulley are tight.

 

Also double check that the undersized fan on the bottom of your Robo is running 100% of the time while on. Overheating the arduino can cause 'missed' steps that can manifest itself in various defects.

And @Geof I also use a 25 point MESH I started with 16 but have a warp in one particular area of my glass bed that was missed in 16 points. But that will all change soon as Midwest Steel and Aluminum has shipped my new aluminum plate.