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Robo R2 Black/Grey Screen

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Mortal798, Oct 27, 2020.

  1. Mortal798

    Mortal798 New Member

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    Ok, here is the story:

    I purchased two R2 printers back in 2017. One has always worked flawlessly, one has been nothing but a PIA since day one. I started getting a "connection error - see terminal tab" error on boot up. Contacted support and have done the following:

    - Replaced the MicroSD with a new one, and a fresh load of the OS. No change, error still present at boot up.

    - Checked/replaced/swapped all of the cables between the rasPi, mainboard, and touchscreen. No change, error still present at boot up.

    - Replaced pogo pin board under print bed. No change.

    - Was asked to again load the OS. No change.

    - Was asked to check all of the cables again. Now it is worse - the screen powers on and just stays grey/black.

    - Did the UNTHINKABLE. Took apart the flawlessly working R2 and swapped the rasPi, microSD, USB cables, and HDMI cable into the good unit. It boots and operates with the rasPi and cables from the bad unit.

    This leaves me with either the mainboard or the touchscreen. I would like to just buy both and get this printer operational again. Does anyone know if the mainboard form the C2 is the same? The pics on partsbuilt3D.com of the C2 mainboard look EXACTLY like my R2 board, but I suppose it could just be a stock photo.

    Anyone have any advice for me? I am at my wits end with this thing and just want it running.

    Thanks!
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The C2 mainboard is pretty much the same, but if you are leery of it or want to make a real change, PartsBuilt has a kit that will allow you to swap in the electronics used in the R1 series (an Arduino Mega and a RAMPS 1.4 board)

    @Lance Weston helped them develop that kit so I will let him comment on that.

    The LCD varies slightly based on which type you have installed -- some were HDMI screens on the Raspberry Pi and some were GPIO screens on the Raspberry Pi. If you can see which type yours is we can point you to them on Amazon -- seems like they were less than $30 if memory serves. I have replaced on on my C2, the R2 uses a slightly larger one (5 inch versus 3.5 inch)
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    In your shoes I'd probably just get the replacement C2 board and a new LCD (because those die too...)
     
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  4. Mortal798

    Mortal798 New Member

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    It is an HDMI rasPi 3b.

    I emailed Jonah at partsbuilt and he said he is working on them. I will order next week and then update you guys after I get the parts installed.

    Thanks for the help!
     
  5. Mortal798

    Mortal798 New Member

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    Oops. Looks like I posted this in the R1 forum. Sorry - I don't know if you can move it or not...
     
  6. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Just for the sake of completeness, please try swapping the power supply between the printers and see if the flawless working printer continues working flawlessly. Alternately, see if swapping the power supply fixes the broken printer.
     
  7. Mortal798

    Mortal798 New Member

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    Swapped. No change.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It was a bit if a reach, the problem is still most certainly in the controller and/or the LCD.
    The LCD is a prime suspect, but so is the controller.
     
  9. Mortal798

    Mortal798 New Member

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    Yeah, I am going to get both once the board is available, and start with the touch screen to see if my original board is still good. Then install Jonah's new board once the new screen is installed. Either way, at this point I am buying both new parts.
     
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  10. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Power supplies can develop a major noise problem ( a rare type of problem ). At least now you know, for certain, where the problem is.
     
  11. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I had two problems that could cause that. The flat ribbon cables going to the LCD are a pain. The Larger cable can slowly vibrate off and should be re-seated. It first goes intermittent causing flakey. The smaller ribbon cable has a sharp bend and also goes flakey. Partsbuilt.com has a replacement for the smaller ribbon cable and an STL file to print that will remove the sharp bend. It is a pain though getting the box apart without damaging the LCD, so I would have a spare.
     

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