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Robo R2 First Print – The Good, the Bad, and the Funny

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Ed Ferguson, Jun 1, 2017.

  1. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Received my Robo R2 today ($1,000 early backer on Kickstarter).

    For background, I’ve been using my son’s Robo R1+ extensively for 8 months.

    The Good:

    Packaging is great. Nothing moved out of place. Note: When removing the orange plastic retainers that hold the axis shafts in place, don’t pull them straight off. Instead lean them over and they come off easily.

    The printer is sturdy & well made. The advancement in design & quality over the R1+ is very apparent. Came with some tools and small spool of blue PLA. Unlike the C2, no build sheets for the bed as it is heated. Less noise than the R1. A stylus is provided for the touch screen. I’d say 90% touch success just using my finger.

    The Bad:

    On my first attempt to load filament, the knurled wheel popped off the extruder shaft. It’s secured to a flat on the shaft with a set screw. Fortunately the correct allen wrench was in the tool kit. I fed in some filament by hand to self-align the knurled wheel, then tightened. No big deal for me, but a first time user might have been looking for help.

    The Funny:

    Once the extruder was fixed I ran the Wizard to load the filament. But just prior, I pulled off the protective plastic film from the R2 side windows. Of course this built up quite a static charge. As soon as the Wizard ran, extruded filament flew horizontally and stuck to the side window like spaghetti against a wall! After letting it cool, it pulled right off with no damage to the window. The orange filament is left over from factory testing.

    Set Up:

    Ran the Offset Wizard which has you adjust Z against a sliding piece of paper. My offset was -8.4.

    First Print:

    Printed one of the test files from Robo. As you can see in the photo, the raft is very stringy and I could see the nozzle was about 0.015” above the bed as the raft printed. I’ve never seen this behavior on the R1 and don’t know if the on-board slicer does this, or if I have an offset issue. I need to do some testing and check with Robo. Once the raft printed, the rest of the print looked normal.

    Results:

    I’m happy with the results of the first print. No pimples or strings. Part came off the bed easily. I will try an output from my Windows copy of Cura and compare.

    Final Thoughts:

    I think I’m going to be really happy with the R2. The build quality is great and everyone should take a look when they show up in stores. I really don’t think I’m going to have to mod or tweak this printer. I’d rather spend my time tweaking the parts I make, and not the machine that makes the parts.

    I’ll post more prints as I progress through the learning curve.
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. pclabtech

    pclabtech Active Member

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    Apparently you didn't watch my video :)

    One of the things I mentioned was to pull sideways on the orange retention clips as they don't pull upward.

    Congrats on your first prints!
     
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  3. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Thanks. Can you tell me if my raft looks normal?
     
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can tweak the Z offset to dial in your first layer as tight as you want. The Z offset wizard helps get it close, but I found I got better results after a little adjusting.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Your raft looks normal -- you might try tweaking the Z a little bit, but the way it does rafting that is about par for the course.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Jun 1, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2017
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  6. pclabtech

    pclabtech Active Member

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    Yes, yes it does... look at the picture on my instagram page

    Https://www.instagram.com/pclabtech

    Looks just like yours.
     
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  7. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    This is actually a problem on any machinery with actual electronics and computer circuitry in them. It won't kill the mainboards unless a truly magnificent charge builds up, but anything that's enough to "pop" when it grounds out can cause the board to reset (or will at the very least interrupt whatever program is running).

    Assuming a static charge is actually what happened here and not some other phenomena.
     
  8. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Thanks everyone - good to know. I just never saw a raft like that using the R1+ and Cura. Guess I'm good to go and I'll move on to more complex models.
     
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  9. Ed Ferguson

    Ed Ferguson Active Member

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    Well, if it wasn't the static charge from ripping off the plastic window film then I need to call Ghost Busters.
     
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