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RoBo3D Autolevel via Mike Kelly

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Jun 1, 2014.

  1. Voyager1

    Voyager1 New Member

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    Hey Mike - how do I know if I'm on metric rods or not??
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You would only be on metric if you replaced them.
     
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  3. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Would using a Hall effect sensors instead of switches improve the accuracy? A Hall effect sensor attached to each end of the x carriage with the magnet attached to a arm from the coupler nut?

    Just wanted to throw it out there. Thoughts?
     
  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That could definitely work.
     
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  5. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    If you have a layer height of 0.1mm say, then the first layer needs to be "levelled" to much better than 0.1mm. How much better though? Probably to around a tenth or +/- 0.01mm. Anything much less than that and the first layer will not look uniform.
     
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Why does a perfectly uniform first layer matter? If that's such a concern you probably should use a raft.

    The point of the first layer is to get adhesion, the autolevel eases that.
     
  7. Ziggy

    Ziggy Moderator
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    Mike,

    I think even from an adhesion point of view the first layer needs to be "leveled" to much better than 0.1mm variation (ie paper thickness). Auto leveling should be capable of achieving that.

    But that's just my view. It would be useful to determine what is the max variation in the first layer height which is "acceptable" in practice. I know that Tesseract has some views on this and some pics of good quality first layers. And of course his analoq technology self leveling works a treat http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:125626
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    You could try it with your setup by artificially inducing an offset w/ tape on a probe point.

    I'm not sure what precision this auto-level method achieves. I'd assume the variation is minimal as large prints have a nice consistent first layer for me. Not sure what else to tell you other than "If it works, don't question it"
     
  9. Greg Knapp

    Greg Knapp Member

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    Here is a $64000 question .. where on the board do you plug it in? in the old Z endstop place?
     
  10. AxisLab

    AxisLab Well-Known Member

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    For 64k I will personally fly out there and install it for you. All while singing the TV theme song of your choice.
    Oh and, yes to the old Z spot.
    Although, I've heard the Z spot is very hard to find, some say it is a myth but if you dig around down there enough, you may just find it.
     
    #30 AxisLab, Jul 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 11, 2014
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  11. Peter Krska

    Peter Krska Active Member

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    I'll do it for $50k


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk in Canada
     
  12. collin

    collin New Member

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  13. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    The same spot as the Z min endstop.
     
  14. collin

    collin New Member

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    oh duh it replaces it all together.. ha ha
     
  15. collin

    collin New Member

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    omg i just realized you answered the question i asked like 4 comments up.... im "that guy"
     
  16. collin

    collin New Member

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    which file do you flash to the robo? the autolvl or the marlin? there are two sets of code in that folder
     
  17. Billm

    Billm Member

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    i am still waiting for my y axis upgrade. can I add the auto leveling upgrade as well?
    order 2408
     
  18. collin

    collin New Member

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    also i dont understand what everything under "modify the g code" means could explain that to me like im five :p

    @Mike Kelly

    @tesseract
     
    #38 collin, Jul 27, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 28, 2014
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Under your slicer settings there should be a custom G-code that it runs at the start of the print.
     
  20. collin

    collin New Member

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    ohhhh ok i thought maybe you had to input this every time you slice.
     

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