1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Answered Robo3D R1 Bed wont start heating

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Barry Steenbergh, Feb 7, 2017.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Page 2 of 2
  1. Barry Steenbergh

    Barry Steenbergh New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2017
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    4
    Mark... Hmmmmm. Well that explains a LOT of my frustrations then... :) I was really just hoping to get my feet wet on printing anyhow with this one. I wouldn't be opposed to upgrading, but I may be more inclined to just buy a bigger/better/newer version depending on how much it would cost to get this one updated... Can anyone tell me how to get it to print using MatterControl? It doesn't seem to want to do anything unless the bed is up to temp...? Also, did I hurt anything by replacing the Ramps board with a new 1.4 version I bought? The one I removed looked identical to my new one other than it was white and my new a fancy red hue. Thanks! I think I may be getting closer to being able to print something!! :)

    --Barry
     
    #21 Barry Steenbergh, Feb 26, 2017
  2. Barry Steenbergh

    Barry Steenbergh New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2017
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    4
    Geof, Yeah, a bummer on the non-heated bed, but if I can still do some rudimentary prints with it I will be happy for now. --Barry
     
    #22 Barry Steenbergh, Feb 26, 2017
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Aorry my friend that sucks but in all honesty I've been looking for a beta like yours lol. Set bed temp to 0 and try to print
     
    #23 Geof, Feb 26, 2017
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Well, it was (slightly) cheaper and there are a lot of filaments you can still print. The real horror story of the beta is the way the bed is mounted to the "drawer" slide rails... yuck. DO the linear rail upgrade first...


    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:386602
     
    #24 mark tomlinson, Feb 26, 2017
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    There are a LOT of things and different materials you can print without a heated bed. You can also coat the bed you have with PEI (it sticks on like a decal) and then print on that and it works just fine (in fact they sell small sheets of it for the new C2 which also has no heated bed).
     
    #25 mark tomlinson, Feb 26, 2017
  6. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2016
    Messages:
    544
    Likes Received:
    280
    In Matter Control there is a nozzle temp and bed temp setting. Try putting the bed temp at 0.0 and maybe you can print.
    PLA doesn't require a heated bed by the way.
     
    #26 Rigmarol, Feb 27, 2017
    Tom Finzel likes this.
  7. Barry Steenbergh

    Barry Steenbergh New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2017
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    4
    Thanks, Rigmarol. That got it to go through the motions of printing. :) I'm still not sure it is working correctly though... It doesn't seem to be moving up along the Z-axis... Sigh. Anyone want to buy a 3D printer? :( I can see the motors for the Z-axis spin, but it doesn't actually move the printhead vertically. If I manually try I can lift the printhead, but it just slides all the way back down to rest on the print bed.
     
    #27 Barry Steenbergh, Feb 27, 2017
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Your right, that's not right. Are the z motors plugged in ?
     
    #28 Geof, Feb 27, 2017
  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    On you picture it almost looks like they arnt seated on the pins correctly, are the screws on the couplers tight ?
     
    #29 Geof, Feb 27, 2017
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Do the threaded rods turn when the motors run?


    Sent from my BNTV450 using Tapatalk
     
    #30 mark tomlinson, Feb 27, 2017
  11. Barry Steenbergh

    Barry Steenbergh New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2017
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    4
    The threaded rods turn, but they don't seem to be connected to anything on the printhead. They wobble back and forth.
     
    #31 Barry Steenbergh, Feb 27, 2017
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,757
    Likes Received:
    2,339
    Hi Barry,
    Will you please attach some photos? I'm pretty sure I understand what your saying but would really need to see if to be sure. If you could please attach a photo where the threaded rod connects to the X axis?
     
    #32 Geof, Feb 28, 2017
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    The threaded rods are connected to the motor shaft at the bottom and to a threaded nut where it goes through the X crossbar. That nut (one on each rod) is what lets it raise and lower the crossbar. Is the nut not in place (inside the socket on the crossbar on both sides)?

    Like @Geof indicated -- pictures please.
     
    #33 mark tomlinson, Feb 28, 2017
  14. Barry Steenbergh

    Barry Steenbergh New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2017
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    4
    Ok. You guys seriously rock! That was definitely my issue. The nut wasn't in the crossbar, they were sitting at the bottom of the threaded rod. So I spun them up the threaded rod a ways, inserted them into the crossbar. Ensured it was as level as I could get it and voila! The printhead will move along the Z-axis!!! :) It was working so well I even tried a print. Photo attached. GREAT troubleshooting even from my lame typed descriptions. So now I think I have but a couple issues remaining. As the printer moved up and down the z-axis the nuts started to work themselves out of the crossbar. Eventually one side ended up below the crossbar while the other was still inserted. Am I still missing something somewhere? Also, I am using the original spool of PLA that came with the printer. The lady I bought it from said she only made 4 prints with it the whole time she had it. So I suspect I need some fresh PLA...

    Anyhow, REALLY happy to see some life from this little guy. I think we are getting really REALLY close!! :)

    --Barry
     

    Attached Files:

    #34 Barry Steenbergh, Mar 1, 2017
    Geof likes this.
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Start with lubricating the Z rods a bit.

    If that does not sort it out...

    Do you have the R1 or the R1+? (take a picture of the threaded rod where it goes into the bed of the printer and upload that and we can tell you)

    The R1 used a single stepper driver for both Z motors, the R1+ uses one for each.

    While either approach is fine, in the case of the R1+ it is possible for the two stepper drivers to not be supplying the same driver current to the steppers and one stepper might be dropping steps.

    If this is an R1 then that is moot since it is the same stepper driver for both. You can try tweaking the stepper driver in that case too, it won't hurt. Details on the stepper current adjust over here: http://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/Tuning+Motor+Current/37

    So R1+ perhaps just the stepper driver needs tweaking, R1 one of the steppers may be shot or going bad.
     
    #35 mark tomlinson, Mar 2, 2017
  16. Barry Steenbergh

    Barry Steenbergh New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2017
    Messages:
    27
    Likes Received:
    4
    Hey Mark,
    Nope...turns out I lied from the get-go... I have a Robo3d Beta. (In my defense it was sold to me as an R1.. :-/ ) Can you recommend a Z rod lubricant? Suspect something thicker than WD-40 and thinner than axle grease? Also, since I am getting VERY close to being able to print stuff... It was recommended that I add a PEI layer especially since my beta has no bed heater... Does this seem like a good choice? https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-..._3?ie=UTF8&qid=1488572344&sr=8-3&keywords=pei

    As Bartles and James would say... "Thanks for your support." --Barry
     
    #36 Barry Steenbergh, Mar 3, 2017
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    I use lithium grease. White lithium grease.

    That PEI looks fine.

    As far as the original issue the Beta uses a single stepper drive like the R1. Identical electronics to the R1 as well.
     
    #37 mark tomlinson, Mar 3, 2017
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    When you do get to the point you are printing you should print all of the bits to upgrade the bed to the new linear rods. Then buy some linear rods and LM8UU bearings and GLASS plate and magnets and you will essentially have an R1. Even add a bed heater fairly cheap too. For well under $100 you should be able to convert it up if you want :) I have done a couple, makes for a much better printer with autoleveling and the other enhancements.
     
    #38 mark tomlinson, Mar 3, 2017
    Tom Finzel likes this.
Page 2 of 2
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page