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Solved Robo3d R1 heated bed going up during print

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Michael Goodhue, Mar 26, 2017.

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  1. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    Guys,

    I'm running into a bit of a wierd problem with my Robo3d R1. I have the Robo3d R1 with the 5/16" rods, at least I think they are the 5/16"s.

    I updated the firmware to the R1+ Firmware v2, then I realized that I don't have the R1 + because I have the blue lights instead of the white. So I loaded a new firmware, the R1 with 8mm rods. That lead me to a problem doing large movements with the Z axis. If I job them 1mm at a time it worked just fine, but as soon as I'd try and move them 10mm they'd move about 3 then the motors would make a loud humming sound.

    I finally ended up trying the R1 firmware for 5/16" rods and now I can move up and down with no problems with small movements and large and I am able to home my axis.

    Time for a test print. I printed a small y belt holder and 1/2 through the print the heated bed reached max temp of 111 and the print failed.

    I'm using Simplify3d and if I go and turn on the heated bed to 60 it will stay there with no issues, bouncing between 59 and 61/62. As soon as I start a print however the temp starts going up and up and up.

    I'm trying to print PLA with an E3D hot end using 1.75mm filament. The firmware is stock R1 firmware for 5/16" rods with the exception of uncommenting the line for the LCD display and changings the #33 and 31 pins in the pins.h file to make the dial on the LCD work as expected.

    What would cause my hot end to only go up during a print?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So a Beta then :) The R1 has 8mm rods.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    How many Z axis home switches do you have?

    1-> beta
    2-> R1

    This is why new firmware can be a challenge. If you load the R1 firmware on the beta it will not work correctly...
     
  4. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    To be honest I'm not sure. I got it used other than rod size is there any way to know which version I have? 8mm and 5/16"s are both .31"
     
  5. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    I have one on each z-axis rod, so 2.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, then you have an R1, not the + and you have 8mm rods I bet.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What is in the startup GCode block for the process?
     
  8. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    G28 ; home all axes
    M565 Z-.68; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
    G29 ; run auto-level
    G1 Z5 F15000 ; lift Z by 15mm
    M300 S440 P200 ;A4: 440
    G0 Z5
     
  9. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    Like I said in my original post I tried the R1 8mm firmware and had issues moving the z axis over large movements, and with the 5/16" firmware that issue doesn't exist now. That's why I thought I had 5/16" rods.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is remotely possible you have 5/16 rods as there were a few early R1 units that had those, but they are -- rare.
    Make sure your Z axis movements are correct and repeatable -- 10mm up goes 10mm.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Assuming the process file you are using is NOT configured to go to 111 C for the bed temp then ...

    There is nothing odd in the startup code so you are looking at likely a bad board (ramps most likely, but Arduino possible).

    Sanity check the process to make sure you are not driving the bed temp that high with the process settings.
     
  12. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    This all happened because I just installed both a new arduino and ramps board. What bothers me is that as long as I'm not printing and have the heated bed on it will hold 60 all day long. It's when printing starts that it goes nuts. You mentioned that I most likely have 8mm rods. That was my first guess too but when I tried the 8mm rod firmware I had issues with large movements. I could jog 1mm at a time all day long up and down, but as soon as I try to move 10mm at once it wouldn't. Don't seem to have that issue with the 5/16's firmware though. As i said I've measure the rod and it's .31" but that's what 8mm is and 5/16 as a decimal. how can I tell what I really have ?
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Tell the Z to go up 100 mm and see how far it goes :)

    The Z steps are different for the 5.16 and 8 mm rods so if you have the wrong Z steps it will NOT go 100 mm.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I just got two brand new RAMPS cards, one of which was malfunctioning so .. .do not assume a new board is a good board.

    As for why it matters only when printing -- sanity check with another host program (not Simplify3d) to see if you have something incorrect in the process for Simplify3D. If it behaves with the other software you nailed it.

    If it IS a bad board it is more likely to have issues when printing since the RAMPS handles all of the motors and heaters so when doing all of them there is more load on the board.

    Just take it step-by-step and you can sort out where the fault is.
     
  15. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    Ok I just jog Z up 100mm and after I measured it the actual movement distance was 88mm, guess that means I have 8mm rods after all? So I'm guess my next step is to install the 8mm firmware and see what happens?
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, at some point you want to fix your Z Steps :) The Beta (5/16 rods) has them at 2267.72 and the R1 (8mm rods) at 2560 so...
    you can see that if you use the wrong one your Z will be off by 15% or so one way or the other.

    P.S. that is really the only effective difference between the two printers firmware as well ... sometimes versions of the R1 had lower limits for bed temperatures, but really the main difference is the Z steps.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You could just modify this one line and reload the firmware you have:

    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2267.72,723.38} // default steps per unit for RoBo 3D BEta

    to

    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2560,723.38} // default steps per unit for RoBo 3D R1
     
  18. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    OK so here's where I'm at now. I've reinstalled the 8mm firmware and the probblem I was having doing large movements is still persisting. While working through this problem yesterday I tuned all my stepper drivers, even replaced the z stepper with 2 known good ones and still have the issue.

    If I put the 5/16th firmware back on and change the z steps from 2267.73 to 2560 should that make it correct?

    PS - Thanks for all your help so far. I've been working on this printer since I got it and I just really want to get to printing
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That will absolutely make the Z travel match the rods you have :)
     
  20. Michael Goodhue

    Michael Goodhue New Member

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    Ok I've gone back to the 5/16" firmware and made the change to the z axis steps but now I'm running into the problem that when I jog 10mm or 100mm that the stepper motor doesn't spin correctly. I can jog 1mm at a time all day up and down. Also it's not consistent with the 10mm jogs, every now and then it works, but I'd say 90% of the time it doesn't. And a 100mm job never finishes.

    At the point when it "binds" I'm able to manually give it a push and it continues on it's way until it binds again at least.

    Any suggestions?
     
    #20 Michael Goodhue, Mar 26, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2017
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