1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Answered Robo3D R1 multiple issues

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Sorin Mihai, Apr 26, 2018.

  1. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    E3D V6.jpg extruder side.jpg Z endstop.jpg y endstop.jpg x endstop.jpg left Z rods.jpg R1.jpg Hello to the entire Robo community.
    I have a R1 since 2016. It was working fine (more or less) with MC and Cura. The printing quality was not always the best but it was functioning correctly. That until I decided to upgrade the hotend to an E3D V6 and also to the latest firmware, Merlin. After uploading the ABL R1 111, it started to not function properly and the reason for that is that I don't know exactly what settings I should do (what to comment or not).
    First let me describe what printer I think I have:
    -ROBO3D R1
    -extruder/hotend E3D V6
    -Z rods - 5/16'' (thank you @mark tomlinson)
    -endstop switch - one for each axis
    -heated bed
    -no LCD
    and I think that is all I know about my R1. I will put some images with my printer and in case you need more detailed pictures, let me know and I will.
    After the update of the Merlin, X and Y homing are ok, but for Z is not going down to the endstop switch. Instead, after each home Z command, goes up with 3 mm and set that position as a start point. The issue is that I can't take it down anymore
    My big request to the entire community: can you help me make it work again? For that I need a few informations:
    -what release of Merlin can I use for my R1 -Solved
    -because I don't have a LCD what I should comment out or to uncomment - Solved
    -can I keep the Auto Bed Leveling Bi-linear without a LCD and no additional probes - Solved
    -how to do an ABL from MC - Solved
    -how can I check / find out what Z offset I should set - Solved

    I can't think now at other things that I should do, but you are more then welcome to mention whatever I should do.

    A big thank you!
     
    #1 Sorin Mihai, Apr 26, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2018
  2. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    I knew that I forgot something: the bed is heating really slow and sometimes I get a error and is not heating at all.
    A good news is that I found where to fix the Z homing movement up instead of down towards the switch.

    427 // Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
    428 #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
    #define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
    #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. --BH
    #define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
    #define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
    #define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
    434 #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the probe. --BH

    On line 430 and 434 I made them false instead of true. Now the Z movement is ok. I also made a physically bed levelling, more exactly I added washers under the bed, with different thicknesses, and now the bed is parallel with the X axis at a very good level. In a grid with 9 points I have the same distance from the nozzle to the bed, a business card, :)).
     
  3. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    Good morning, sorted with bed heating, my bed temp sensor was loose, put it back and works fine. PID values check again for consistency.
    Thanks!
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Just FYI: you have a beta officially, not an R1 :)
    You have the single Z switch on the threaded rod near the bed.
    Just so you know what you have, it makes a difference electrically and mechanically.

    Since it has the newer bed it is either a late model (post-kickstarter) beta or one that has had the bed upgrade done.
     
    Sorin Mihai likes this.
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    If you switch it to use the two z switches on the crossbar (like the R1 and R1+ have) you can use autoleveling.
    While you can turn on autoleveling with your current configuration it will not really work since that Z switch is NOT tripped by the extruder probing the bed so it can not actually use that approach.
     
  6. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    Thank Mark for the light and the fog :)). You mean to mount 2 switches on the crossbar? And if I have a beta... can I upgrade it to a R1 or R1+? What release of Marlin can I flash?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    This has the details for converting to use the autoleveling hardware if you want:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349935

    I have done this on several beta machines. I still have two, one with the newer R1 style bed (like yours) and one with the original drawer rails style wooden bed.

    You can use ANY version of Marlin you want, but the beta needs to have a way to actually probe the bed for most of the autoleveling to work. The beta Z switch can't sense the bed. It is mechanically tied to the Z rod so that it knows when the carriage is at a certain height. It does not know when the extruder is on the bed.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    With the switches relocated like the ones in that link when the nozzle pushes against the bed then carriage will start to lift and the Z switches will trip and this is what the firmware will use to know where the bed physically is.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    The differences between the beta and the R1 was the R1 had the fancy glass bed like yours. Also the beta had 5/16 threaded rods where the R1 had 8mm threaded rods (so the Z steps were different). Also the beta originally had a J-Head style hotend (with a PEEK liner and an upper temperature limit of 245c). The R1 came with the Hexagon hotend (all metal). The R1+ changed to leadscrews rather than threaded rods (so the Z steps changed again)
     
  10. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    Thanks Mark for your precious informations and tips. I will start upgrading the printer. Can you recommend a model number for the switches or/and other parts to order?
    Also, I have been playing with Marlin Mash 1.1.1, with different Z offsets values and I have these results: test 1.jpg test 2.jpg
    test Z -2.jpg test1 Z-1.7.jpg test 2 Z-1.7.jpg test 3 Z-.1.7.jpg test Z-1.9.jpg test Z-1.9 1.jpg
    Printing of the first layer is getting better with each trial, till now the best Z offset is -1.9. From what I have noticed, I have to issues:
    1- after probing the bed, when it should lower the hotend to the offseted value, sometimes the stepper motor jams and it makes a funny noise and is not positioning at the correct value, not always but in 50% of the cases, and that leads to bad first layer.
    2- as you can see in the images, especially the last 2 with Z -1.9, the perimeter is printed ok, but the infill is bad, meaning that looks like the tip of the hotend is collecting material from the nearby and makes those .... warps/small mountains... it may be because I have a too high speed for extrusion? - Unsolved
    This is my Start G-Code:
    G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
    M109 S[temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait
    G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Home Z again in case there was filament on nozzle
    M851 Z-1.9
    G29 ; probe the bed
     
    #10 Sorin Mihai, Apr 27, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2018
  11. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    I will try the Marlin 1.1.4 to see if I get improvements on positioning of the hotend. I'll be back!
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    The thingiverse link I posted has parts listed:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349935

    Parts List:
    2x 5/16"-18 Coupling (Or M8-1.25 Coupling for those on metric rods)
    2x Micro switch (1x in addition to the 1 on the Z axis)
    2x M3 - 25mm
    2x M3 Nuts
    4x M2-10mm (2x in addition to 2 securing Z switch)

    Printed Parts:
    RoBo 3D auto level switch mount (linked to that thingiverse item)

    Print two of those switch mounts before you start tearing the printer apart and you will be fine.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Without autoleveling the Z offset is pointless. It is really a "Z offset from wherever your one Z switch is located" Not a Z offset from the bed or even an actual usable Z offset for autoleveling. All you can do with that configuration is manual level the bed as best you can. For example when autoleveling does the 9-point sampling it is not really sampling 9 points on the bed in your case -- it is just sampling the same switch at the same location 9 times :)

    Manually adjusting the bed position (since you can't adjust the nozzle position) at the corners is all you can do.

    In fact your startup could be as simple as :

    G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; home all axes

    and you will likely get the same results :)

    The Z offset you have specified there is just offsetting from the one switch position (which is not really attached to the bed or carriage)
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Apr 27, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
  14. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    Did as you said, printed the switches mounts, without M851 and G29 in the start G-code, just manual spinning of the rods. Personally I think that the result is much better. One issue still stands: why that warping/little mountains when I have the wright Z( and is only at infilling) like in this image:
    - Unsolved
    [​IMG]
    and here are the mounts:
     

    Attached Files:

    #14 Sorin Mihai, Apr 27, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2018
  15. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    Hi Mark, can you see the third image, I think the wiring one? I cant. can you send it to me or post it here?
    thank you!
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
  17. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    Thanks Mark, very helpful topic.
    I have ordered the micro switches, I have the rest apart the couplings.... and I can't find them in all UK. I will try to make some custom ones (isn't it weird, in Great Britain, the home of all imperial measurements, they don't use imperial sizes). Just in case I won't find any 5/16", what is your recommendation for changing the rods? M8 or TR8?
    Secondly, I have been printing small components just to check how is behaving the new Marlin 114 and all ok with the max 1/2 hour printing. When I tried to print the same small component in 8 copies in one go....... after 1.5 hours (and 2 hours till the finish) gave me a bed temp error MinTemp Error 3 times. Also at the beginning of one print first I got a temp error for the hotend and it was not preheating. What I have noticed is, in MC, in the control section, even if you are not printing, you can see the temps for bed and hotend. Now I can't see them anymore, I have 0.00 in both fields. This is, in my opinion, a firmware failure. What do you think?
     
  18. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    Hi, this is the error, and is weird cus the bed temp is actually at 60 as it should be and I still got the error. Please help! Capture.PNG
     
  19. Sorin Mihai

    Sorin Mihai New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2017
    Messages:
    25
    Likes Received:
    4
    OK, the temp error happened again before printing, 10 sec after I start the printing. All temp were ok. I will try the last release of Marlin.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Frankly I would go back to the stock version for your printer for now. You are changing too many variables at once :)
     

Share This Page