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Unresolved Robo3D R1 Plus Print Deformations

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Aaron Lunger, Oct 20, 2017.

  1. Aaron Lunger

    Aaron Lunger New Member

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    I replaced the RAMPS board recently, and it was working OK, but I recognized that my thermistor was going bad (getting 'burned' prints) and the temperature was definitely not staying where it should.

    I have ordered new thermistors from Robo3D and they are in the mail...however....while waiting for those to come I decided to just buy another Hexagon from Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8FL5BS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is the generally recommended hot end).
    I got this yesterday and installed it (used all the parts for the 'hotend' except the fans, I stuck with my originals). It didn't take long, but it doesn't appear to work very well.

    I don't have pictures on me, but the best I can describe is that the first 1/2 inch of the print (I'm printing an arrow head for a Hawkeye arrow) comes out deformed and it doesn't print correctly, parts of it aren't printed right at all....The best I can describe it is, it prints in total about half of the cylinder, 2 x 1/4's that are opposite of each other.
    HOWEVER, after about the first 1/2 inch, it prints perfectly fine and looks great and I would honestly have zero issues....if it wasn't for that first 1/2 inch.

    I'm using a RAFT, my filament is hatchbox PLA, and I've tried using temperatures from 190C up to 215C (this is normally what I used with my original hot end/thermistor). Bed temperature was 50C as per my norm for PLA. I've tried varying lots of other settings, ranging from the extrusion multiplier to print speed. I have not changed my Z offset since changing the hot end, however, I haven't been having issues with it sticking to the bed or jamming/clogging the extruder either.
    I've printed this model multiple times with my original hotend, and aside from knowing it was getting too hot (due to the thermistor), it printed just fine.
     
    #1 Aaron Lunger, Oct 20, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Post pictures when you can.
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Indeed. I cannot follow without a visual example. But thank you for giving us as much information as you have.

    a random guess without seeing the print would be z offset is off after changing the hotend and need to dail it in. When you are able to add photos please add one of your first layer as well
     
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  4. Aaron Lunger

    Aaron Lunger New Member

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    Unfortunately that will have to wait until this evening. I didn't take any of them before heading into work.

    Something just doesn't seem right. I don't understand how it could print the first 0.5" of the model poorly, and then print the on 1.5" of the model perfectly. It just doesn't make sense logically. And it's done this for 3 or 4 prints, the exact same way. If it was an issue with being a new hot end, or an issue with the filament, or even an oiling problem (which I did do), I would expect it to happen the same every time throughout the entire print instead of just at the very beginning.
     
  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    it sounds like a z offset issue. The 1st layer isn't great so really poopy printing :D then it "fixes" itself. Sort of like a support that falls over but comes back. again, guessing because I cant see what you are seeing.
     
  6. Aaron Lunger

    Aaron Lunger New Member

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    I guess my only comment on that regard, is that I'm using a RAFT and it prints the raft just fine. It even appears that the first layer or two are fine.

    Either way, when I get home tonight from work I'll take a picture of one of the models I printed.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    In some slicers the raft is not produced using the profile slicer settings. There are (essentially) hard settings it uses for the RAFT and the profiled slice settings begin with the actual first layer. So raft working doesn't rule out a slice issue :)

    It is more likely a mechanical issue than a slicer one if the layers at which it is happening are consistent and particularly if it happens with different models. If the issue is limited to one model then yes, slicer issue with that model (either a model that contains vector errors or something making the slicer goof up).
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    An actual printer issue will be consistent across models/slicers/etc. unless there is something specific that this slicer is doing do create a unique toolpath that has mechanical issues.
     
  9. Aaron Lunger

    Aaron Lunger New Member

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    15085328333451102943147.jpg
    As you can see, the bottom is pretty bad. But it gets better and looks fine (ignoring the very top....).

    I'm using matter control on standard settings, nothing funky outside of changing the temp for the PLA.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The very top is because you don't have enough cooling.

    You need to make sure your slicer is set to a minimum layer time that allows smaller layers to cool before the next one tries to come down on top of it.

    That may be your problem in the lower portion (can't tell what that is supposed to look like).
     
  11. Aaron Lunger

    Aaron Lunger New Member

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    I already have the minimum later time set to 30 seconds, up from 10. It doesn't seem to have any effect in matter control.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Then you either don't have your fans at 100% or you need more time.
     
  13. Aaron Lunger

    Aaron Lunger New Member

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    I guess my big problem is, that if the hot end is indeed the same, why can't I print with this one, but I'm willing to bet if I put the old one on, it would work fine with the new thermistor.

    To me, that makes zero sense.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is an assumption :)
    They are largely the exact same hotend for the most part.

    Other models do the same thing?

    I assume you bought the 12v model (that is what you linked to)
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Are you certain the thermistor is the right type ? Your temps may be reading wrong if it's not. If you think the other hotend will work, try it. If it does you may very well have a defective hotend
     
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  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Fwiw I would print a couple of those at the same time to ensure enough cooling time
     
  17. Aaron Lunger

    Aaron Lunger New Member

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    Did buy the 12v model.
    The part cooling fan didn't have much air flow.
    It was a Noctua 12v fan, so I just replaced it with a 5v version of the same fan. Much more air flow. (Yes, I know, 12v on a 5v fan, etc....) The print came out much better now. Not perfect, but close enough. Printed 4 or 5 more of them, and then this morning I started a 20 hour print. We will see how it goes.
     

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